New Pattern Coming Soon!

I would like to introduce the newest member of our little sock animal family. Inspired by the Build-A-Bear Orange Tabby (which has been discontinued). I will be working this pattern up and will have it available for purchase as of January 1st through ravelry. Of course this guy does not have to be a Orange Tabby or even a Tabby for that matter, but I will be adjusting his ears to be a little smaller for the final version.

I was once young and naive in thinking that writing patterns was really no big deal. Well now I'm not so naive (and definately not so young). I have learned so much this past couple of years, and realize there are many aspects to writing patterns that I never even considered. I appreciate all the support that I have gotten and want to continue sharing most of my patterns royalty free and at no charge. However some of the more developed patterns I will have to start collecting a small fee. I do want to apologize in advance for this and let everyone know that it was a very tough decision for me to come to. I hope for your continued interest, inspiration, and feedback.

Thank you

2009 Sock Turtle Pattern

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification.

Don’t forget to share your images with us!

Click here to access a previous version

Begin this pattern by making the legs, head and tail. Once complete, you will begin the body and attach the limbs as you go. As you complete each limb, place onto a spare needle with the purl side of the final row facing you. The limbs should be placed onto the spare needle, from right to left starting with the tail, then two legs, the head, followed by the other two legs.

Tail:
With Y1 and using the Turkish Cast On method, cast on 12 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Now is a good time to remove the slip knot. Slide the circular needle in a leftward direction to put into working position and knit those stitches.
Rounds 1-4: knit. k3 in preparation for the next step. Consolidate stitches (see instructions). Cut yarn leaving enough so that the stitches don’t come undone. Slip onto spare needle.

Legs (make 4)
With Y1 and using the Turkish Cast On method, cast on 24 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches.

Row 1: Sl 1, k until1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Now is a good time to remove the slip knot. Slide the circular needle in a leftward direction to put into working position and knit those stitches.

Head:
*Pay special attention to the shaping for this piece or your turtle head will be crooked. Using Y1 and the provisional cast on technique, CO 16, turn,
Row 1: p16, turn,
Row 2: (begin short rows) sl1, k14, turn,
Row 3: sl1, p13, turn,
Row 4: sl1, k12, turn,
Row 5: sl1, p11, turn,
Row 6: sl1, k10, turn,
Row 7: sl1, p9, turn,
Row 8: sl1, k8, turn,
Row 9: sl1, p7, p enc, turn,
Row 10: sl1, k8, k enc, turn,
Row 11: sl1, p9, p enc, turn,
Row 12: sl1, k10, k enc, turn,
Row 13: sl1, p11, p enc, turn,
Row 14: sl1, k12, k enc, turn,
Row 15: sl1, p14, do not p enc, turn,
Row 16: sl1, k15, do not k enc, do not turn,
Row 17: . (Begin knitting in the round, you may need to tug on the tail of yarn that remains from the cast on, because it will loosen up as you work. I like to weave mine in and out of the next few rows so that I can use it later on) pick up 16 stitches along the cast on edge,

Rounds 1-5: knit,
Round 6:(k1, k2tog, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches left)
Round 7: knit,
Round 8: k1 (k2tog, k1) 2 times, (k1, k2tog, 2 times), 16, (24 stitches left)
Round 9: knit,
Round 10: (k2tog, k4) 4 times, (20 stitches left),
Round 11: knit,
Round 12: (k2tog, k2, k2tog k4) twice, (16 stitches left)
Round 13: knit,
Round 14: (k2tog) twice, k4, (k2tog) twice, k4, you should now have 12 stitches. k4, Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches your desired firmness, consolidate stitches. P2tog, entire row (6 stitches) Cut yarn leaving enough so that the stitches don’t come undone. Slip onto spare needle.

