Mybootee.com

WHIRLY GIG SCARF PATTERN

2011-07-26T13:01:00.000-07:00

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS BLOCKED

5 inches (12.5 cm) x 50 inches (125 cm)

YARN:

420 yards (384 meters) sock yarn (or about 10 yards {9.1 meters} of yarn per 1 inch {2.5 cm} of completed Project)

NEEDLES:

Size #4 (3.5 mm) knitting needles

NOTIONS:

Tapestry needle

2 Locking Stitch Markers

GAUGE:

5 sts x 7 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm) stockinette stitch (proper gauge is not essential but cable definition & yarn requirements may vary)

ABBREVIATION & STITCH GUIDE
P – Purl
K – Knit
CO – Cast on
St(s) – Stitch(es)
PM – Place marker
RM – Remove marker
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
PPSO – Pass previous stitch over
M1 – Increase 1 stitch by lifting bar before next stitch with right needle onto left needle. Knit through back loop.

NOTES:

• Unless otherwise indicated, Use the backward loop method to CO.
• Unless otherwise stated, slip markers when needed.
• Ruffles & ribs form with each 8-row repeat.
• Each time you CO 24, it is the start of a new ruffle.
• Finished scarf is not rectangular.

INCREASE SECTION:

1st ruffle:
Use your favorite basic method & CO 24.
Rows 1 & 2: P to end.
Row 3: K to end.
Row 4: P to end.
Row 5: K2tog to end. (12 sts)
Row 6: K to end.
Row 7: K2tog to end. (6 sts)
Row 8: K to end. CO 24 (2nd ruffle).

Here’s what your work looks like after Row 8.

2nd, 3rd, 4th, & 5th ruffles:
NOTE: This is the section to repeat if you want a wider scarf.

*Row 1: P24 & PM. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 2: (P3, k3) to marker. P to end.
Row 3: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 4: (P3, k3) to marker. P to end.
Row 5: K2tog to marker. (P3, k3) to end. (18, 24, 30, 36 sts)
Row 6: (P3, k3) to marker. K to end.
Row 7: K2tog to marker. (P3, k3) to end. (12, 18, 24, 30 sts)
Row 8: (P3, k3) to marker & RM. K to end. CO 24.* (54 sts)

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Here's what you have after Row 8 again before you CO sts.

BODY:

*Row 1: P24 & PM. (p3, k3) to last 6 & PM. (m1, k1) to end (60 sts).
Row 2: K to marker. (P3, k3) to marker. P to end.
Row 3: K to marker. (P3, k3) to marker. (m1, k1) to end. (72 sts)
Row 4: K to marker. (P3, k3) to marker. P to end.
Row 5: K2tog to marker. (P3, k3) to marker. P to end. (60 sts)
Row 6: K to marker. (P3, k3) to marker. K to end.
Row 7: K2tog to marker. (P3, k3) to marker. K to end. (54 sts)
Row 8: K1. (K1, PPSO) to marker & RM. P1, PPSO. P2, k3. (P3, k3) to marker & RM. K to end. CO 24.*

Repeat from *to* until you have about 50 yards left. Do not CO 24 after last repeat.

DECREASE SECTION: (30 sts)
NOTE: This is the section to repeat if you want a wider scarf.

*Row 1: (p3, k3) to last 6 & PM. (m1, k1) to end. (36, 30, 24, 18 sts)
Row 2: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 3: (P3, k3) to marker. (m1, k1) to end. (48, 42, 36, 30 sts)
Row 4: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 5: (P3, k3) to marker. P to end.
Row 6: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 7: (P3, k3) to marker. K to end.
Row 8: K1. (K1, PPSO) to marker & RM. P1, PPSO. P2, k3. PM. (P3, k3) to end.* (24, 18, 12 sts)

Repeat from *to* until you have 12 sts left.

Row 1: (p3, k3) to last 6 & PM. (m1, k1) to end. (18 sts)
Row 2: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 3: (P3, k3) to marker. (m1, k1) to end. (30 sts)
Row 4: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 5: (P3, k3) to marker. P to end.
Row 6: K to marker. (P3, k3) to end.
Row 7: (P3, k3) to marker. K to end.
Row 8: K1. (K1, PPSO) to marker & RM. (P3, k3). (7 sts)

LAST RUFFLE:
Row 1: K1, (m1, K1) to last st. (13 sts)
Row 2: K to end.
Row 3: K1, (m1, K1) to last st. (24 sts)
Row 4: K to end.
Row 5: P to end.
Rows 6 & 7: K to end.
Row 8: K1. (K1, PPSO) to end.

Use tapestry needle to weave in loose ends, block & enjoy!

2011-07-13T21:23:00.000-07:00

Just wanted to quickly announce that both of these patterns are now available for purchase on Ravelry. I hope to have them available on the website as well within the next couple of days.

