Translate

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Another updated fav!!!

This is Anne. I decided that with all the beautiful designer fabrics out there, she needed a newer look.

Features fabrics by Riley Blake

My own hand painted yarn in the Hannah colorway.


All clothing can be removed for washing and she is stuffed with polyester fiber fill for an extra spongy feel.

Same great design, new look!

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

The Heavens opened up and the angels began to sing....

People often ask me, "why do you do it that way?" or "Wouldn't it be easier if.....?" And my answer is always something like "Because that is the way I learned it first." So let me ask all of you out there, isn't that how it often is where your knitting is concerned? I mean, don't we tackle the challenge of learning a technique and stick with it because we initially put so much effort into learning it in the first place?

Guess what folks! We don't have to. I came across the a new cast on technique at Knitty.com today. And that was when the Heavens opened up and the angels began to sing. I have posted the link to the right in the "knitting techniques" section. I remember learning the Provisional Cast On because I was entranced by the possibility of knitting from both sides of the cast on. Then after attempting to teach this technique to someone who just could not get the hang of it no matter how many times she tried (bless her heart), I took the concept and came up with a modified version, which I later found out already had a name, the Turkish Cast On.
Once you get the hang of a Turkish Cast On, you realize concept is so simple. As was the case with me. I thought I might never use any other type of cast on for my own personal knitting. However I still find it a challenge to teach to people. I think it may be possible that this new technique might be easier for many to understand so I can't wait to start working with it. See if I can hone my teaching skills a bit to help others find that easy cast on that may have thus far eluded them. Click here if you want to check it out! I'd love to hear what you think. Thanks again knitty.com!

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

New Pattern Coming Soon!

I would like to introduce the newest member of our little sock animal family. Inspired by the Build-A-Bear Orange Tabby (which has been discontinued). I will be working this pattern up and will have it available for purchase as of January 1st through ravelry. Of course this guy does not have to be a Orange Tabby or even a Tabby for that matter, but I will be adjusting his ears to be a little smaller for the final version.

I was once young and naive in thinking that writing patterns was really no big deal. Well now I'm not so naive (and definately not so young). I have learned so much this past couple of years, and realize there are many aspects to writing patterns that I never even considered. I appreciate all the support that I have gotten and want to continue sharing most of my patterns royalty free and at no charge. However some of the more developed patterns I will have to start collecting a small fee. I do want to apologize in advance for this and let everyone know that it was a very tough decision for me to come to. I hope for your continued interest, inspiration, and feedback.
Thank you

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

SOCK TURTLE 1.1

Gauge: 6s x 9r = 1 inch
Exact gauge is not essential for this project, but be sure to knit with smaller needles than your yarn recommends.

Materials: 40 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) undyed DK weight yarn, 40 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK Weight yarn, 1 set #2 (2.75 mm) DPNs, 12 in #2 (2.75 mm) circular needle. 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill, 1 tapestry needle.

CLICK HERE FOR PRINTABLE COPY






Stitch Instructions
k - knit; p - purl; st(s) - stitch(es); CO - Cast On; sl - slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle; ybwd - Move working yarn to back; DPN(s) - Double pointed needle(s); rem - remain(s), remaining; yfwd - Bring working yarn in front; BO - Bind off; unwkd - unworked
Turkish Cast on - Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with a scap peice of yarn (double thickness) below it (if you have an extra #2 circ any length, you can use it instead). Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment) - Sl 1 st from the Left needle onto the Right needle. Pick up a st below next st on left needle, sl 1 st from right needle back onto left needle, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment) - sl 1 st from the Left needle onto the Right needle. Pick up a st below next st on left needle, sl 1 st from right needle back onto left needle, k2tog
Consolidate - Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. Hold them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a 3rd needle knit-wise into the 1st st on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the 1st st on the back needle. k2tog.
k2tog - insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together.
RS -The right side of your work that appears mostly as stockinette st.
Short Rows - A technique that adds shape by partially knitting a row. There will be unwkd sts left over when you turn back to knit the other way. Do not sl unwkd sts from left-hand needle to right-hand needle.











INTRODUCTION
The majority of this project is knitted in the round, but there are sections that are knitted flat such as when short row shaping is required. The size of the finished item can be easily adjusted by using larger yarn and larger needles. However, this pattern has been designed with our accompanying kits in mind so individual results will vary. To obtain the best results,
Mybootee DK or Mybootee Sock Piggee/Turtle Kits are recommended. Please contact us if you have any questions or need clarification.







INSTRUCTIONS:
This little guy is knitted from the belly up. You will attach the limbs & head as you make them, then finish off with the shell.


BELLY
Use DPNs to work in the round.
Round 1: With Y2 CO 60, join ends and begin knitting in the round being careful not to twist sts when joining.
*Round 2 & all even rounds: knit all sts.
Odd Rounds: Decrease evenly by 10 sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 30 sts rem.

*Odd Rounds: Decrease evenly by 6 sts.
All even Rounds: knit all sts*
Repeat from * to * until 12 sts rem.

Final Round: (k2tog) 6 times, (6 sts rem). Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and using a tapestry needle, thread it through all the sts removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight & tie off on the purl side of the work. Don’t worry if it does not lay flat of if it looks kind of small, this will go away once you stuff him.










To set up for the limbs, use the circular needle to pick up 60 sts along the cast on edge of the belly with RS facing you. Knit all 60 sts once then put to the side & begin limbs.