Belly:
Row 1: With Y2 CO 60, join ends and begin knitting in the round.
Row 2: knit,
Row 3: (k2, k2tog, k2) 10 times (50 stitches remain),
Row 4: knit,
Row 5: (k1, k2tog, k2) 10 times (40 stitches remain),
Row 6: knit,
Row 7: (k1, k2tog, k1) 10 times (30 stitches remain)
Row 8: knit,
Row 9: (k1, k2tog, k2) 6 times (24 stitches remain)
Row 10: knit,
Row 11: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times (18 stitches remain),
Row 12: knit,
Row 13: (k1, k2tog) 6 times, (12 stitches remain)
Row 14: (k2tog) 6 times, k1 (6 stitches remain). Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and using a tapestry needle, thread it through all the stitches removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight and tie off on the purl side of the work. Don’t worry if it does not lay flat of if it looks kind of small, it will stretch out with the next few rows.

To set up for attaching the limbs, head, & tail, turn your work around and begin working with the cast on edge. Hold the piece in your hand with the knit side facing you. Tie the new working yarn to the tail left from the cast on. This is a good place to use a 12 inch circular needle if you have one. Using the outside loop of each cast on stitch to pick up 59 stitches around the edge. Pick up one additional stitch using any loop of the space remaining to total 60 stitches.

Round 1: knit, Pick up the belly section holding it with the knitted side facing you as if you were going to resume. Now hold the tail in front of the belly section and align both needles parallel to each other so that the next stitches to be worked are directly behind the stitches of the tail. Consolidate stitches. You should now have the working yarn on the right and the consolidated stitches on the needle just to the left of it. Round 2: To attach the tail, k2tog (one belly stitch and one tail stitch) 6 times, k1. Now attach the first leg in the same fashion, k10, attach the second leg, k1, attach the head, k1, attach the third leg, and knit until only 7 stitches remain. Attach leg 4, and k4. You should now be ready to begin the rounds of the shell and you should still have 60 stitches.

Body:
Rounds 3-4: purl,
Rounds 5-14: k60
Round 15: (k4, k2tog, k4) 6 times (54 stitches)
Round 16: knit,
Round 17: (k3, k2tog, k4) 6 times (48 stitches)
Round 18: knit
Round 19: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times (42 stitches)
Round 20: knit
Round 21: (k3, k2tog, k2) 6 times (36 stitches)
Round 22: knit
Round 23: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times (30 stitches). Take a moment to stuff the bottom half of the body but don’t stuff too full. You will be stuffing more before you close the top.
Round 24: knit
Round 25: (k2, k2tog, k1) 6 times (24 stitches)
Round 26: knit
Round 27: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times (18 stitches)
Round 28: knit
Round 29: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches).
Round 30: knit. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining stitches removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill until your desired firmness, pull tight and tie off.

Finishing:
Now embroider on his facial features and voila! You have your very first sock turtle.

2009 Sock Hippo Pattern

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

Visit http://www.mybootee.com/ for active links to techniques or to print additional copies of this pattern. Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification.
Don’t forget to share your images with us!

You'll begin this critter by making the legs and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make a tail, the ears, and the horns and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.

Legs (make 4):
With Y1 CO 24 stitches. Do not turn. You’ll be knitting in the round by working from the first stitch you casted on.
Round 1: knit
Round 2: (k8, inc 1,) 3 times. (27 stitches)
Round 3: knit
Round 4: (k9, inc 1,) 3 times, (30 stitches)
Round 5: knit
Round 6: purl
Round 7: knit
Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches),
Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches)
Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off.

Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the knit side and begin working with the cast on edge. Switch to Y2 and pick up 24 stitches along the cast on edge.
Round 1: knit
Round 2: (k6, k2tog,) 3 times (21 stitches)
Round 3: knit
Round 4: (k5, k2tog,) 3 times (18 stitches)

Rounds 5-8: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill and close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer all legs to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.

Head:
With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast-On Method, wrap yarn counter clockwise from left to right 16 times. This gives you 32 stitches, but you will work short rows on only 16 for now.
Row 1: sl1, k14, (1 st remains unworked) turn,
Row 2: sl1, p13, (1 st remains unworked) turn,
Row 3: sl1, k12, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 4: sl1, p11, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 5: sl1, k10, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 6: sl1, p9, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 7: sl1, k8, (4 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 8: sl1, p7, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 9: sl1, k8, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 10: sl1, p9, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 11: sl1, k10, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 12: sl1, p11, p enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 13: sl1, k12, k enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 14: sl1, purl accross, (you will not p enc here, because you should be at the end of the row) turn,
Row 15: sl1, knit across.