Enjoy!

Just a quick note...

2011-06-22T19:54:00.000-07:00

It has been brought to my attention that some knitters are having difficult y with downoading the PDF patterns from Scribd. I do plan to have them all downloadable through Ravelry, however this does take time. I have tried downloading the patterns from several different computers and have had no problems. Nor have I needed to log into the site to download.

If you are one having issues, please feel free to email me at mybb@comcast.net. I'm always happy to email the most current version, no questions asked. I'm also very good at answering questions, because I know that we all understand things a little differently.

Thank you for your continued support and patience. And you can look forward to some revised old favorites as well as a new critter that I've been working on lately. I hope to have them available very soon, so stay tuned...

Bobbi

BETTER BUNNEE

2011-04-22T16:04:00.000-07:00

Happy Easter Weekend everyone. Hope that you all have a pleasant time planned for this weekend and that you enjoy it and get the most out of it that you can.

A coworker ordered a couple of our bunnees this easter for grandchildren, and as a result we're working on some small modifications to improve this pattern and design. I always like getting orders for our plushees, but for a reason that you might not expect. Of course its always nice to know that our work is appreciated and that someone will enjoy it as much as we do, but it also gives me a chance to work through a pattern to refine it and to make modifications to the design. So I just wanted to share a picture of the newest bunnee.

I hope to have the new pattern ready soon!

SURPLUS FINGERLESS MITTS 2.0

2011-04-16T15:51:00.000-07:00

During the testing phase of this design, things changed a bit and the original idea took a differnt turn. This is one of those unique instances when testers have more influence than they realize. And the result was a very happy consequence. So this is the newest pattern in our collection.

Purchase Here.

Announcing our newest reversible scarf pattern

2011-04-08T09:15:00.000-07:00

We'd like to introduce our newest pattern, DELIAH. There are two sides to just about everything & that is certainly the case with this lovely scarf. Its classic look & intricate cable twist will impress even a seasoned cable knitter.

Simply repeat the 12 rows, then, before you know it, you’ll have a sumptuous scarf perfect for warming you on a cold day. The best part is that it’s completely reversible unlike standard cables, so there is no wrong side. Includes both written & charted instructions! Purchase here.

Reinventing the Double Trio Reversible Cable Scarf

2011-04-05T09:42:00.000-07:00

Well folks, It's finally done! After weeks of playing around with layout, hearing input and playing around with layout some more, I feel like I am finally happy with this new format. More great news! Not only is there a new name and new look but also a new lower price! So check it out. It now comes with two printer options to fit different knitters needs.

Purchase Here.

WHEW!

2011-03-14T17:54:00.000-07:00

Last week I shipped a lovely selection of Mybootee Babee DK Desert Thread in Moab Utah! Woo Hoo! So if you're in the neighborhood visiting or whatever you may be doing, you should stop in and check them out. I've been busily working on pattern layouts and boy let me tell you, graphic designers sure do a lot of work. So when you look at a magazine, a book, or a poster, especially one that you like and that is interesting, just remember, that it likely took someone hours or days, or even weeks to come up with something that is appealing. It's tougher than you'd think. Many of you know that I have been revising and redesigning layouts for my patterns for several weeks now, and after all this, I still only barely have a couple layouts that I am happy with. So I will continue on and am thoroughly enjoying all the learning that has taken place lately.

In addition, I want to introduce our new color line of Sock Yarn Solids. I have been obsessed with coming up with patterns that call for sock yarn that are not socks. And while that is still something I have in mind, I have discovered some new colors that I felt needed to be made into new Sock Yarn Solids. But this color line is not nearly complete. And as of now, I only have two dyed up. I expect to due more in the weeks to come and will likely share each one on our Facebook page. And if you haven't already discovered, we have a Facebook page, so like us or share us or whatever else you can do with us there.

Now without further adeiu here are the two newest colors in the Mybootee Family!

Now in spanish!

2011-03-04T08:05:00.000-08:00

I just made a new friend in Spain! She has generously translated my Babee Chullo pattern into spanish and is also willing to answer questions about the translation and the pattern. Now I realize that mostly everyone reading this blog, speaks english because after all how could you read it unless you did. But I figure, since some of us are bilangual (me excluded), then it might be of interest.

The ulitmate goal is for me to publish all my patterns in translated languages so that more people can share in the fun, but this will take time. So anyone who is interested in translating some or all of my other patterns, and whom I can direct questions to, would be welcome. And I would obviously provide them with the patterns free of charge. If for some reason, they choose a pattern that is already offered for free, I would be happy to arrange some other type of trade.

I am very excited about this new adventure, and I hope to do my part in helping the fabulous english patterns reach a whole different group of knitters.