TAIL
Use DPNs & your favorite cast on method & Y1 to CO 4 sts
Round 1: knit all sts once
*Even Rounds: Increase evenly by 2 sts.
Odd Rounds: knit all sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 12 sts rem.

Consolidate the sts (see stitch instructions). 6 sts rem. Cut yarn & leave approx 6 in to prevent sts coming undone during the attachment step.

















To attach tail, pick up the belly and with the RS facing you, and locate first 6 sts on the left-hand needle. Align them with the 6 sts of the tail, and consolidate them. Do not continue knitting, put to the side. You'll make the next two legs, then you'll attach them (starting with the next 6 sts of the belly).






LEGS (make 2)
Using Y1 and the Turkish Cast-On Technique (see stitch instructions) CO 24. The slip-knot does not count as one of your stitches, Don’t forget to purl a row. Work short rows on two DPNs with only 12 sts
Row 1: sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn, Row 2: sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn, Row 3: sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 7: sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 8: sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl 1, p until end of row, do not p enc
Row 11: sl 1, k until end of row, do not k enc. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short rows. If you used a circular needle for the cast on knit all of the sts on it. If you used scrap yarn, slip all the sts onto DPNs then knit them all. This is where each round will begin for now.

Rounds 1-5: knit all 24 sts. Divide sts evenly between two needles. Don't worry if it's not exactly symmetrical, this will resolve when you stuff it with fiberfill.


*Even rounds: To decrease each round by 4 sts, k2tog at each end of each needle.
Odd rounds: knit all sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 12 sts rem. Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches desired firmness, consolidate the sts (see st instructions). 6 sts rem. Cut yarn & leave approx 6 in to prevent sts coming undone during attachment. Place 1st leg onto a piece of scrap yarn or st saver tool until you finish the 2nd leg.

To attach the 1st leg,* align the next 6 sts of the belly, with the 6 sts of the 1st leg & consolidate.* K12. Repeat from * to * for the second leg. Do not continue knitting. Put to the side. You'll make the head next, then you'll attach it (starting with the next 6 sts of the belly).

HEAD
Pay special attention to the shaping for this piece or it will be crooked. Using Y1 and the Turkish Cast On Technique (see stitch instructions) CO 32. The slip-knot does not count as one of your stitches, Don’t forget to purl a row. Work short rows on two DPNs with only 16 sts
Row 1: sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 2: sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 7: sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 8: sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)

Row 10: sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: sl 1, p until end of row, do not p enc
Row 15: sl 1, k until end of row, do not k enc. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short rows. If you used a circular needle for the cast on knit all of the sts on it. If you used scrap yarn, slip all the sts onto DPNs then knit them all. This is where each round will begin for now. Don't worry if it's not exactly symmetrical, this will resolve when you stuff it with fiberfill.

Rounds 1-5: knit all 32 sts.
Round 6: (k1, k2tog, k1) 4 times, k16
Round 7: knit all 28 sts.
Round 8: k2, k2tog x 4, k18
Round 9: knit all 24 sts.
Round 10: k2tog, k4, k2tog, (k3, k2tog, k3) twice
Round 11: knit all 20 sts
Round 12: k6, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) x3, k2tog.
Round 13: knit all 16 sts
Round 14: k7, k2tog x 4, k1
Round 15: knit all 12 sts. Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches desired firmness, consolidate the stitches (see stitch instructions). Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches.

To attach the head, align the next 6 sts of the belly, with the 6 sts of the head & consolidate.

Repeat LEG instructions for the rem legs and attach them in the same way you did before. Whew! Now you've made it through the hardest part. k3. This is where each round starts from here until you finish. This is also the best time to weave in all loose ends. The nice thing is that you can weave them in on the WS of the belly and then just leave them there. There is no need to cut the excess because it will just be included with the stuffing. Also you can now use any combination of #2 needles that is comfortable for you to work with.








SHELL
Rounds 1-2:
purl all 60 sts
Rounds 3-14: knit all 60 sts

*Odd Rounds: decrease evenly by 6 sts.
Even Rounds: knit all sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 30 sts rem. Take a moment to stuff the bottom half of the body but don’t stuff too full. You will be stuffing more before you close the top.


Remaining Rounds: Decrease evenly by 6 sts until 6 sts rem. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining stitches. Do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill until your desired firmness, then pull tight, tie off, & weave in loose end.








FINISHING
Use the black yarn or DMC floss to embroider on the facial features.
I start with a chain stitch for the mouth, then I make the nostrils, followed by the eyes, and eyebrows. It takes a little practice to get the embroidery to look right, if you have not already had experience with it. If you prefer not to embroider, you can use buttons or safety eyes. Another option would be to use a needle and thread to sew on felt eyes.

