MYBOOTEE SURPLUS BOOTEES

Well folks. I have been busily developing a new pattern this past couple weeks. And am almost ready for the testing phase.

They resemble Japanese style Kimono Booties and are knitted in one peice. The "surplus" part is the extra layer on the top that results from the trifold construction.

I will be posting on Ravelry as soon as it is ready for testing and look forward to the input that I will inevitably receive. Keep an eye out, If you don't want to be a tester that's ok too.

We are sorry for the inconvenience, but this pattern has required additional testing. We expect to have it available sometime after March 1st.

Sometimes....

in the midst of inspiration, torn between what I need to do and what I want to do, I am pleasantly suprised. As I sit at work today trying to find every excuse not to work I am drawn to shoe shopping, which due to my size 11 feet always presents a stimulating challenge. Then I have some of the seasonal goodies that inevitably show up at this time of year to tempt me. I then proceed to paruse the internet, looking for the next brilliant idea. Somthing I can use up the myriad of designer fabric scraps that I have amassed during the last year. So many scraps and no good solid ideas.

In my search I came across a wonderful blog. I love the fabrics she uses, and her vision. I also was particularly struck by her statement "I am very happy for small businesses to sell items made from my PDF Patterns." There are a lot of things that this statement tells me. The main one is that she loves what she does and she wants to share with others. I so rarely come accross other designers that are willing to share their ideas so that everyone may benefit from them. So CLICK HERE to see it.

KNIT ENCROACHMENT

Here I'll show you how to knit encroachment, which is the opposite of a purl encroachment.

Here's what your work will look like. Its likely you've already completed a purl encroachment and this is just about the same. You will start with some of your stitches on the left-hand needle, and some of your stitches on the right-hand needle.

Slip the first stitch from the left hand-needle knit-wise onto the right-hand needle

Use right-hand needle to lift the stitch from BELOW THE NEXT STITCH up ONTO the left hand-needle. Be careful not to let it get to close to the stitch that was already there.

Slip lifted stitch knit-wise from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle.

Knit the two stitches together through the back loops.

TWEENEE ARMWARMERS

Required Materials:
400-420 yards Mybootee Handpainted Self Striping Sock Yarn, Size 2 DPNs or size 2 12 inch circ,
Tapestry needle

Gauge:
7 sts = 1 inch, 9 rows = 1 inch

Abbreviations:
k-knit
p-purl
CO-cast on
BO-bind off
st(s)-stitches

Tweens love these arm warmers and the good thing about this pattern is that you can make them and they stretch enough that even adults can wear them. Can fit arms up to 8 inches in circumference and measure up to12 inches in length.

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee Hand-painted sock yarn. Since gauge can be affected by different yarns, needle size, and how tightly you knit, it is important to make a swatch. If your swatch is smaller, then use a larger needle size, if your swatch is bigger, use a smaller needle size.

Cast on 60, join ends and begin knitting in the round.
Rows 1-20: K2 p2
K1 stitch after completing the 20th row and turn.

The next 20 rows will form the thumb hole. These rows will not be worked in the round, instead you will turn your work after each row is completed and you will work back the other way.
Row 21 (all odd rows): P1, (K2 P2) repeat unitil the 59th st is worked, P1 and turn.
Row 22 (all even rows): K2, (P2 K2) repeat until the 59th st is worked, K1 and turn.
*After completing the 40th row, DO NOT TURN. You will now begin working in the round again.

Row 41: K1, (P2 K2) repeat for 54 more stitches. This will be the starting point for each row hereafter.
Row 42-100: K2 P2 for entire row.

*If you are working with a 420 yard skein of Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn, you should now bind off, weave in loose ends, and begin the next arm warmer.
*If you are working with 210 yard skeins of Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn, you may continue to make the arm warmers as long as you wish or until the yarn runs out (which ever happens first). Make sure you leave at least a 1.5 yards to bind off.

BO using a Tubular Bind Off or Jenny's Suprisingly Stretchy Bind off and voila!

2010 Old World Christmas Market Pictures

MADELINN BEANEE PATTERN

Click here for a printable version
This beanee fits newborn to six months with a head circumference
of up to 18 inches.
Gauge: 6 sts = 1 inch, 8 rows = 1 inch
Materials needed: 100 yards DK weight yarn & US size 5 Double Pointed needles required. (1 Addi Turbo 16 inch circular needle is also very helpful if you have used them before, but I would not recommend them for a new knitter.)