Begin working rounds now. Slide your circular needle into place and just continue knitting the stitches along the cast on edge. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. (Now is a good time to start using your DP needles or if you prefer can use two circulars). Once you knit the stitches along the cast on edge, move the yarn tail to the front of your work. It will mark the beginning of each round.
Rounds 1-5: knit, Snout:
Row 1: This step doubles the next 16 stitches. Begin short rows again only working 16 stitches with Y1. (inc 1, k1) 8 times (k1, inc 1) 8 times (32 stitches), turn, (I use a backward loop cast on or a “inc 1”. if you can’t decide on a good increase method, you can KFB all 16 stitches for your first time through this pattern.)
Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 3: sl1, k29, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 6: sl1, p26, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 7: sl1, k25, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 8: sl1, p24, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 9: sl1, k23, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 10: sl1, p22, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 11: sl1, k21, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 12: sl1, p20, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 13: sl1, k19, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 14: sl1, p18, (7 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 15: sl1, k17, k enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 16: sl1, p18, p enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 17: sl1, k19, k enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 18: sl1, p20, p enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 19: sl1, k21, k enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 20: sl1, p22, p enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 21: sl1, k23, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 22: sl1, p24, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 23: sl1, k25, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 24: sl1, p26, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 25: sl1, k27, k enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 26: sl1, p28, p enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 27: sl1, k29, k enc, turn
Row 28: sl1, p30, p enc, turn
Row 29: sl1, k31, do not k enc, do not turn. Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y2 onto and resume working in the round by knitting the next 16 stitches. You should now be at the beginning of each round once again.

Head cont:…
Round 6: (k2tog) 16 times. k16, (you should have 32 stitches total)
Round 7: knit 9:
Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches)
Round 9: knit
Round 10: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 stitches). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.
rounds 11-12: knit.

Body:
Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on.
Round 1: (k4, inc 1, k4) 3 times (27 stitches)
Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, Inc 1, k9, Inc 1, k8, Inc 1, k5 (30 stitches)
Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together.

While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting. Pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row. Hold the body needle and the leg needle parallel so that the body is farthest away from you and the leg is in the front. Consolidate (see instructions below) the next 9 stitches of the body with the 9 stitches of the leg. Now attach a second leg in the same manner as the first, k6 to finish off the round

Round 5: knit
Round 6: k5, inc 1, knit to last 5, inc 1, k5 (32 stitches)
Round 7: knit
Round 8: k5, inc 1, k8, inc1, k2, inc1, k8, inc 1, k5 (36 stitches)
Round 9: knit
Round 10: k6, inc 1, k to last 6, inc 1, k6 (38 stitches)
Round 11: knit
Round 12: k6, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k2, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k6 (42 stitches)
Round 13: knit
Round 14: (k7, inc 1) twice, k5, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k5,(inc 1, k7) twice (48 stitches)
Round 15: knit
Round 16: (k8, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k8) twice (54 stitches)
Round 17: knit
Round 18: (k9, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k6, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k9) twice (60 stitches). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle.
Rounds 19-26: knit,
Round 27: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice, (54 stitches)
Round 28: knit,
Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 stitches)
Round 30: k13. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions below) for one leg only. k4, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k13,
Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 stitches)
Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 stitches)
Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)
Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Ears (make 2):
Row 1: Using Y2 CO 18 stitches, turn,
Row 2: sl1, p2tog 8 times, p1, turn,
Row 3: sl1, k2tog 4 times, k1, do not turn, cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the 6 remaining stitches pull tight. Fold the ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom edge together. Secure each ear to the top of the head along the line where you began to work the encroachment stitch earlier.

Finishing: Embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first Sock Hippo. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.