Sorry for the inconvenience but my blog formatting is wacky today and I don't have any time to fix it. Please download the PDF version 2009 Sock Hippo Pattern Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification.Don’t forget to share your images with us on Ravelry!You'll begin this critter by making the legs and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make a tail, the ears, and the horns and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.Legs (make 4):With Y1 CO 24 stitches. Do not turn. You’ll be knitting in the round by working from the first stitch you casted on.Round 1: knitRound 2: (k8, inc 1,) 3 times. (27 stitches)Round 3: knitRound 4: (k9, inc 1,) 3 times, (30 stitches)Round 5: knitRound 6: purlRound 7: knitRound 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches),Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches)Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off.Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the knit side and begin working with the cast on edge. Switch to Y2 and pick up 24 stitches along the cast on edge.Round 1: knitRound 2: (k6, k2tog,) 3 times (21 stitches)Round 3: knitRound 4: (k5, k2tog,) 3 times (18 stitches)Rounds 5-8: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill and close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer all legs to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.Head:With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast-On Method, wrap yarn counter clockwise from left to right 16 times. This gives you 32 stitches, but you will work short rows on only 16 for now.Row 1: sl1, k14, (1 st remains unworked) turn,Row 2: sl1, p13, (1 st remains unworked) turn,Row 3: sl1, k12, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 4: sl1, p11, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 5: sl1, k10, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 6: sl1, p9, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 7: sl1, k8, (4 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 8: sl1, p7, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 9: sl1, k8, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 10: sl1, p9, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 11: sl1, k10, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 12: sl1, p11, p enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 13: sl1, k12, k enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turnRow 14: sl1, purl accross, (you will not p enc here, because you should be at the end of the row) turn,Row 15: sl1, knit across.Begin working rounds now. Slide your circular needle into place and just continue knitting the stitches along the cast on edge. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. (Now is a good time to start using your DP needles or if you prefer can use two circulars). Once you knit the stitches along the cast on edge, move the yarn tail to the front of your work. It will mark the beginning of each round.Rounds 1-5: knit, Snout:Row 1: This step doubles the next 16 stitches. Begin short rows again only working 16 stitches with Y1. (inc 1, k1) 8 times (k1, inc 1) 8 times (32 stitches), turn, (I use a backward loop cast on or a “inc 1”. if you can’t decide on a good increase method, you can KFB all 16 stitches for your first time through this pattern.)Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 3: sl1, k29, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 6: sl1, p26, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 7: sl1, k25, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 8: sl1, p24, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 9: sl1, k23, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 10: sl1, p22, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 11: sl1, k21, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 12: sl1, p20, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 13: sl1, k19, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 14: sl1, p18, (7 sts remain unworked) turnRow 15: sl1, k17, k enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 16: sl1, p18, p enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 17: sl1, k19, k enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 18: sl1, p20, p enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 19: sl1, k21, k enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 20: sl1, p22, p enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 21: sl1, k23, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 22: sl1, p24, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 23: sl1, k25, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 24: sl1, p26, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 25: sl1, k27, k enc, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 26: sl1, p28, p enc, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 27: sl1, k29, k enc, turnRow 28: sl1, p30, p enc, turnRow 29: sl1, k31, do not k enc, do not turn. Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y2 onto and resume working in the round by knitting the next 16 stitches. You should now be at the beginning of each round once again.Head cont:…Round 6: (k2tog) 16 times. k16, (you should have 32 stitches total)Round 7: knit 9:Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches)Round 9: knitRound 10: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 stitches). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.rounds 11-12: knit.Body:Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on.Round 1: (k4, inc 1, k4) 3 times (27 stitches)Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, Inc 1, k9, Inc 1, k8, Inc 1, k5 (30 stitches)Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together.While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting. Pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row. Hold the body needle and the leg needle parallel so that the body is farthest away from you and the leg is in the front. Consolidate (see instructions below) the next 9 stitches of the body with the 9 stitches of the leg. Now attach a second leg in the same manner as the first, k6 to finish off the roundRound 5: knitRound 6: k5, inc 1, knit to last 5, inc 1, k5 (32 stitches)Round 7: knitRound 8: k5, inc 1, k10, inc1, k2, inc1, k10, inc 1, k5 (36 stitches)Round 9: knitRound 10: k6, inc 1, k to last 6, inc 1, k6 (38 stitches)Round 11: knitRound 12: k6, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k2, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k6 (42 stitches)Round 13: knitRound 14: (k7, inc 1) twice, k5, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k5,(inc 1, k7) twice (48 stitches)Round 15: knitRound 16: (k8, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k8) twice (54 stitches)Round 17: knitRound 18: (k9, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k6, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k9) twice (60 stitches). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle.Rounds 19-26: knit,Round 27: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice, (54 stitches)Round 28: knit,Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 stitches)Round 30: k13. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions below) for one leg only. k4, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k13,Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 stitches)Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 stitches)Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.Ears (make 2):Row 1: Using Y2 CO 18 stitches, turn,Row 2: sl1, p2tog 8 times, p1, turn,Row 3: sl1, k2tog 4 times, k1, do not turn, cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the 6 remaining stitches pull tight. Fold the ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom edge together. Secure each ear to the top of the head along the line where you began to work the encroachment stitch earlier.Finishing: Embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first Sock Hippo. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.© 2008 Mybootee Boutique

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

2009 Babee Sox

Ribbed Babee Sox

Click HERE if you still need the old version.

Required Materials:
#2 DPNs, #2 Circular Needle
(required for Cast-On And Heel Turning)
1 Hank Mybootee Handpainted Sock yarn
(210 yrds)
Or for C1-3 & C4-6
2 Hanks Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn
(420 yrds)

Gauge 7s x 10r = 1 inch

Makes 7 different sizes!
Infant Shoe Sizes: I1-2 & I3-4
Toddler Shoe Sizes T5-7, T8-10, &
T11-13
Children’s Shoe Sizes C1-3 & C4-6

Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have comments or need clarification.
*Note: Sizes are designed to fit chubby little feet. If you child has narrow or slender feet, you may want to size down.