Note: Since each yarn is unique, it is strongly recommended that you knit a swatch and make sure it is the proper gauge. Your gauge may also depend on how tightly you knit. If you are a tight knitter you may need to use a larger gauge needle and if you are a loose knitter, you may need to use a smaller gauge needle.
Instructions

Cast on 80 sts. Join ends
K2 p2 for 50 rows
Leaving a 24 inch tail, cut yarn and with a yarn needle use the kitchner stitch to graft the top of the hat. Weave in loose ends,
embellish with pompoms and your done! Now you can put it on your favorite baby's head..

Kitchener Stitch Instructions

Pom Pom instructions (finger method)

Pom Pom Instructions (Alternate Method)

My Newest Hanspun Yarn....

Well folks. I wanna say thank you again for your patience during all the changes and for bearing with me. I wanted to share my newest handspun yarns. The drop spindle has been retired for a time to make room for the Ashford Traveller that was generously traded to me from my new good friend Meg B. THANKS MEG!!! Anyway, enjoy the pics.

PURL ENCROACHMENT

Here I will show you how to purl encroachment. I prefer this method because it is the first method I learned how to turn a heel with. It is also sometime referred to as the Sherman Heel/Toe. It takes some getting used to because it is less commonly used. But once you get the idea, it's not bad. For those of you who know how to work short rows with a wrap and turn, feel free to apply that instead. My patterns have not been tested with a wrap and turn, so you will be on your own.

So now that your ready to begin the purl encroachment, you'll notice that you have stitches on the left needle, and stitches on the right needle.

Start by slipping the first stitch on the left-hand needle purlwise onto the right-hand needle.

Next, using your right-hand needle lift the stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle and place it onto the left-hand needle. I have used a tapestry needle here for demonstration only. Be sure to use your fingers to prevent it getting too close to the stitch that was already on the needle.

Now slip the previously slipped stitch from the right-hand needle back onto the left-hand needle.

Purl the two stitches together.
Here's what your work will look like once you are done.

EMBELLISHED HELMET HAT

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
S: 16 in circumference; 16 in crown (from tip of one earflap to the tip of the other earflap)
M: 18 in circumference; 18 in crown
L: 20 in circumference; 20 in crown.

Additional sizes can be achieved by changing needle size and/or yarn weight to change the gauge.




Stitch Instructions and Abbreviations

k: knit
rem: remain(s), remaining
sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle st(s): stitch(es)
PM: place stitch marker
SM: slip stitch marker
m1: make one stitch by using left-hand needle, pick up the bar between the stitches from. Use the right-hand needle to knit the bar through the back loop.

NOTES:

*Please remember sizes are only a guide. You may want to adjust according to your preference.
*Pattern is worked in the round with two strands of yarn held together.
*Directions are for all sizes unless otherwise stated.
*All attempts have been made to assure accuracy & to address any potential issues.  Please contact us if you have any questions.
*Printable copy can be downloaded from Ravelry.com


INSTRUCTIONS:
S/M/L - CO 64(72, 80). Join ends & begin knitting in the round.

EARFLAPS:
Rnd 1: knit all sts.

S - Rnd 2: k3, m1 & PM. k10, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k10 PM, m1, k10, m1, PM, k10 k2tog, PM, k2tog, k10, PM, m1, k3.

M - Rnd 2: k4, m1, & PM. k11, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k11, PM, m1, k12, m1, PM, k11, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k11, PM, m1, k4.

L - Rnd 2: k5, m1, & PM. k12, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k12, PM, m1, k16, m1, PM, k12, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k12, PM, m1, k5.

S/M/L - *Rnd 3: knit all sts.
Rnd 4: knit until 1st marker, m1, SM, knit until 2 st rem before 2nd marker, k2tog, SM, k2tog, knit until 3rd marker, SM, m1, knit until 4th marker, m1, SM, knit until 2 st rem before 5th marker, k2tog, SM, k2tog, knit until 6th marker, SM, m1, knit rem sts.*

S - Rnds 5-20: Repeat from *to*.

M - Rnds 5-22: Repeat from *to*.

L - Rnds 5-24: Repeat from *to*.

S/M/L – To set up for crown, knit all sts 1 rnd.

CROWN:
Rnd 26: knit until 1st marker & RM. k2tog (RM as necessary). Knit until 5th marker removing markers as you go. k2tog (RM as necessary). Remove rem marker & knit to end.

*Odd Rnds: Decrease number of sts evenly by 6.
Even Rnds: knit all sts*
Repeat from * to * until you have 36 sts left.

Rem Rnds: Decrease number of sts evenly by 6 each rnd until 6 sts rem. Cut yarn & draw through rem sts with tapestry needle. Tie off & weave in loose ends.