© 2008 Mybootee Boutique

2009 Babee Sox

Required Materials:
210 yards of Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn
1 set DP needles size 2
1 circular needle size 2
(or size to obtain guage)

Gauge 7s x 10r = 1 inch
Makes 7 different sizes!

Infant Shoe Sizes: 1-2 & 3-4
Toddler Shoe Sizes 5-7, 8-10, &11-13
Children’s Shoe Sizes 1-3 & 4-6
*Note: Sizes are designed to fit chubby little feet. If you child has narrow or slender feet, you may want to size down.

Stitch Instructions & Abbreviations:
(visit us at http://www.mybootee.com/ for images and active links to these techniques)
P enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, purl together.
K enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, knit together.
Turkish Cast on: While holding one DP parallel above circular needle, with tips aligned. Secure your working yarn into place. Wrap yarn counter clockwise to the right, around both needles half as many times as cast on stitches.


Start Here
Using the Turkish Cast On method cast on 24 (28, 36, 42, 50, 54, 56) stitches (12/14/18/21/25/27/28 wraps). Work Short Row Toe until you complete Row 28.

Infant Sizes Only:
Work Rows 1-8 & 25-28

Toddler Sizes Only:
5-10: Work Rows 1-10 & 23-28
11-13: 1-12 & 21-28

Children’s Sizes Only:
Work all rows of short row toe except where indicated.

Short Row Toe
(turn your work at the end of each row)
Row 1: purl all sts
Row 2: sl1, k until 1 sts remains unworked,
Row 3: sl1, p until 1 st remains unworked,
Row 4: sl1, k until 2 sts remain unworked,
Row 5: sl1, p until 2 sts remain unworked,
Row 6: sl1, k until 3 sts remain unworked,
Row 7: sl1, p until 3 sts remain unworked,
(Infant sizes only: p enc)
Row 8: sl1, k until 4 sts remain unworked,
(Infant sizes only: k enc twice)
Row 9: sl1, p until 4 sts remain unworked,
(Toddler 5-10 only: p enc )
Row 10: sl1, k until 5 sts remain unworked,

(Toddler 5-10 only: k enc twice )
Row 11: p until 5 sts remain unworked,
(Toddler 11-13 only: p enc)
Row 12: k until 6 sts remain unworked,
(Toddler 11-13 only: k enc twice)
Row 13: p until 6 sts remain unworked,
(Children’s 1-3 only: p enc)
Row 14: k until 7 sts remain unworked,
(Children’s 1-3 only: k enc twice)
Row 15: p until 7 sts remain unworked,
(Children’s 4-6 only: p enc)
Row 16: sl1, k until 8 sts remain unworked
(Children’s 4-6 only: k enc twice)

Row 17: sl1, p until 6 sts remain unworked, p enc,
Row 18: sl1 k until 6 sts remain unworked, k enc,
Row 19: sl1, p until 5 sts remain unworked, p enc,
Row 20: sl1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, k enc,
Row 21: sl1, p until 4 sts remain unworked , p enc,
Row 22: sl1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, k enc,
Row 23: sl1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, p enc,
Row 24: sl1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, k enc,
Row 25: sl1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, p enc,
Row 26: sl1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, k enc,
Row 27: sl1, p across, do not p enc,
Row 28: sl1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn




Here’s where you start working in the round. Pick up where you left off and just continue knitting the stitches on the circular needle as shown in the image. Once you get back to the needle that you started with knit half of them which puts you at the beginning of each round from here on.



Your finished toe should look like this.

Set up for the foot:
k4(6, 8, 10, 13, 17, 19, 20) stitches, (k2, m1) 8 times, k4(6, 8, 10, 13, 17, 19, 20)

Foot
Work rounds of the foot as follows….