Start Here
Using the Turkish Cast On method cast on (24, 28, 36, 42, 50, 54, 56) stitches (12/14/18/21/25/27/28) wraps. Work Short Row Toe until you complete Row 27.
Short Row Toe
*Unless otherwise stated, simply turn your work at the end of each row.
Row 1: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 2: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 3: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 4: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 5: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd
For I1-2 & I3-4 only, skip to row 22
Row 6: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 7: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd
For T5-7 & T8-10 only, skip to Row 20
Row 8: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem unwkd
Row 9: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem unwkd
For T11-13 only, skip to row 18
Row 10: yfwd, sl 1, p until 5 sts rem unwkd
Row 11: ybwd, sl 1, k until 6 sts rem unwkd
For C1-3 only, skip to row 16
Row 12: yfwd, sl 1, p until 6 sts rem unwkd
Row 13: ybwd, sl 1, k until 7 sts rem unwkd
Row 14: yfwd, sl 1, p until 7 sts rem p enc
(6 sts rem unwkd
Row 15: ybwd, s l1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Resume C1-3
Row 16: yfwd, sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc(5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: ybwd, sl1 k until 6sts rem, k enc(5 sts rem unwkd)
Resume T11-13
Row 18: yfwd, sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc(4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: ybwd, sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc(4 sts rem unwkd)
Resume T5-7 & T8-10
Row 20: yfwd, sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc(3 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 21: ybwd, sl1, k until 4 sts rem k enc(3 sts rem
unwkd)
Resume 1-2 & I3-4
Row 22: yfwd, sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc(2 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 23: ybwd, sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc(2 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 24: yfwd, sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 25: ybwd, sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 26: yfwd, sl1, p across, do not p enc,
Row 27: ybwd, sl1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn


Begin working in the round by knitting the 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts from the circular needle.

K6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13). You should now be at the start of each round. Your finished toe should look like this.

Set up for the foot:
Round 1: k5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17), (m1, k2) x 7, m1, k5
(7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17). You should now have 32 (36, 40,
44, 48, 52, 56)
Round 2: knit
Foot: Work rounds of the foot as follows….
For I1-2:
Rounds 3-26 k7, p2, (k2, p2) until 7 sts rem, k7
For I3-4
Rounds, 3-32 k9, p2, (k2, pc) until 9 sts rem, k9
For T5-7
Rounds, 3-38, k9, p2, (k2, pc) until 9 sts rem, k9
For T8-10
Rounds 3-44 k11, p2, (k2, p2) until 11 sts rem, k11
For T11-13
Rounds 3-50 k11, p2, (k2, p2) until 11 sts rem, k11
For C1-3
Rounds 3-56 k13, p2, (k2, p2) until 13 sts rem, k13
For C4-6
Rounds 3-62 k13, p2, (k2, p2) until 13 sts rem, k13

Set up for the heal turning:
k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14). Use circular needle work

one more foot round until 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts rem. Use DPN to k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14).

You’ll work the heel the same as the foot and just pretend the sts on the circular needle do not exist for now. *Unless otherwise stated, simply turn your work at the end of each row.

Row 1: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 2: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 3: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 4: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 5: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 6: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 7: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd
For I1-2 & I3-4 only, skip to row 20
Row 8: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem unwkd
Row 9: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem unwkd
For T5-7 & T8-10 only, skip to Row 18
Row 10: yfwd, sl 1, p until 5 sts rem unwkd
Row 11: ybwd, sl 1, k until 6 sts rem unwkd
For T11-13 only, skip to row 16
Row 12: yfwd, sl 1, p until 6 sts rem unwkd
Row 13: ybwd, sl 1, k until 7 sts rem unwkd
Row 14: yfwd, sl 1, p until 7 sts rem, p enc,
(6 sts rem unwkd
Row 15: ybwd, s l1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, (6 sts
rem unwkd)
Resume T11-13
Row 16: yfwd, sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc(5 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 17: ybwd, sl1 k until 6sts rem, k enc(5 sts
rem unwkd)
Resume T5-7 & T8-10
Row 18: yfwd, sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc(4 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 19: ybwd, sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc(4 sts
rem unwkd)
Resume 1-2 & I3-4
Row 20: yfwd, sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc(3 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 21: ybwd, sl1, k until 4 sts rem k enc(3 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 22: yfwd, sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc(2 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 23: ybwd, sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc(2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 24: yfwd, sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 25: ybwd, sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 26: yfwd, sl1, p until 1 st rem, p enc (lifted stitch will come from below the first st on the circular needle)
Row 27: ybwd, sl1, k until 1 st rem, k enc (lifted stitch will
come from below the first st on the circular needle)

Work stitches from circular needle in established foot pattern, k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14).

Next 6 Rounds all sizes:
Work same as rounds of the foot

Cuff:
For I1-2:
Rounds 1-24: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1
For I3-4
Rounds 1-30: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
For T5-7:
Rounds 1-36: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
For T8-10:
Rounds 1-42: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1
T11-13:
Rounds 1-48: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1
C1-3:
Rounds 1-54: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
C4-6:
Rounds 1-60: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1

BO using the Tubular bind off method to obtain a stretchy cuff, weave in loose ends and voila!

Monday, December 14, 2009

Sock Monkee 2.1

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you

Click here for v2.0
Click here for a printable version

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set 2.75 mm #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch 2.75 mm #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, 1 skein red DMC floss or 2-3 yards of red sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

If you need clarification, email us at mybb@comcast.net Don’t forget to share your images with us on Ravelry!

Stitch Instructions
k:knit
ybwd: Move working yarn to back
p:purl
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining
st(s):stitch(es )
CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
BO: Bind off unwkd:u n wo rk e d sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, k2tog.
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog. m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase stitch if you prefer) k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.) I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire. KFB: knit next st, do not slide off the left needle yet. Instead ybwd, insert right needle purl-wise into the back loop of the same stitch and knit. You now have two sts where you once had one.