Incidentally for any designers who might be reading this, the Spanish patterns are far and few in between so if you speak spanish, that's a great way to share more of your work!

New Kits!

2011-02-28T14:19:00.000-08:00

It's official folks. Sock Tabbee is now available for purchase though our website. If you live in Salt Lake, they can be found at The Wool Cabin. If you don't live near us and would like to see us in your LYS, ask them to check us out!

Got the juices flowing again.

2011-02-17T18:27:00.000-08:00

Well everyone, I wanted to clarify a little bit about my last post. I don't want you to think I was complaining about the experience. The goal of it was to acutally share my personal struggle and how I over came it.

It's easy to experience an event and go directly to the worst possible scenario. We have all done it at least once ;)

Many of you may remember my personal experiences about thinking errors and how being aware of them has helped me become what I feel to be a better person.

My initial thoughts, during the events of my last post were me, jumping to the worste possible conclusion. I was catastrphizing by mind reading someone elses motives.

I knew I was doing that and I struggled with my reason and my emotion for several days until finally reason won. So If I seemed like I was simply complaining, I do apologize. I am sure that there has been no malintent and that any similarities between my designs and others is purely coincidental.

The main thing I wanted to express was my learning process and that we all have our moments of frustration and misunderstandings, and that we all can get through them.

So with that said, I am proud to announce that I have had a breakthrough on my desigining, and I no longer feel in a funk. I have been excited and feeling good all week and I am eager to continue this trend. So while I have my two Super Secret Scarf Patterns in the works and testing soon to begin, I have redesigned the look of one of my early patterns. For a short time, I am willing to offer 5 free copies of this pattern for some proof reading. It is possible that during the moving of text and simplifying the wording, I may have made some typos or deleted important info. What I ask in return is that you take the time to thoroughly read through it and tell me if you spot any mistakes. If you've read this, please contact me at mybb@comcast.net

Thank you for continuing to read, and I hope to hear from you soon.
Bobbi

SIGH.....

2011-02-12T18:39:00.000-08:00

Well folks. I feel that I must clarify something that is weighing heavily on my soul lately. But in doing so I want to make it clear that I'm not asking for sympathy, I'm not in the mind set of "poor me" either. I just want to express this the best way I can so that I can get it off my chest.

I believe that inherently people are good. That being said, I have been a trusting person and for the most part willing to take most people at their word.

When I design, pattern, I feel that it is very important to be able to look at several different ideas for inspiration, choose specific design elements, and put them together in a completely unique way. I don't believe that if you make 5 mofications (or whatever the magic number is) then you can call a pattern your own. Someone worked hard on that pattern and I don't think that its fair to the original designer. It is for this reason that I design patterns the way I do. I live by the golden rule as much as possible, and I over look it when others don't. I realize that its ok to hold myself to a certain standard, but It's not fair to hold others to the same. Because the fact of the matter is, they likely don't have the same values and standards I have.

I worked very hard at the last pattern I designed. I decided what I wanted to make. Found a design element that I felt was unique to that item and pondered it for months until I came up with a way that I could make it. Not only make it, but make it in a way that it could be conveyed in a pattern for others to make. After sending out multiple copies for the testing phase, I saw at least 3 very similar designs pop up. Ok, so the first two popped up and I thought, "there's no denying a good idea and it was only a matter of time before someone else like me would come up with the same idea. But when the third one popped up, which looked identical to my original concept, I had to wonder. Am I not protecting my patterns enough? Is it possible that there might be people masquerading in the testing pool to get ideas then steal them? Of course not! Why would they go to that much trouble?

So reason has one out. Ok so the third pattern I saw ended up not being what mine was intended for. And it does look like its contructed in a different fashion. And even though the designer originally had in mind the exact item I did, it's not the same thing.

My lesson from this whole experience? In my idea that people are inherently good, am I misguiding myself into being foolish? Should I be more selective about my testers? How else can I protect my design until its been formally published? If those of you who are reading this have any ideas, I'd love to hear them.

And again, I'm not on my soapbox today to illicit sympathy or any other attention. The main purpose was for me to therapeutically release this concern that has been troubling my thoughts lately, and come up with a plan of action that will help me to avoid these feelings in the future. This is a place where I can be proactive, and this is a time when I can alter my initial thoughts to be a more level headed and successful individual.

So now you know why I chose this particular image for this post. Anyone who has worked with me in the past who would like to test out one of my latest patterns, can find mE on Ravelry as Mybb.

MYBOOTEE SURPLUS FINGERLESS MITTS

2011-02-05T15:35:00.001-08:00

Here's the latest pattern I've been working on. I like them because they fit a variety of different sizes. This is due to the subtle ribs throughout the body. Also they are knitted from the fingertips up so that you can get the most out of your sock yarn and make them as long as you like.