Infant sizes only
1-2: Rounds 1-26: k7, p2, work a k2 p2 ribbing until 7 sts remain unworked, p1, k6
3-4: Rounds 1-31: k9, p2, work a k2 p2 ribbing until 8 sts remain unworked, k8

Toddler Sizes Only
5-7: Rounds 1-37: k10, p2, work a k2 p2 ribbing until 11 sts remain unworked, p1, k10
8-10: Rounds 1-44: k12, p2, work a k2 p2 ribbing until 12 sts remain unworked, p1, k11
11-13: Rounds 1-49: k13, p2, work a k2 p2 ribbing until 14 sts remain unworked, p1, k13

Children’s Sizes Only
1-3: Rounds 1-56: k14, p2, work a k2 p2 ribbing until 14 sts remain unworked, p1, k15
4-6: Rounds 1-60: k16, p2, work k2 p2 ribbing until 15 sts remain unworked, p1, k14
To set up for the heel turning:
Use your circular needle to work another round until 8 (9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16,) remain unworked. The use of the circular needle during this step makes heel turning much easier. Place the next 16 (18, 22, 26, 28, 30, 32,) sts only evenly onto two DP needles.
Short Row Heel

On DP needles only, knit across until 1 st remains unworked. Repeat the instructions for short row toe beginning with Row 3 B and working the rows appropriate for the size you chose. You should end with Row 28.
Row 29: sl1, p until one st remains unworked, p enc using the st below next st on circular needle.
Row 30: sl1, k until one sts remains unworked, k enc using the sts below using next sts on circular needle. Do not turn. You have now completed turning the heel and this is what your sock should look like.

Knit stitches as they appear for the remaining 24 (18, 22, 24, 30, 32, 32,) sts of the round. You are now back at the beginning of each round.

Next 6 Rounds all sizes: Work same as rounds of the foot.

For toddler sizes 8-10, 11-13,
& children’s size 1-3:
Next 44(49, 56) Rounds: work 2 x 2 ribbing

For all other sizes:
Next 26(31, 37, 60) Rounds: p1, work 2 x 2 ribbing.

Bind of using the Tubular bind off method to assure a nice stretchy cuff, weave in loose ends and voila!

2009 Sock Monkee 2.1

Ok everyone, I have worked and worked and worked this pattern until I finally feel like its ready for public scrutiny. I think I have done a pretty good job at getting it squared away and am most eager to receive any comments about how I can improve upon this design. There is minimal finishing work on this little guy and his limbs are all attached as his body is knitted. Please, if you find an error or a spot that could use more clarification, let me know and I will take care of it. Thank you and good luck!

Sock Monkee 2.1
Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, 1 skein red DMC floss or 2-3 yards of red sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

Visit http://www.mybootee.com/ for active links to techniques. To request additional copies of this pattern, if you have questions, if you need clarification, email us at mybb@comcast.net Don’t forget to share your images with us!

You'll begin this critter by making the legs/tail and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs/tail at intervals. Once the body is complete the eyes/ears and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy. Legs (make 2): With Y1 and using the Turkish Cast On method, cast on 20 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches.

Row 1: Sl 1, k until1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Now is a good time to remove the slip knot. Slide the circular needle in a leftward direction to put into working position and knit those stitches.
Rounds 1-14: Knit. Switch to Y2
Rounds 15-44: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill and close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 10 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer each leg to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.

Tail:
With Y1, and your favorite cast on method, CO 4, do not turn, knit an iCord for approximately 14 rounds. Switch to Y2, continue knitting iCord until tail measures about 2 inches longer than the legs. There is no need to consolidate these 4 stitches, just cut yarn and transfer to your spare needle or scrap yarn.

Arms: (make 2): With Y1 and using the Turkish Cast On method, cast on 16 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Don’t forget to purl the first row and turn,

Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs and continue knitting in the round.
Rounds 1-10: Knit. Switch to Y2
Rounds 11-34: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill and close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 7live stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer to your spare needle, scrap of yarn, or stitch saver tool with the purl side of the final row facing you.

Head: With Y1 and using the Turkish Cast-On Method, cast on 40 stitches. (You may substitute the Provisional cast on)
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 19: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs, k20, switch to Y2. You’ll begin knitting in the round by knitting all 40 stitches. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work, also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. Start knitting the stitches from the circular needle. Now bring your yarn tail forward, to mark the start of each round.