For this project you'll make the limbs first then you will begin the head & work from the top down attaching them at intervals. Once the body is complete, you'll make the eyes/ears/tail & attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features & you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.

Legs (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), CO 20 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on only 10 sts
Row 1: Sl 1, k unti l1 st remains unwkd, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unwkd, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unwkd, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Now is a good time to remove the slip knot. Slide the circular needle in a leftward direction to put into working position and knit those stitches.
Rounds 1-14: Knit all 20 sts. Switch to Y2
Rounds 15-44: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill & close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 10 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches. Transfer each leg to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.

Tail: With Y1, and your favorite cast on method, CO 4, do not turn, knit an I-Cord for about 14 rounds.
Switch to Y2, continue knitting until tail measures about 2 inches longer than the legs. No need to consolidate these 4
stitches, just cut yarn and transfer to your spare needle or scrap yarn.

Arms: (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), cast on 16 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on only 8 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs and continue knitting in the round.
Rounds 1-10: Knit all 16 sts. Switch to Y2
Rounds 11-34: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill & Consolidation (see stitch instructions) sts. * you should now have 8 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches. Transfer to spare needle, scrap of yarn, or stitch saver tool with the purl side of the final row facing you.

Head: With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast-On Method, cast on 40 stitches. Work short rows on only 20 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 19: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs, k20, switch to Y2. You’ll begin knitting in the round by knitting all 40 stitches. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work, also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. Start knitting the stitches from the circular needle. Now bring your yarn tail forward, to mark the start of each round.
Rounds 1-14: knit all 40 sts. Switch to Y1

Snout: This part is worked the same as the top of the head, in short rows across only two needles with only 20 sts. I f you are using 4 double points, slip the last 20 stitches worked on your circular needle for ease. And work the next 20 with three needles. If you are using two circulars, you will simply work short rows on one circular needle.
Row 1: k 2, KFB 4 times, k until the last six stitches of the round, KFB 4 times, k2, turn, (28 sts)
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 8 sts remain, k enc, turn, (7 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain, p enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain, k enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain, p enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 19: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain, k enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 20: Sl 1, p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 21: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 22: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 23: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 24: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 25: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 26: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 27: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 28: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 29: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Switch to Y2. Begin knitting in the round. K10 stitches and you should now be at the back of the head for the beginning of each round from now on. Work with all sts from now on.

Head continued:
Round 15: k12, k2tog four times, k8, k2tog 4 times, k12 (40 sts)
Round 16: knit
Round 17: k8, k2tog twice, k16, k2tog twice, k8 (36 sts)
Rounds 18: knit
Round 19: k7, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k7 (30 stitches)
Round 20: knit
Round 21: k6, k2tog twice, (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, k6 (24 stitches). Now you should have what looks like a really short fat sock with a white heel and white toe.
Rounds 22 & 23: Knit

Body: Round 24: k4, KFB, k14, KFB, k4 (26 stitches)
Round 25: k4, KFB, k6, KFB, k2, KFB, k6, KFB, k4 (30 stitches)
Round 26: knit
Round 27: k4, consolidate the next 8 sts with the sts on 1 arm. To do this, hold the body section in your left hand and place the first arm in front of the body section with the purl side of final row facing you. Consolidate (see instructions) sts, k6, consolidate the next arm with the next 8 sts, k4
Round 28: knit
Round 29: k5, KFB, k18, KFB, k5 (32 stitches)
Round 30: k5, KFB, k8, KFB, k2, KFB, k8, KFB, k5 (36 stitches)
Round 31: knit
Round 32: k6, KFB, k22, KFB, k6 (38 stitches)
Round 33: k6, KFB, k10, KFB, k2, KFB, k10, KFB, k6 (42 stitches)
Round 34: knit
Round 35: k7, KFB, k26, KFB, k7 (44 stitches)
Round 36: k7, KFB, k12, KFB, k2, KFB, k12, KFB, k7 (48 stitches)
Round 37: knit
Round 38: k8, KFB, k13, KFB, k2, KFB, k13, KFB, k8 (52 stitches)
Rounds 39 – 59: knit
Round 60: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k24, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog. You should have 2 sts left before the end of the round. Now attach the tail using the consolidation method (see instructions), which you used earlier with the arms. This puts you 2 sts into the next round. (46 stitches)
Round 61: knit 44.
Round 62: (k2, k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2) twice, k2, (40 stitches)
Switch to Y1
Round 63: k10. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions) for one leg only, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k10
Round 64: knit
Round 65: k4, (k2tog, k8) three times, k2tog, k4 (36 stitches)
Round 66: knit
Round 67: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 68: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)
Round 69: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 70: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 71: k2tog 6 times, cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches but do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Eyes: Using Y1, CO 16 sts, join ends and knit in the round,
Round 1: knit,
Round 2: [k2tog] 8 times,
Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail and using a tapestry needle thread it through the stitches, removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight enough to close any gap, then pass the needle from front to back through the center of the eye. Now pass the needle through the head at the point where you’d like the eyes to be centered. This tacks the eye into place a little so that you can stitch it into place with a needle and thread.