They feature my own unique design, using a similar method that is used for making collars on sweaters. Quite simply, these are sweaters for your hands. They are ideal for adding a bit of warmth to your hands and arms, but leave your fingers free for a variety of uses. Which, for a person like me who has a touch screen phone and commutes to work every day, they are ideal.

They could even be a way to add a little to gloves if layered over top.

I'm putting the finishing touches on the pattern and then will be asking for volunteers to test the readability and proofread.

If anyone is interested in testing this pattern prior to its release, you can contact me on Ravelry as mybb or leave a comment here.

For those of you who don't knit but would like a pair, they can be purchased HERE.

MYBOOTEE SURPLUS BOOTEES

2010-12-31T15:39:00.000-08:00

Well folks. I have been busily developing a new pattern this past couple weeks. And am almost ready for the testing phase.

They resemble Japanese style Kimono Booties and are knitted in one peice. The "surplus" part is the extra layer on the top that results from the trifold construction.

I will be posting on Ravelry as soon as it is ready for testing and look forward to the input that I will inevitably receive. Keep an eye out, If you don't want to be a tester that's ok too.

We are sorry for the inconvenience, but this pattern has required additional testing. We expect to have it available sometime after March 1st.

Sometimes....

2010-12-21T13:21:00.000-08:00

in the midst of inspiration, torn between what I need to do and what I want to do, I am pleasantly suprised. As I sit at work today trying to find every excuse not to work I am drawn to shoe shopping, which due to my size 11 feet always presents a stimulating challenge. Then I have some of the seasonal goodies that inevitably show up at this time of year to tempt me. I then proceed to paruse the internet, looking for the next brilliant idea. Somthing I can use up the myriad of designer fabric scraps that I have amassed during the last year. So many scraps and no good solid ideas.

In my search I came across a wonderful blog. I love the fabrics she uses, and her vision. I also was particularly struck by her statement "I am very happy for small businesses to sell items made from my PDF Patterns." There are a lot of things that this statement tells me. The main one is that she loves what she does and she wants to share with others. I so rarely come accross other designers that are willing to share their ideas so that everyone may benefit from them. So CLICK HERE to see it.

KNIT ENCROACHMENT

2010-12-08T17:46:00.003-08:00

Here I'll show you how to knit encroachment, which is the opposite of a purl encroachment.

Here's what your work will look like. Its likely you've already completed a purl encroachment and this is just about the same. You will start with some of your stitches on the left-hand needle, and some of your stitches on the right-hand needle.

Slip the first stitch from the left hand-needle knit-wise onto the right-hand needle

Use right-hand needle to lift the stitch from BELOW THE NEXT STITCH up ONTO the left hand-needle. Be careful not to let it get to close to the stitch that was already there.

Slip lifted stitch knit-wise from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle.

Knit the two stitches together through the back loops.

TWEENEE ARMWARMERS

2010-12-08T16:58:00.000-08:00

Required Materials:
400-420 yards Mybootee Handpainted Self Striping Sock Yarn, Size 2 DPNs or size 2 12 inch circ,
Tapestry needle

Gauge:
7 sts = 1 inch, 9 rows = 1 inch

Abbreviations:
k-knit
p-purl
CO-cast on
BO-bind off
st(s)-stitches

Tweens love these arm warmers and the good thing about this pattern is that you can make them and they stretch enough that even adults can wear them. Can fit arms up to 8 inches in circumference and measure up to12 inches in length.

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee Hand-painted sock yarn. Since gauge can be affected by different yarns, needle size, and how tightly you knit, it is important to make a swatch. If your swatch is smaller, then use a larger needle size, if your swatch is bigger, use a smaller needle size.

Cast on 60, join ends and begin knitting in the round.
Rows 1-20: K2 p2
K1 stitch after completing the 20th row and turn.

The next 20 rows will form the thumb hole. These rows will not be worked in the round, instead you will turn your work after each row is completed and you will work back the other way.
Row 21 (all odd rows): P1, (K2 P2) repeat unitil the 59th st is worked, P1 and turn.
Row 22 (all even rows): K2, (P2 K2) repeat until the 59th st is worked, K1 and turn.
*After completing the 40th row, DO NOT TURN. You will now begin working in the round again.

Row 41: K1, (P2 K2) repeat for 54 more stitches. This will be the starting point for each row hereafter.
Row 42-100: K2 P2 for entire row.

*If you are working with a 420 yard skein of Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn, you should now bind off, weave in loose ends, and begin the next arm warmer.
*If you are working with 210 yard skeins of Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn, you may continue to make the arm warmers as long as you wish or until the yarn runs out (which ever happens first). Make sure you leave at least a 1.5 yards to bind off.

BO using a Tubular Bind Off or Jenny's Suprisingly Stretchy Bind off and voila!

