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Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set 2.75 mm #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch 2.75 mm #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, 1 skein red DMC floss or 2-3 yards of red sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,
Stitch Instructions
k:knit
ybwd: Move working yarn to back
p:purl
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining
st(s):stitch(es )
CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
BO: Bind off unwkd:u n wo rk e d sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, k2tog.
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog. m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase stitch if you prefer) k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.) I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire. KFB: knit next st, do not slide off the left needle yet. Instead ybwd, insert right needle purl-wise into the back loop of the same stitch and knit. You now have two sts where you once had one.
For this project you'll make the limbs first then you will begin the head & work from the top down attaching them at intervals. Once the body is complete, you'll make the eyes/ears/tail & attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features & you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.
Legs (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), CO 20 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on only 10 sts
Row 1: Sl 1, k unti l1 st remains unwkd, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unwkd, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unwkd, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Now is a good time to remove the slip knot. Slide the circular needle in a leftward direction to put into working position and knit those stitches.
Rounds 1-14: Knit all 20 sts. Switch to Y2
Rounds 15-44: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill & close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 10 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches. Transfer each leg to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.
Tail: With Y1, and your favorite cast on method, CO 4, do not turn, knit an I-Cord for about 14 rounds.
Switch to Y2, continue knitting until tail measures about 2 inches longer than the legs. No need to consolidate these 4
stitches, just cut yarn and transfer to your spare needle or scrap yarn.
Arms: (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), cast on 16 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on only 8 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs and continue knitting in the round.
Rounds 1-10: Knit all 16 sts. Switch to Y2
Rounds 11-34: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill & Consolidation (see stitch instructions) sts. * you should now have 8 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches. Transfer to spare needle, scrap of yarn, or stitch saver tool with the purl side of the final row facing you.
Head: With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast-On Method, cast on 40 stitches. Work short rows on only 20 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 19: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs, k20, switch to Y2. You’ll begin knitting in the round by knitting all 40 stitches. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work, also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. Start knitting the stitches from the circular needle. Now bring your yarn tail forward, to mark the start of each round.
Rounds 1-14: knit all 40 sts. Switch to Y1
Snout: This part is worked the same as the top of the head, in short rows across only two needles with only 20 sts. I f you are using 4 double points, slip the last 20 stitches worked on your circular needle for ease. And work the next 20 with three needles. If you are using two circulars, you will simply work short rows on one circular needle.
Row 1: k 2, KFB 4 times, k until the last six stitches of the round, KFB 4 times, k2, turn, (28 sts)
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 8 sts remain, k enc, turn, (7 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain, p enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain, k enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain, p enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 19: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain, k enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 20: Sl 1, p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 21: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 22: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 23: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 24: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 25: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 26: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 27: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 28: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 29: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Switch to Y2. Begin knitting in the round. K10 stitches and you should now be at the back of the head for the beginning of each round from now on. Work with all sts from now on.
Head continued:
Round 15: k12, k2tog four times, k8, k2tog 4 times, k12 (40 sts)
Round 16: knit
Round 17: k8, k2tog twice, k16, k2tog twice, k8 (36 sts)
Rounds 18: knit
Round 19: k7, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k7 (30 stitches)
Round 20: knit
Round 21: k6, k2tog twice, (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, k6 (24 stitches). Now you should have what looks like a really short fat sock with a white heel and white toe.
Rounds 22 & 23: Knit
Body: Round 24: k4, KFB, k14, KFB, k4 (26 stitches)
Round 25: k4, KFB, k6, KFB, k2, KFB, k6, KFB, k4 (30 stitches)
Round 26: knit
Round 27: k4, consolidate the next 8 sts with the sts on 1 arm. To do this, hold the body section in your left hand and place the first arm in front of the body section with the purl side of final row facing you. Consolidate (see instructions) sts, k6, consolidate the next arm with the next 8 sts, k4
Round 28: knit
Round 29: k5, KFB, k18, KFB, k5 (32 stitches)
Round 30: k5, KFB, k8, KFB, k2, KFB, k8, KFB, k5 (36 stitches)
Round 31: knit
Round 32: k6, KFB, k22, KFB, k6 (38 stitches)
Round 33: k6, KFB, k10, KFB, k2, KFB, k10, KFB, k6 (42 stitches)
Round 34: knit
Round 35: k7, KFB, k26, KFB, k7 (44 stitches)
Round 36: k7, KFB, k12, KFB, k2, KFB, k12, KFB, k7 (48 stitches)
Round 37: knit
Round 38: k8, KFB, k13, KFB, k2, KFB, k13, KFB, k8 (52 stitches)
Rounds 39 – 59: knit
Round 60: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k24, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog. You should have 2 sts left before the end of the round. Now attach the tail using the consolidation method (see instructions), which you used earlier with the arms. This puts you 2 sts into the next round. (46 stitches)
Round 61: knit 44.
Round 62: (k2, k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2) twice, k2, (40 stitches)
Switch to Y1
Round 63: k10. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions) for one leg only, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k10
Round 64: knit
Round 65: k4, (k2tog, k8) three times, k2tog, k4 (36 stitches)
Round 66: knit
Round 67: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 68: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)
Round 69: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 70: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 71: k2tog 6 times, cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches but do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.
Eyes: Using Y1, CO 16 sts, join ends and knit in the round,
Round 1: knit,
Round 2: [k2tog] 8 times,
Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail and using a tapestry needle thread it through the stitches, removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight enough to close any gap, then pass the needle from front to back through the center of the eye. Now pass the needle through the head at the point where you’d like the eyes to be centered. This tacks the eye into place a little so that you can stitch it into place with a needle and thread.
Ears (Monkee Only): Using Y2 and the Turkish Cast On Method (see stitch instructions), CO 24, turn
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 10: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn, begin working in the round.
Rounds 1-3: knit,
Divide stitches evenly onto two DP needles, Stuff the ears with a little poly fill and consolidate as you did for the legs and arms. You now have 12 live stitches. Cut yarn to leave about 12 inches of yarn to secure the ears to the head along the column of stitches that lead from the edge of the snout to the top of the head. There should be about 14 and you can just stitch them into place as evenly as possible. *I like to work with two sts at a time. Run the through the first two stitches on the ear, then through the first two sts on the head. Then just repeat this and tie off.*
Cut the yarn leaving enough length that you can use it to secure the ear to the head. At the top of the head you’ll see two subtle lines that formed along the increase decrease lines. Secure each ear along these lines.
Finishing: Use a Basic Chain stitch to embroider on the mouth, eyebrows, and nostrils. Secure the Eyes into place with a needle and matching thread and finish off with a Star Stitch finishes off the eyes and voila! You have your very own Sock Monkee 2.1!