Ears (Monkee Only): Using Y2 and the Turkish Cast On Method (see stitch instructions), CO 24, turn
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 10: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn, begin working in the round.
Rounds 1-3: knit,

Divide stitches evenly onto two DP needles, Stuff the ears with a little poly fill and consolidate as you did for the legs and arms. You now have 12 live stitches. Cut yarn to leave about 12 inches of yarn to secure the ears to the head along the column of stitches that lead from the edge of the snout to the top of the head. There should be about 14 and you can just stitch them into place as evenly as possible. *I like to work with two sts at a time. Run the through the first two stitches on the ear, then through the first two sts on the head. Then just repeat this and tie off.*

Cut the yarn leaving enough length that you can use it to secure the ear to the head. At the top of the head you’ll see two subtle lines that formed along the increase decrease lines. Secure each ear along these lines.

Finishing: Use a Basic Chain stitch to embroider on the mouth, eyebrows, and nostrils. Secure the Eyes into place with a needle and matching thread and finish off with a Star Stitch finishes off the eyes and voila! You have your very own Sock Monkee 2.1!


Monday, December 7, 2009

New Ornament

Hi everyone!

I wanna thank everyone who came out to see us at the Old World Christmas Market this year and helped us make the event a success. Look for us again next year. We made some new friends this year at the market as well as caught up with some old ones. One of our new friends is Beverly at Beverly Hill's Bakery. I have to say that I don't eat pie crust but hers is the best I've had. My fav is the Triple Berry Pie. Just the right amount of sweet and tart and in warm with a little vanilla bean ice cream.....ok enough said. I might have to go get another one this weekend.

I want to introduce everyone to our latest little ornament. This little guy has been very popular and is currently only available through special order. Wait a minute, I guess if you've been to my website, you would probably have to say that about everything we have except the hand painted yarn. Too busy, what else can I say? Well here he is!

...and this is my favorite part!

Thursday, November 19, 2009

SOCK GIRAFFE 1.2

PREVIOUS VERSIONS AVAILABLE 2009 Version : 2010 Version

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Note: Gauge is not critical with this project. The most imortant part is that for whatever yarn you choose, yardage may vary and you want a smaller needle than what your yarn suggests.

Materials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification. Don’t forget to share your images with us on Ravelry!





Stitch Instructions
k:knit - ybwd: Move working yarn to back - p:purl - DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining - st(s): stitch(es) - CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front - BO: Bind off - unwkd: unworked
sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps). Bring yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up st just below next st, lift onto the left hand needle. p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up st just below next st, lift onto the left hand needle, k2tog.
Consolidate: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase stitch if you prefer)
k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.)
I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire.


DIRECTIONS
You'll begin this critter by making the legs and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make a tail, the ears, and the horns and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.

Legs (make 4): Begin hooves with Y1, CO 24 sts. Join ends and work in the round from the top down.
Round 1: knit all 24 sts
Round 2: (k8, m1,) 3 times. (27 sts)
Round 3: knit all 24 sts
Round 4: (k9, m1,) 3 times, (30 sts)
Round 5: knit all 30 sts
Round 6: purl all 30 sts
Round 7: knit all 30 sts
Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 sts),
Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 sts)
Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 sts) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off.

With Y2 and pick up 24 stitches along the cast on edge of the hoof so you can work towards the top of each leg.
Round 1: knit all 24 sts
Round 2: (k6, k2tog,) 3 times (21 sts)
Round 3: knit all 21 sts
Round 4: (k5, k2tog,) 3 times (18 sts)

Rounds 5-24: knit all 18 sts. Stuff with fiber-fill & Consolidate (see stitch instructions) sts. (9 sts). Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches of length & 9 live sts.

Transfer all legs to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.









Head: With Y2 & the Turkish Cast On method (see st instructions), CO 32 sts. *Don’t forget to purl a row. The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 16 sts. With regard to "unwkd" sts, do not slip them and do not drop them, just leave them where they are when you work back the other way.
Row 1: sl1, k until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 2: sl1, p until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 3: sl1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 4: sl1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 5: sl1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 6: sl1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 7: sl1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd
Row 8: sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: sl1, purl across, Do not p enc because you are at the end of the row.
Row 15: sl1, knit across. Do not k enc because you are at the end of the row. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short rows. Remove the slip knot. Knit the 16 sts from the circular needle.

Rounds 1-4: knit all 32 sts
Round 5: knit 16 sts, switch to your circular needle to knit the rem16 sts.

Snout: Switch to Y1 & work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 16 sts. Ignore the sts on the circular needle for now.
Row 1: (k1, m1) x 7, k2, (m1, k1) x 7 (30 sts),
Row 2: sl1, p until 1 st rem unwkd, turn,
Row 3: sl1, k until 1 st rem unwkd, turn,
Row 4: sl1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 5: sl1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 6: sl1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 7: sl1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 8: sl1, p until 4 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 9: sl1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 10: sl1, p until 5 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 11: sl1, k until 5 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 12: sl1, p until 6 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 13: sl1, k until 6 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 14: sl1, p until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 15: sl1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc, turn (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: sl1, k until 6 sts rem, k enc, turn (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 18: sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc, turn (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc, turn, (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 20: sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 21: sl1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 22: sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 23: sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 24: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 25: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 26: sl1, p until 1 st rem, p enc (lifted st comes from below the first st on circular needle), turn,
Row 27: sl1, k until 1 st rem, k enc (lifted st comes from below the first st on circular needle), Do not turn, because you are at the end of the short rows.
Round 6: Switch to Y2 & resume working in the round by knitting the next 16 stitches. You should now be at the beginning of each round once again. Head cont…:
Round 7: (k2tog) x 7, k2, (k2tog) x 7 (you should have 32 sts total)
Rounds 8 & 10: knit all 32 sts,
Round 9: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 sts)
Round 11: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 sts). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.