2010 Old World Christmas Market Pictures

2010-11-28T12:27:00.001-08:00

MADELINN BEANEE PATTERN

2010-11-19T15:32:00.000-08:00

Click here for a printable version
This beanee fits newborn to six months with a head circumference
of up to 18 inches.
Gauge: 6 sts = 1 inch, 8 rows = 1 inch
Materials needed: 100 yards DK weight yarn & US size 5 Double Pointed needles required. (1 Addi Turbo 16 inch circular needle is also very helpful if you have used them before, but I would not recommend them for a new knitter.)

Note: Since each yarn is unique, it is strongly recommended that you knit a swatch and make sure it is the proper gauge. Your gauge may also depend on how tightly you knit. If you are a tight knitter you may need to use a larger gauge needle and if you are a loose knitter, you may need to use a smaller gauge needle.
Instructions

Cast on 80 sts. Join ends
K2 p2 for 50 rows
Leaving a 24 inch tail, cut yarn and with a yarn needle use the kitchner stitch to graft the top of the hat. Weave in loose ends,
embellish with pompoms and your done! Now you can put it on your favorite baby's head..

Kitchener Stitch Instructions

Pom Pom instructions (finger method)

Pom Pom Instructions (Alternate Method)

My Newest Hanspun Yarn....

2010-11-17T08:13:00.001-08:00

Well folks. I wanna say thank you again for your patience during all the changes and for bearing with me. I wanted to share my newest handspun yarns. The drop spindle has been retired for a time to make room for the Ashford Traveller that was generously traded to me from my new good friend Meg B. THANKS MEG!!! Anyway, enjoy the pics.

PURL ENCROACHMENT

2010-11-16T08:44:00.005-08:00

Here I will show you how to purl encroachment. I prefer this method because it is the first method I learned how to turn a heel with. It is also sometime referred to as the Sherman Heel/Toe. It takes some getting used to because it is less commonly used. But once you get the idea, it's not bad. For those of you who know how to work short rows with a wrap and turn, feel free to apply that instead. My patterns have not been tested with a wrap and turn, so you will be on your own.

So now that your ready to begin the purl encroachment, you'll notice that you have stitches on the left needle, and stitches on the right needle.

Start by slipping the first stitch on the left-hand needle purlwise onto the right-hand needle.

Next, using your right-hand needle lift the stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle and place it onto the left-hand needle. I have used a tapestry needle here for demonstration only. Be sure to use your fingers to prevent it getting too close to the stitch that was already on the needle.

Now slip the previously slipped stitch from the right-hand needle back onto the left-hand needle.

Purl the two stitches together.
Here's what your work will look like once you are done.

EMBELLISHED HELMET HAT

2010-11-01T21:04:00.001-07:00

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
S: 16 in circumference; 16 in crown (from tip of one earflap to the tip of the other earflap)
M: 18 in circumference; 18 in crown
L: 20 in circumference; 20 in crown.

Additional sizes can be achieved by changing needle size and/or yarn weight to change the gauge.

Stitch Instructions and Abbreviations

k: knit
rem: remain(s), remaining
sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle st(s): stitch(es)
PM: place stitch marker
SM: slip stitch marker
m1: make one stitch by using left-hand needle, pick up the bar between the stitches from. Use the right-hand needle to knit the bar through the back loop.

NOTES:

*Please remember sizes are only a guide. You may want to adjust according to your preference.
*Pattern is worked in the round with two strands of yarn held together.
*Directions are for all sizes unless otherwise stated.
*All attempts have been made to assure accuracy & to address any potential issues. Please contact us if you have any questions.
*Printable copy can be downloaded from Ravelry.com

INSTRUCTIONS:
S/M/L - CO 64(72, 80). Join ends & begin knitting in the round.

EARFLAPS:
Rnd 1: knit all sts.

S - Rnd 2: k3, m1 & PM. k10, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k10 PM, m1, k10, m1, PM, k10 k2tog, PM, k2tog, k10, PM, m1, k3.

M - Rnd 2: k4, m1, & PM. k11, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k11, PM, m1, k12, m1, PM, k11, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k11, PM, m1, k4.

L - Rnd 2: k5, m1, & PM. k12, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k12, PM, m1, k16, m1, PM, k12, k2tog, PM, k2tog, k12, PM, m1, k5.

S/M/L - *Rnd 3: knit all sts.
Rnd 4: knit until 1st marker, m1, SM, knit until 2 st rem before 2nd marker, k2tog, SM, k2tog, knit until 3rd marker, SM, m1, knit until 4th marker, m1, SM, knit until 2 st rem before 5th marker, k2tog, SM, k2tog, knit until 6th marker, SM, m1, knit rem sts.*

S - Rnds 5-20: Repeat from *to*.