FINISHING: Embellish any way you wish or wear it simply as is.

Froggee Eye Chart

Stitch Instructions

Here are some of my more commonly used stitch Instructions

Stitch Instructions
k:knit
ybwd: Move working yarn to back
p:purl
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining
st(s): stitch(es)
CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
BO: Bind off unwkd: unworked
sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
SSK: slip 1st sts knitwise, slip 2nd sts knitwise, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and k2tog. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer.)
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl1 st purl-wise, lift the st below the next st onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped st back onto the left needle and p2tog.
k enc (knit encroachment): sl1 st purl-wise, lift the st below the next st onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped st back onto the left needle and k2tog.
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal and parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase st if you prefer)
k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.)
I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire.

SOCK FROGGEE 1.0

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you

Click here for a printable version

Skill Level: Advanced
Suggested Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Materials: Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, Yarn 3 (Y3) Black yarn, 1 set Size #2 Double Pointed (DP) needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

*Note - I used larger yarn and needles in my sample so that the pictures would be clearer*

Stitch Instructions & Abbreviations
rem: remain(s), remaining
k:knit
p:purl
st(s): stitch(es)
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
unwkd: unworked
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal and parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.

Introduction You'll begin this critter by making the legs & placing them on a needle for later. Then you will begin the head & work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make the eyes, which will utilize some color work, & attach them. If you prefer to embroider the eyes, then make them using Y1 and Y2 only and embroider afterwards. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features & you are free to embellish him as you wish. You may want to work through the Turkish Cast On instructions a couple times, don’t be surprised if you have to start over a few times, it takes some getting used to. But it will be worth it. Enjoy.

Instructions: Arms (Make 2): *With Y1 CO 8 sts, divide onto 3 or 4 needles. Begin knitting in the round by working from the first st you casted on.
Rounds 1-4: k32.
Thumb: KFB in next 2 sts, slip next 6 sts onto a scrap piece of yarn for later, Work an icord for 12 sts.



*The next step doubles your stitches. KFB in each st until you have 8 sts & then knit all sts once. KFB in each st again until you have 16 sts & then knit all sts once again. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, slip each st onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all sts again, pulling tight to be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off, thread it down through the bulb, down through the shaft & out the other end and tie it to Y1 to begin working the other fingers.* Round 7: place the rem 6 sts back onto your needles and KFB in each st until you have 12 sts

Rounds 8-10: knit all sts. Now you are ready to start the fingers. You will work the fingers in a similar way to the thumb. Finger #1: Using the next 4 sts & placing the rem sts onto scrap yarn, work an I-cord for 16 sts. Repeat from * to *. Finger #2: Using the next 4 sts & placing the rem sts onto scrap yarn, work an I-cord for 24 sts & repeat from * to *. Finger #3: using the rem 4 sts, work an Icord for 16 sts, repeat from * to *, tie off yarn upon completion. Now is a good time to close up any gaps between fingers & to make sure the yarn tails are all secured into place.

Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the cast on edge. Tie the new working yarn Y2 to the tail left from the cast on. Using the outside loop of each cast on stitch, pick up 8 sts around the edge.Rounds 1-30: k240 (I like to count by hundreds). Close the arms by consoditating sts. You should now have 4 sts on one needle.

Arm #1: turn and purl across (this is important if you want your thumbs to be in the right place.) Cut yarn leaving enough that the sts don’t come undone, about 6 inches. Label as #1, this
will be important later.

Arm #2: Cut yarn leaving enough that the sts don’t come undone, about 6 inches. Label as #2, this will be important later. Transfer both to one needle as you complete them with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be important when you attach them to the body.

Legs (make 2): With Y1 CO 18 sts. Do not turn you’ll be knitting in the round by working from the first st you casted on.

Rounds 1-4: Knit all sts

(Leg #1: Skip ahead to Short Row Heel)

(Leg #2: knit 9 more stitches before continuing)

Short Row Heel work short rows back and forth on only 9 sts
Row 1: k9, turn,
Row 2: p7, turn,
Row 3: k6, turn,
Row 4: p5, turn,
Row 5: k4, turn,
Row 6: p3, p enc, turn,
Row 7: k4, k enc, turn,
Row 8: p5, p enc, turn,
Row 9: k6, k enc, turn,
Row 10: p7, p enc, turn one last time
Row 11:(Leg #1 sl1, k17)
(Leg #2: sl1, k8) you should now be at the start of each round again & will resume knitting in the round.

Rounds 5-8: k72 sts or 4 rounds (whichever you find easier). Now you are ready to start the toes.