Rounds 1-14: knit, Snout:
This part is worked the same as the top of the head, in short rows across only two needles with only 20 sts. *I f you are using 4 double points, slip the last 20 stitches worked on your circular needle for ease. And work the next 20 with three needles. If you are using two circulars, you will simply work short rows on one circular needle.

Row 1: k 2, KFB 4 times, k until the last six stitches of the round, KFB 4 times, k2, turn, (28 sts)
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 8 sts remain, k enc, turn, (7 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain, p enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain, k enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain, p enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 19: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain, k enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 20: Sl 1, p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 21: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 22: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 23: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 24: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 25: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 26: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 27: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 28: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 29: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Switch to Y2. Begin knitting in the round. K10 stitches and you should now be at the back of the head for the beginning of each round from now on.
Head cont.
Round 15: k12, k2tog four times, k8, k2tog 4 times, k12 (40 sts)
Round 16: knit
Round 17: k8, k2tog twice, k16, k2tog twice, k8 (36 sts)
Rounds 18: knit
Round 19: k7, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k7 (30 stitches)
Round 20: knit
Round 21: k6, k2tog twice, (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, k6 (24 stitches). Now you should have what looks like a really short fat sock with a white heel and white toe.
Rounds 22 & 23: Knit
Body:
Round 24: k4, KFB, k14, KFB, k4 (26 stitches)
Round 25: k4, KFB, k6, KFB, k2, KFB, k6, KFB, k4 (30 stitches)
Round 26: knit
Round 27: k4, you’ll now consolidate the next 8 stitches with the 8 stitches on one arm. To do this, hold the body section in your left hand and place the first arm in front of the body section with the purl side of final row facing you. Consolidate the stitches (see instructions), k6, consolidate the next arm with the next 8 sts, k4
Round 28: knit
Round 29: k5, KFB, k18, KFB, k5 (32 stitches)
Round 30: k5, KFB, k8, KFB, k2, KFB, k8, KFB, k5 (36 stitches)
Round 31: knit
Round 32: k6, KFB, k22, KFB, k6 (38 stitches)
Round 33: k6, KFB, k10, KFB, k2, KFB, k10, KFB, k6 (42 stitches)
Round 34: knit
Round 35: k7, KFB, k26, KFB, k7 (44 stitches)
Round 36: k7, KFB, k12, KFB, k2, KFB, k12, KFB, k7 (48 stitches)
Round 37: knit
Round 38: k8, KFB, k13, KFB, k2, KFB, k13, KFB, k8 (52 stitches)
Rounds 39 – 59: knit

Round 60: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k24, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog. You should have 2 sts left before the end of the round. Now attach the tail using the consolidation method (see instructions), which you used earlier with the arms. This puts you 2 sts into the next round. (46 stitches)
Round 61: knit 44.
Round 62: (k2, k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2) twice, k2, (40 stitches)

Switch to Y1
Round 63: k10. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions) for one leg only, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k10
Round 64: knit
Round 65: k4, (k2tog, k8) three times, k2tog, k4 (36 stitches)
Round 66: knit
Round 67: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 68: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)
Round 69: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 70: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 71: k2tog 6 times, cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches but do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Eyes:
Using Y1, CO 16 sts, join ends and knit in the round,
Round 1: knit,
Round 2: [k2tog] 8 times,
Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail and using a tapestry needle thread it through the stitches, removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight enough to close any gap, then pass the needle from front to back through the center of the eye. Now pass the needle through the head at the point where you’d like the eyes to be centered. This tacks the eye into place a little so that you can stitch it into place with a needle and thread.

Ears:
Using Y2 and the Turkish Cast On Method, CO 24, turn
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 10: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn (end short rows)
Begin Rounds:
Rounds 1-3: knit,
Divide stitches evenly onto two DP needles, Stuff the ears with a little poly fill and consolidate as you did for the legs and arms. You now have 12 live stitches. Cut yarn to leave about a 12 inch tail and use it to secure the ears to the head along the column of stitches that lead from the edge of the snout to the top of the head. There should be about 14 and you can just stitch them into place as evenly as possible. I like to work with two sts at a time. Run the through the first two stitches on the ear, then through the first two sts on the head. Then just repeat this and tie off.