M - Rnds 5-22: Repeat from *to*.

L - Rnds 5-24: Repeat from *to*.

S/M/L – To set up for crown, knit all sts 1 rnd.

CROWN:
Rnd 26: knit until 1st marker & RM. k2tog (RM as necessary). Knit until 5th marker removing markers as you go. k2tog (RM as necessary). Remove rem marker & knit to end.

*Odd Rnds: Decrease number of sts evenly by 6.
Even Rnds: knit all sts*
Repeat from * to * until you have 36 sts left.

Rem Rnds: Decrease number of sts evenly by 6 each rnd until 6 sts rem. Cut yarn & draw through rem sts with tapestry needle. Tie off & weave in loose ends.

FINISHING: Embellish any way you wish or wear it simply as is.

Froggee Eye Chart

2010-10-26T13:27:00.001-07:00

Stitch Instructions

2010-10-26T12:18:00.000-07:00

Here are some of my more commonly used stitch Instructions

Stitch Instructions
k:knit
ybwd: Move working yarn to back
p:purl
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining
st(s): stitch(es)
CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
BO: Bind off unwkd: unworked
sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
SSK: slip 1st sts knitwise, slip 2nd sts knitwise, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and k2tog. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer.)
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl1 st purl-wise, lift the st below the next st onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped st back onto the left needle and p2tog.
k enc (knit encroachment): sl1 st purl-wise, lift the st below the next st onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped st back onto the left needle and k2tog.
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal and parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase st if you prefer)
k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.)
I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire.

SOCK FROGGEE 1.0

2010-10-26T10:45:00.000-07:00

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you
Click here for a printable version
Skill Level: Advanced
Suggested Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Materials: Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, Yarn 3 (Y3) Black yarn, 1 set Size #2 Double Pointed (DP) needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

*Note - I used larger yarn and needles in my sample so that the pictures would be clearer*

Stitch Instructions & Abbreviations
rem: remain(s), remaining
k:knit
p:purl
st(s): stitch(es)
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
unwkd: unworked
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal and parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.

Introduction You'll begin this critter by making the legs & placing them on a needle for later. Then you will begin the head & work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make the eyes, which will utilize some color work, & attach them. If you prefer to embroider the eyes, then make them using Y1 and Y2 only and embroider afterwards. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features & you are free to embellish him as you wish. You may want to work through the Turkish Cast On instructions a couple times, don’t be surprised if you have to start over a few times, it takes some getting used to. But it will be worth it. Enjoy.

Instructions: Arms (Make 2): *With Y1 CO 8 sts, divide onto 3 or 4 needles. Begin knitting in the round by working from the first st you casted on.
Rounds 1-4: k32.
Thumb: KFB in next 2 sts, slip next 6 sts onto a scrap piece of yarn for later, Work an icord for 12 sts.

*The next step doubles your stitches. KFB in each st until you have 8 sts & then knit all sts once. KFB in each st again until you have 16 sts & then knit all sts once again. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, slip each st onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all sts again, pulling tight to be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off, thread it down through the bulb, down through the shaft & out the other end and tie it to Y1 to begin working the other fingers.* Round 7: place the rem 6 sts back onto your needles and KFB in each st until you have 12 sts
Rounds 8-10: knit all sts. Now you are ready to start the fingers. You will work the fingers in a similar way to the thumb. Finger #1: Using the next 4 sts & placing the rem sts onto scrap yarn, work an I-cord for 16 sts. Repeat from * to *. Finger #2: Using the next 4 sts & placing the rem sts onto scrap yarn, work an I-cord for 24 sts & repeat from * to *. Finger #3: using the rem 4 sts, work an Icord for 16 sts, repeat from * to *, tie off yarn upon completion. Now is a good time to close up any gaps between fingers & to make sure the yarn tails are all secured into place.

Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the cast on edge. Tie the new working yarn Y2 to the tail left from the cast on. Using the outside loop of each cast on stitch, pick up 8 sts around the edge.Rounds 1-30: k240 (I like to count by hundreds). Close the arms by consoditating sts. You should now have 4 sts on one needle.
Arm #1: turn and purl across (this is important if you want your thumbs to be in the right place.) Cut yarn leaving enough that the sts don’t come undone, about 6 inches. Label as #1, this
will be important later.

Arm #2: Cut yarn leaving enough that the sts don’t come undone, about 6 inches. Label as #2, this will be important later. Transfer both to one needle as you complete them with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be important when you attach them to the body.

Legs (make 2): With Y1 CO 18 sts. Do not turn you’ll be knitting in the round by working from the first st you casted on.