Rounds 12-31: knit all 24 sts,
Stuff the head & neck with fiber-fill. Tamper filling until it reaches your desired firmness. Don’t stuff too full and don’t stuff up to the needles or you will end up with fibers in your knitting which are difficult to remove.

Body: Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on.
Round 1: (k4, m1, k4) 3 times (27)
Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, Inc 1, k9, Inc 1, k8, Inc 1, k5 (30 sts)
Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together.

While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting. Pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row. Hold the body needle and the leg needle parallel so that the body is farthest away from you and the leg is in the front. Consolidate (see instruction) the next 9 stitches of the body with the 9 stitches of the leg. Now attach a second leg in the same manner as the first, k6 to finish off the round

Round 5, knit all 30 sts,
Round 6: k5, m1, knit to last 5, m1, k5 (32 sts)
Round 7: knit all 32 sts,
Round 8: k5, m1, k10, m1, k2, m1, k10, m1, k5 (36 sts)
Round 9: knit all 36 sts
Round 10: k6, m1, k to last 6, m1, k6 (38 sts)
Round 11: knit all 38 sts,
Round 12: k6, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1, k6 (42 sts)
Round 13: knit all 42 sts,
Round 14: (k7, m1) twice, k5, m1, k4, m1, k5, (m1, k7) twice (48 sts)
Round 15: knit all 48 sts,
Round 16: (k8, m1) twice, k6, m1, k4, m1, k6, (m1, k8) twice (54 sts)
Round 17: knit all 54 sts,
Round 18: (k9, m1) twice, k6, m1, k6, m1, k6,(m1, k9) twice (60 sts). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle.

Rounds 19-26: knit all 60 sts,
Round 27: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice,(54 sts)
Round 28: knit all 54 sts,
Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 sts)
Round 30: k13. Now you’ll consolidate (see instructions) one leg only. k4, attach the rem leg same way, k13,
Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 sts)
Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 sts)
Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 sts), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 sts)
Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 sts) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Ears (make 2):
Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn,
Rows 2-3: work 2 rows of garter stitch, turn,
Row 4-5: k2, m1, knit to end,
Row 6: knit to end,
Rows 7-9: repeat rows 4-6. You should have 10 sts
Rows 10-14: knit to end, turn,
Rows 15-23: SSK, knit to end. You should now have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.Horns (make 2): With Y1, CO 4 and knit an I-cord for 24 stitches. The next step doubles your stitches. K1, m1 until you have 8 and then knit all 8 sts once around. K1, m1 until you have 16 sts and then knit all 16 sts once around. Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, slip each stitch onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all stitches a couple more times pulling tight each time to be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off, thread it down through the bulb on top of the horn, down through the shaft of the horn and out the other end. Use this to attach the horn to the head at top where you began working the encroachment during the head shaping. They will be spaced approximately ¾ inch apart and there will be a small space between the horns and the ears as well. Tie off any remaining ends.

Finishing: For the tail, cut three 12-24 inch strands of yarn, thread them through a couple of stitches on the back of the giraffe on the row just above where you began decreasing to finish him off. Braid and tie off so that it looks kind of like a little broom. Now embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first sock giraffe. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Busy, busy, busy...

Well folks, It's been a while since I posted, but now that the 2009 Farmer's Market has come to a close and I've had a moment to breath, I can update everyone on what I have been up to lately.

After taking a week off to make my halloween costume, I have been a busy bee making items for the 2009 Old World Christmas Market which will be held this year at the Rio Grand Ballroom at the Gatway Mall from 11/21-11/29. Should be a good show. I've been putting finishing touches on Mini Mitten ornaments and Mini Felted Purse ornaments. But, in the midst of that, as luck would have it, inspiration takes over.

I've been working on these all summer on the side, and will have them ready for the Christmas show. The nice thing too is that I was able to send them home with my business partner and she can give them a little something special that I am unable to do. Can't wait to see the rest of the ones she has!


This little Pincusion ornament measures about 2.5 inches and is the first in my sudden fascination with designer fabric and its many uses. Each one will either be On-Of-A-Kind or very limited edition. This one happens to be the only one and I have it listed in my etsy store.


After making little pincushions I thought that Little Pear Pincushion ornaments would be really cute. Decided just to do little pears in a variety of color schemes. I have several of them to sew together tonight. Woo Hoo!



These little guys will be perfect for the fiber enthusiast. To celebrate another happy year of knitting! And I can't help but say that they are stinking cute. Each mini skein measures about 2.5 inches. The little labels are legible and real. I just love em.!



Last but not least, this is last nights little creation! I love the look of a fabric fortune cookie. This is the prototype, but the general idea will be the same. Can't wait to get a batch of these made too.




















Thursday, September 24, 2009

When life hands you compliments....

Make lemonaid??? Not sure if that applies here but I just wanted to share something sappy with with everyone. We are way too hard on ourselves. We expect so much or our selves at times and sometimes what we expect is unreasonable. So when someone gives you a compliment, be gracious, say "Thank You" and then believe it.

It seems sometimes in the hustle and bustle of daily living, that we don't always feel appreciated or respected. So we have to relish the compliments we get, not discount them. Take every compliment that is offered as being sincere and listen to the input of others. No I don't mean to derive all your self worth from others opinions of you but instead, listen to what they have to say. They may have an unbiased point of view. So my advice for today, tomorrow, the next day, and so on? Be true to yourself. Find a way to express "you" in everything you do and when life hands you compliments.....reward yourself because "you done good!"