Finishing: Embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very own Sock Monkee 2.1. Use a Basic Chain stitch to embroider on the mouth and eyebrows. Use a Star Stitch to finish the eyes, And to complete the nose you will use a Detatched Chain Stitch to ebroider on two nostrils and Voila! You have your very own Sock Monkee 2.1!


© 2008 Mybootee Boutique

New Ornament

Hi everyone!

I wanna thank everyone who came out to see us at the Old World Christmas Market this year and helped us make the event a success. Look for us again next year. We made some new friends this year at the market as well as caught up with some old ones. One of our new friends is Beverly at Beverly Hill's Bakery. I have to say that I don't eat pie crust but hers is the best I've had. My fav is the Triple Berry Pie. Just the right amount of sweet and tart and in warm with a little vanilla bean ice cream.....ok enough said. I might have to go get another one this weekend.

I want to introduce everyone to our latest little ornament. This little guy has been very popular and is currently only available through special order. Wait a minute, I guess if you've been to my website, you would probably have to say that about everything we have except the hand painted yarn. Too busy, what else can I say? Well here he is!

...and this is my favorite part!

2009 Sock Giraffe Pattern

When adding erratta for my hippo pattern on Ravelry, it occurred to me that the "Updated version" of the pattern is no longer updated. I have taught this little guy several times and have had some valuable input from students about parts that may be confusing. Even though I know that no matter how hard I try someone somewhere will be unclear about my instructions, I will attempt to continue development of this and other patterns until I am satisfied that the maximum number of people can understand them. So if you have an old version of this guy, click here. From their you can find the earliest version if that is the one you have. If this guy has been on your list but you have not begun, or if this is the first time you have seen it, I recommend this version. Enjoy and please let me know if you have any questions, I am always happy to respond.

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill



You'll begin this critter by making the legs and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make a tail, the ears, and the horns and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.

Hoofs (make 4): With Y1 and a "Long Tail Cast On" CO 24 stitches. Do not turn. You’ll be knitting in the round by working from the first stitch you casted on.
Rounds 1, 3, 5, & 7: knit
Round 2: (k8, inc 1,) 3 times. (27 stitches)
Round 4: (k9, inc 1,) 3 times, (30 stitches)
Round 6: purl
Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches),
Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches)
Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off. You have completed a "hoof"

Legs:
With Y2 pick up 24 stitches along the cast on edge.
Rounds 1 & 3: knit
Round 2: (k6, k2tog,) 3 times (21 stitches)
Round 4: (k5, k2tog,) 3 times (18 stitches)

Rounds 5-24: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill and close using the consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer all legs to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.

Head: With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast-On Method, wrap yarn counter clockwise from left to right 16 times. This gives you 32 stitches, but you will work short rows on only 16 for now.
Row 1: sl1, k14, (1 st remains unworked) turn,
Row 2: sl1, p13, (1 st remains unworked) turn,
Row 3: sl1, k12, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 4: sl1, p11, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 5: sl1, k10, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 6: sl1, p9,(3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 7: sl1, k8, (4 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 8: sl1, p7, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 9: sl1, k8, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 10: sl1, p9, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 11: sl1, k10, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 12: sl1, p11, p enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 13: sl1, k12, k enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 14: sl1, purl accross, (you will not p enc here, because you should be at the end of the row) turn,
Row 15: sl1, knit across.

Begin working rounds now. Slide your circular needle into place and just continue knitting the stitches along the cast on edge. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. (Now is a good time to start using your DP needles or if you prefer can use two circulars). Once you knit the stitches along the cast on edge, move the yarn tail to the front of your work. It will mark the beginning of each round.