Toe #1 Round 1: k3 stitches, slip next 12 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn for later, k3

Rounds 2-5: knit all sts

Round 6: The next step doubles your sts. KFB in each st until you have 12 sts

Round 7: knit all sts

Round 8: KFB in each st again until you have 24 sts

Round 9: knit all sts

Round 10: (k2tog tbl) x 12 leaving you with 12 sts (you can k2tog normally if
you choose, I just find it easier to k2tog tbl here). Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Using a
tapestry needle, slip each st onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all sts
a couple more times pulling tight each time to be sure to close the hole. Rather than
tying off, thread it down through the bulb, down through the shaft, out the other end
& tie it to Y1 to begin working other toes.*

Toe #2: You have 12 sts on scrap yarn, place the first 3 sts & the last 3 sts on your
needles. You should have 6 sts to work with and 6 sts on the scrap yarn.

Rounds 1-7: knit all sts.

Complete the bulb shaping of the toe by repeating from * to *.

Toe #3: You should have 6 sts on scrap yarn. Place them onto your needles and begin
Rounds 1-5: knit all sts.

Complete the bulb shaping of the toe by repeating from * to *.

Legs
Rounds 1-50: k900 (I like to count by hundreds), close each leg consolidating your sts. You should now have all sts on one needle,
(Leg #1: turn, purl all sts, turn again & knit all sts) Label as #1

(Leg #2: turn & purl all sts) Label as #2

Cut yarn leaving enough that the sts don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer both legs to one needle as you complete them with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be important when you attach them to the body. Be sure all pieces have purl side of final rows facing toward you before arranging all parts on one needle from Right to left as follows…
Arm #1, Arm #2, Leg #1, Leg #2

Head:
With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast On Method, CO 36 sts (18 wraps) Don’t forget to purl a row. *The slip-knot does not count as one of the sts. Work short rows across 2 DPNs with only 18 sts. Row 1: sl1, k16,(1 st rem unwd) turn,
Row 2: sl1, p15,(1 st rem unwkd) turn,
Row 3: sl1, k14,(2 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 4: sl1, p13,(2 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 5: sl1, k12,(3 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 6: sl1, p11,(3 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 7: sl1, k10,(4 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 8: sl1, p9,(4 sts rem unwkd), turn,
Row 9: sl1, k8,(5 sts rem unwkd), turn,
Row 10: sl1, p7, p enc, turn. (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: sl 1, k7, k enc twice. turn. (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: sl 1, p9, p enc, turn. (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: sl 1, k10, k enc, turn. (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: sl 1, p11, p enc, turn. (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: sl 1, p13, p enc, turn. (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 17: sl 1, k14, k enc, turn. (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 18: sl 1, purl all rem sts, do not p enc, turn.
Row 19: sl 1, knit all rem sts, do not k enc, do not turn

Now is a good time to remove the slip knot that you started with. Being working in the round by knitting the 18 sts that were formed during your cast on. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. You can move the yarn tail to the front of your work to mark the beginning of each round. (if for some reason you only have 17, don’t worry, you can just increase by one after 9 sts.) Rounds 1 & 2: knit all 36 sts.

Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y1 onto, and begin short rows again.

Snout:

*you’ll work short rows again here*
Row 1: k2, KFB 14 times, k2 (32 sts), turn,
Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st rem unwkd) turn,
Row 3: sl1, k29, (1 st rem unwkd) turn
Row 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts rem unwkd) turn
Row 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts rem unwkd) turn
Row 6: sl1, p26, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 7: sl1, k25, turn (3 sts rem unwkd
Row 8: sl1, p24, turn (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl1, k10, KFB twice, k11, turn, (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl1, p24, turn (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: repeat row 9 (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: repeat row 10 (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: repeat row 9 (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: repeat row 10 (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 15: repeat row 9 (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: sl1, p24, p enc, turn (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: sl1, k10, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k10, k enc twice, turn, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 18: repeat row 16 (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: sl1, k10, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k11, k enc, turn, (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 20: repeat row 16 (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 21: repeat row 19 (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 22: repeat row 16 (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 23 repeat row 16 (3 sts rem unwkd
Row 24: repeat row 16 (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 25: sl1, k25, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd
Row 26: sl1, p26, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd
Row 27: sl1, k27, k enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 28: sl1, p28, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 29: sl1, k29, k enc, turn.
Row 30: sl1, p30, p enc, turn,
Row 31: sl1, k1, k2tog 14 times, k2, do not turn, end short rows & you should have 36 sts again.
Switch to Y2 & k9. You are now ready to resume knitting in the round to complete the rest of the body.