Rounds 1-4: Knit all sts
(Leg #1: Skip ahead to Short Row Heel)
(Leg #2: knit 9 more stitches before continuing)

Short Row Heel work short rows back and forth on only 9 sts
Row 1: k9, turn,
Row 2: p7, turn,
Row 3: k6, turn,
Row 4: p5, turn,
Row 5: k4, turn,
Row 6: p3, p enc, turn,
Row 7: k4, k enc, turn,
Row 8: p5, p enc, turn,
Row 9: k6, k enc, turn,
Row 10: p7, p enc, turn one last time
Row 11:(Leg #1 sl1, k17)
(Leg #2: sl1, k8) you should now be at the start of each round again & will resume knitting in the round.
Rounds 5-8: k72 sts or 4 rounds (whichever you find easier). Now you are ready to start the toes.
Toe #1 Round 1: k3 stitches, slip next 12 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn for later, k3

Rounds 2-5: knit all sts
Round 6: The next step doubles your sts. KFB in each st until you have 12 sts
Round 7: knit all sts
Round 8: KFB in each st again until you have 24 sts
Round 9: knit all sts
Round 10: (k2tog tbl) x 12 leaving you with 12 sts (you can k2tog normally if
you choose, I just find it easier to k2tog tbl here). Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Using a
tapestry needle, slip each st onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all sts
a couple more times pulling tight each time to be sure to close the hole. Rather than
tying off, thread it down through the bulb, down through the shaft, out the other end
& tie it to Y1 to begin working other toes.*

Toe #2: You have 12 sts on scrap yarn, place the first 3 sts & the last 3 sts on your
needles. You should have 6 sts to work with and 6 sts on the scrap yarn.
Rounds 1-7: knit all sts.
Complete the bulb shaping of the toe by repeating from * to *.
Toe #3: You should have 6 sts on scrap yarn. Place them onto your needles and begin
Rounds 1-5: knit all sts.
Complete the bulb shaping of the toe by repeating from * to *.
Legs
Rounds 1-50: k900 (I like to count by hundreds), close each leg consolidating your sts. You should now have all sts on one needle,
(Leg #1: turn, purl all sts, turn again & knit all sts) Label as #1
(Leg #2: turn & purl all sts) Label as #2
Cut yarn leaving enough that the sts don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer both legs to one needle as you complete them with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be important when you attach them to the body. Be sure all pieces have purl side of final rows facing toward you before arranging all parts on one needle from Right to left as follows…
Arm #1, Arm #2, Leg #1, Leg #2

Head:
With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast On Method, CO 36 sts (18 wraps) Don’t forget to purl a row. *The slip-knot does not count as one of the sts. Work short rows across 2 DPNs with only 18 sts. Row 1: sl1, k16,(1 st rem unwd) turn,
Row 2: sl1, p15,(1 st rem unwkd) turn,
Row 3: sl1, k14,(2 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 4: sl1, p13,(2 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 5: sl1, k12,(3 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 6: sl1, p11,(3 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 7: sl1, k10,(4 sts rem unwkd) turn,
Row 8: sl1, p9,(4 sts rem unwkd), turn,
Row 9: sl1, k8,(5 sts rem unwkd), turn,
Row 10: sl1, p7, p enc, turn. (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: sl 1, k7, k enc twice. turn. (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: sl 1, p9, p enc, turn. (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: sl 1, k10, k enc, turn. (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: sl 1, p11, p enc, turn. (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: sl 1, p13, p enc, turn. (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 17: sl 1, k14, k enc, turn. (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 18: sl 1, purl all rem sts, do not p enc, turn.
Row 19: sl 1, knit all rem sts, do not k enc, do not turn
Now is a good time to remove the slip knot that you started with. Being working in the round by knitting the 18 sts that were formed during your cast on. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. You can move the yarn tail to the front of your work to mark the beginning of each round. (if for some reason you only have 17, don’t worry, you can just increase by one after 9 sts.) Rounds 1 & 2: knit all 36 sts.

Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y1 onto, and begin short rows again.

Snout:
*you’ll work short rows again here*
Row 1: k2, KFB 14 times, k2 (32 sts), turn,
Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st rem unwkd) turn,
Row 3: sl1, k29, (1 st rem unwkd) turn
Row 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts rem unwkd) turn
Row 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts rem unwkd) turn
Row 6: sl1, p26, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 7: sl1, k25, turn (3 sts rem unwkd
Row 8: sl1, p24, turn (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl1, k10, KFB twice, k11, turn, (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl1, p24, turn (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: repeat row 9 (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: repeat row 10 (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: repeat row 9 (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: repeat row 10 (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 15: repeat row 9 (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: sl1, p24, p enc, turn (7 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: sl1, k10, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k10, k enc twice, turn, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 18: repeat row 16 (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: sl1, k10, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k11, k enc, turn, (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 20: repeat row 16 (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 21: repeat row 19 (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 22: repeat row 16 (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 23 repeat row 16 (3 sts rem unwkd
Row 24: repeat row 16 (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 25: sl1, k25, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd
Row 26: sl1, p26, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd
Row 27: sl1, k27, k enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 28: sl1, p28, p enc, turn, (1 st rem unwkd)
Row 29: sl1, k29, k enc, turn.
Row 30: sl1, p30, p enc, turn,
Row 31: sl1, k1, k2tog 14 times, k2, do not turn, end short rows & you should have 36 sts again.
Switch to Y2 & k9. You are now ready to resume knitting in the round to complete the rest of the body.