Rounds 1-5: knit,

Snout:
Row 1: This step doubles the next 16 stitches. Begin short rows again only working 16 stitches with Y1. (inc 1, k1) 8 times (k1, inc 1) 8 times (32 stitches), turn, (I use a backward loop cast on or a “inc 1”. if you can’t decide on a good increase method, you can KFB all 16 stitches for your first time through this pattern.)
Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 3: sl1, k29, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 6: sl1, p26, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 7: sl1, k25, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 8: sl1, p24, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 9: sl1, k23, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 10: sl1, p22, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 11: sl1, k21, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 12: sl1, p20, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 13: sl1, k19, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 14: sl1, p18, (7 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 15: sl1, k17, k enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 16: sl1, p18, p enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 17: sl1, k19, k enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 18: sl1, p20, p enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 19: sl1, k21, k enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 20: sl1, p22, p enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 21: sl1, k23, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 22: sl1, p24, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 23: sl1, k25, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 24: sl1, p26, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 25: sl1, k27, k enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 26: sl1, p28, p enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn
Row 27: sl1, k29, k enc, turn
Row 28: sl1, p30, p enc, turn
Row 29: sl1, k31, do not k enc, do not turn. Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y2 onto and resume working in the round by knitting the next 16 stitches. You should now be at the beginning of each round once again.

Head cont:…
Round 6: (k2tog) 16 times. k16, (you should have 32 stitches total)
Rounds 7 & 9: knit
Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches)
Round 10: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 stitches). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.

Rounds 11-30: knit,
Stuff the head & neck with fiber-fill. Tamper filling until it reaches your desired firmness. Don’t stuff too full and don’t stuff up to the needles or you will end up with fibers in your knitting which are difficult to remove.

Body: Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on.
Round 1: (k4, KLL, k4) 3 times (27 stitches)
Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, Inc 1, k9, Inc 1, k8, Inc 1, k5 (30 stitches)
Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together.

While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting. Pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row. Hold the body needle and the leg needle parallel so that the body is farthest away from you and the leg is in the front. Consolidate (see instructions below) the next 9 stitches of the body with the 9 stitches of the leg. Now attach a second leg in the same manner as the first, k6 to finish off the round

Rounds 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, &: knit,
Round 6: k5, inc 1, knit to last 5, inc 1, k5 (32 stitches)
Round 8: k5, inc 1, k8, inc1, k2, inc1, k8, inc 1, k5 (36 stitches)
Round 10: k6, inc 1, k to last 6, inc 1, k6 (38 stitches)
Round 12: k6, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k2, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k6 (42 stitches)
Round 14: (k7, inc 1) twice, k5, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k5,(inc 1, k7) twice (48 stitches)
Round 16: (k8, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k8) twice (54 stitches)
Round 18: (k9, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k6, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k9) twice (60 stitches). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle.
Rounds 19-26: knit,
Round 27: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice,(54 stitches)
Round 28: knit,
Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 stitches)
Round 30: k13. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions below) for one leg only. k4, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k13,
Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 stitches)
Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 stitches)
Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)
Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Ears (make 2):
Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn,
Rows 2-3: work 2 rows of garter stitch, turn,
Row 4-5: k1, KFB, knit across, Row 6: knit across.
Rows 7-9: repeat rows 4-6. You should have 10 stitches
Rows 10-14: knit across, turn, Rows 15-23: sl1, k1, PSSO, first stitch, knit to end. You should now have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.Horns (make 2): With Y1, CO 4 and knit an I-cord for 24 stitches. The next step doubles your stitches. KFB in each stitch until you have 8 and then knit all stitches once. KFB in each stitch again until you have 16 stitches and then knit all stitches once. Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, slip each stitch onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all stitches a couple more times pulling tight each time to be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off, thread it down through the bulb on top of the horn, down through the shaft of the horn and out the other end. Use this to attach the horn to the head at top where you began working the encroachment during the head shaping. They will be spaced approximately ¾ inch apart and there will be a small space between the horns and the ears as well. Tie off any remaining ends.

Finishing:
For the tail, cut three 12-24 inch strands of yarn, thread them through a couple of stitches on the back of the giraffe on the row just above where you began decreasing to finish him off. Braid and tie off so that it looks kind of like a little broom. Now embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first sock giraffe. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.

Embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first Sock Giraffe! You are free to embellish him any way you wish.