Head continued:
Round 5: knit all sts
Round 6: k14, k2tog twice, k2tog tbl twice, k14 (32 sts)
Round 7: knit all sts
Round 8: k10, k2tog three times, k2tog tbl three tmes, k8 (26 sts)
Round 9: knit all sts
Round 10: k6, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k3, k2tog tbl, k6 (22 sts)
Round 11: knit all sts
Round 12: (k2, k2tog) twice, k6, (k2tog tbl) twice (18 sts)
Round 13: knit all sts
Body Section:
Round 14: k6, KFB, k4, KFB, k6 (20 sts)
Round 15: k6, KFB, k2, KFB twice, k2, KFB, k6 (24 sts)
Round 16: k6, KFB, k10, KFB, k6 (26 sts)
Round 17: k6, KFB, k5, KFB twice, K5, KFB, k6 (30 sts).
Round 18: k7, you are now going to consolidate the next 4 sts to be worked with the 4 sts on Arm #1. While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting, pick up the needle containing the arms so that you can see the purl side of the final row and place it in front of your work parallel to needle & consolidate. k8, & attach Arm #2 in the same manner as the first, k7.
Round 19: knit all sts,
Round 20: k7, KFB, k14, KFB, k7 (32 sts)
Round 21: k7, KFB, k7, KFB twice, k7, KFB, k7 (36 sts)
Round 22: k8, KFB, k18, KFB, k8 (38 sts)
Round 23: k8, KFB, k9, KFB twice, k9, KFB, k8 (42 sts)
Round 24: k8, KFB, k24, KFB, k8 (46 sts)
Round 25: k9, KFB, k11, KFB twice, k11, KFB, k9 (48 sts)
Round 26: knit all sts
Round 27: (k7, KFB) x 3, (KFB, k7) x 3 (54 sts)
Round 28: knit all sts
Round 29: (k8, KFB) x 3, (KFB, k8) x 3 (60 sts)
Rounds 30-38: knit all sts,
Round 39: (k2, k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog tbl, k4, (k2tog
tbl, k2) twice, (54 sts)
Round 40: knit all sts
Round 41: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog tbl, k6, k2tog tbl, k8, k2tog tbl, k3 (48 sts)
Round 42: k13. Now consolidate the next 9 sts to be worked with the sts on Leg #1. Remember to hold the leg so you can see the purl side of the final row. k4, & attach Leg #2 in the same manner. k13
Round 44: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 sts)
Round 45: k2, (k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4) twice, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36)
Round 46: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 sts), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 47: k1, (k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2) twice, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 sts)
Round 48: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 sts
Round 49: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 sts) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, & using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed &you can’t work from the inside.

Eyes (make 2):

Using Y2, and the Turkish Cast On Method, CO 36 sts (18 wraps), Don’t forget to purl a row. *The slip-knot does not count as one of the sts. Work short rows across 2 DPNs with only 9 sts. Work from chart until all rows have been completed. You should now have 18 sts on your DPN and 18 still on the circular needle. It will be easier to stitch the eye into place if you stuff it first. Cut yarn and thread it through all the sts using your tapestry needle.

Your completed eye will look like a neat little cup. Do not pull tight. Stuff with fiber fill & then pull tight enough that you cannot see any of the yarn tail through the colored parts to hold the stuffing in.

Stitch to the head along the lines that formed when you knitted/purled each encroachment.

I like to stitch the back of the eye into place first followed by the front part. It stays in place easier this way.

Finishing: Weave in any loose ends. Embroider nostrils and a froggee smile. Chain Stitch along the lines on either side of the snout and dip slightly as you near the front

Voila!!! You now have your very first Sock Froggee!!!

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You are of course free to embellish him any way you wish.

Stitch Consolidation

To consolidate your stitches: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles holding them in your left hand with the working yarn on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are on the front needle and the stitches you just worked are on the back needle.) The next step will be to k2tog using one stitch from the front needle and one stitch from the back needle. Now let's break it down. For the purpose of this instruction I have used contrasting yarns.

Step 1: Divide Stitches evenly between two needles
and hold them in your left hand. (For tubular pieces, be
sure that the stitches you just worked are on the back needle.)





Step 2: Insert right hand needle knitwise into the first stich on the front needle. Do not slip the stitch off of the left needle yet.





Step 3: Insert right hand needle knitwise into the first stitch on the back needle.





Step 4: k2tog.





Repeat Steps 2-4 until you have consolidated all stitches.





This is what the wrong side will look like...





...and this is what the right side will look like.