Monday, September 21, 2009

OOOHHH! Jogless stripes!


I am quite tickled about the jogless stripes concept. It's so simple, and see how it really works. I'm sure as I practice this technique more, I will get better. But so far, so good.

I can hopefully post a link to the blog that solved this problem for me. I'm just waiting for the owner's OK.

I taught my first Sock Hippo class this past Friday. It went pretty good. I have to refine my teaching technique a bit but overall I am pleased with the result. Second session is Friday and I'll have a better opportunity to see how I should refine my process. I had fun though.

Farmer's Market this year has been a little slower than usual, but still fun. It keeps me busy. After the market on Saturday, I cleaned off the back patio so that my dad and I could Dye cotton Sunday.

All I can say is WOW! He tye dyed two shirts, and I dyed lots of cotton yarn. I am eager to see how it turnes out. The process for dying cotton is much more involved and takes a longer time period than the wool. Its no wonder there is a shortage of hand dyed cottons. Perhaps when I have more time I can go into detail but for now, lets just say I feel accomplished and will post pics as soon as I have them.

Thank you all again for reading the ramblings of a madwoman and stay tuned....

Monday, September 14, 2009

It's Monday!!!! Woo Hoo!!!


Actually I'm not that excited about Monday. Not because I don't like my day job, but that I can't stay home and work on all the exciting ideas I have spinning around in my head right now. :( I'm sure we can all feel that pain.

It's OK though. I had a productive weekend and whipped out a few more oven mitts for the market and my Etsy store. (Someday soon I may be able to update my website.) So here they are. I had a lot of fun making them and actually have several more to make. I do feel like I'm living in a crafters pig sty though. Everywhere I look there are fabric and yarn scraps, and I clean it up regularly but I make a mess just as soon as I do it. I bet we can all feel that pain too! I am eager to finish the oven mitts because then the supplies can be put away and there will be new mess to deal with, LOL.

The first stocking is almost done. I'm currently knitting the solid band and after playing with graphpaper and names, decided against knitting the names. I just don't have enough stitches to knit them in to look good. I did however come up with an idea to use ribbon to embroider them in. That will be fun. I really do wish I could figure out how to make a frayed ribbon so that there is some texture as well to the names. I think that could be fun as well. Thought about cutting 1 inch strips, carefully putting a very thin line of fray check down the middle and trowing them into the washer several times to get the fray. I could trim it up afterward so that it looks nice then using that as the ribbon. But we will see as we get to that point. Thank you to all my readers who read on my ramblings.... Will post tomorrow hopefully about what I come up with tonight after work.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Today's Journey

A couple weeks ago I recieved a custom order request for three of my "non traditional" Fair Isle Christmas stockings with the names of each family member. After dyeing and drying the yarn, I finally began the knitting. I originally thought it would take two weeks per stocking, but after working the toe and the first pattern repeat I realize it will be done much quicker. Woo Hoo!!!

The next item of business....How do I add the names so that it doesn't interfere with the patterning. I came up with three ideas. 1. knit the names vertically along the back edge of the stocking on blocks of color where the patterning isn't worked anyway. Problem with this idea, I'd have to put it on both sides of the stocking because I don't know how they will be hung. 2. Use fabric applique to stitch each individual letter into place vertically down the front side. Problem with this idea is again, would have to do them on both sides. And the fabric would have to be just right. Perhaps felt? Haven't totally discounted this idea yet. 3. Just replace one of the pattern repeats with the name fo the family member. This seems like a winner but since I've begun composing this blog entry I have actually worked out some of the details and may still need to decide. Any ideas would be fab and much appreciated.

As for my little doggie that I posted earlier this week, I think I'm going to put little jewels or the like around the collar. When I pinned the collar in place, there were little holes left from the fabric adhesive. And since the pin baubles actually looked kind of cute, I think that will add just the right amount of something special. As if the little cutie isn't already really stinkin' cute!!!

I will keep you updated on my progress.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Mybootee Sock Monkee 2.0 has inspired me to create another little critter which will remain unnamed for the time being. I believe this "secret" project will be fantastic, but I find it hard sometimes to express what's in my head with physical mediums. I will however share my latest stop in this continual journey.

After making about 100 different foldable fans, I got to thinking, "What else can I make using these great fabrics?" So I started making oven mitts. I know, kinda cheesy, but it takes a special kind of person to appreciate a unique oven mitt. And I'm sure everyone reading this knows, there are many special kinds of people in this world, who am I to decide that the ones who like unique oven mitts are any less special than those who don't. Here's my fave. Its sold already, but I will be working on a couple more that are very similar and perhaps sets of potholders and oven mitts of my more popular designs.

There is something appealing about green and brown together. I'm also trying to find a way to couple browns with other colors. They just seem eye catching to me.

Next in my journey... This little guy. He is completely hand stitched because he measures H=3.5 in, W=5 in, L=5.5 in. I found a pattern for a larger version of this little dog, and scaled it down. I immediately thought he'd make a cute pincushion. We shall see what becomes of him.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

When it rains it pours cont......

Well everyone, I have had so much fun with this new project, and because I will be dying yarn for the next two weeks and unable to do much else, I have just been making fans galore! I picked out a bunch of new fabrics and have decided that no two will be exactly alike. I even made sure to get some purple ones made per a loyal readers request. I hope you like them.