Head continued:
Round 5: knit all sts
Round 6: k14, k2tog twice, k2tog tbl twice, k14 (32 sts)
Round 7: knit all sts
Round 8: k10, k2tog three times, k2tog tbl three tmes, k8 (26 sts)
Round 9: knit all sts
Round 10: k6, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k3, k2tog tbl, k6 (22 sts)
Round 11: knit all sts
Round 12: (k2, k2tog) twice, k6, (k2tog tbl) twice (18 sts)
Round 13: knit all sts
Body Section:
Round 14: k6, KFB, k4, KFB, k6 (20 sts)
Round 15: k6, KFB, k2, KFB twice, k2, KFB, k6 (24 sts)
Round 16: k6, KFB, k10, KFB, k6 (26 sts)
Round 17: k6, KFB, k5, KFB twice, K5, KFB, k6 (30 sts).
Round 18: k7, you are now going to consolidate the next 4 sts to be worked with the 4 sts on Arm #1. While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting, pick up the needle containing the arms so that you can see the purl side of the final row and place it in front of your work parallel to needle & consolidate. k8, & attach Arm #2 in the same manner as the first, k7.
Round 19: knit all sts,
Round 20: k7, KFB, k14, KFB, k7 (32 sts)
Round 21: k7, KFB, k7, KFB twice, k7, KFB, k7 (36 sts)
Round 22: k8, KFB, k18, KFB, k8 (38 sts)
Round 23: k8, KFB, k9, KFB twice, k9, KFB, k8 (42 sts)
Round 24: k8, KFB, k24, KFB, k8 (46 sts)
Round 25: k9, KFB, k11, KFB twice, k11, KFB, k9 (48 sts)
Round 26: knit all sts
Round 27: (k7, KFB) x 3, (KFB, k7) x 3 (54 sts)
Round 28: knit all sts
Round 29: (k8, KFB) x 3, (KFB, k8) x 3 (60 sts)
Rounds 30-38: knit all sts,
Round 39: (k2, k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog tbl, k4, (k2tog
tbl, k2) twice, (54 sts)
Round 40: knit all sts
Round 41: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog tbl, k6, k2tog tbl, k8, k2tog tbl, k3 (48 sts)
Round 42: k13. Now consolidate the next 9 sts to be worked with the sts on Leg #1. Remember to hold the leg so you can see the purl side of the final row. k4, & attach Leg #2 in the same manner. k13
Round 44: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 sts)
Round 45: k2, (k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4) twice, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36)
Round 46: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 sts), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 47: k1, (k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2) twice, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 sts)
Round 48: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 sts
Round 49: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 sts) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, & using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed &you can’t work from the inside.

Eyes (make 2):

Using Y2, and the Turkish Cast On Method, CO 36 sts (18 wraps), Don’t forget to purl a row. *The slip-knot does not count as one of the sts. Work short rows across 2 DPNs with only 9 sts. Work from chart until all rows have been completed. You should now have 18 sts on your DPN and 18 still on the circular needle. It will be easier to stitch the eye into place if you stuff it first. Cut yarn and thread it through all the sts using your tapestry needle.
Your completed eye will look like a neat little cup. Do not pull tight. Stuff with fiber fill & then pull tight enough that you cannot see any of the yarn tail through the colored parts to hold the stuffing in.

Stitch to the head along the lines that formed when you knitted/purled each encroachment.

I like to stitch the back of the eye into place first followed by the front part. It stays in place easier this way.

Finishing: Weave in any loose ends. Embroider nostrils and a froggee smile. Chain Stitch along the lines on either side of the snout and dip slightly as you near the front

Voila!!! You now have your very first Sock Froggee!!!
.
You are of course free to embellish him any way you wish.

Stitch Consolidation

2010-10-24T11:45:00.000-07:00

To consolidate your stitches: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles holding them in your left hand with the working yarn on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are on the front needle and the stitches you just worked are on the back needle.) The next step will be to k2tog using one stitch from the front needle and one stitch from the back needle. Now let's break it down. For the purpose of this instruction I have used contrasting yarns.

Step 1: Divide Stitches evenly between two needles
and hold them in your left hand. (For tubular pieces, be
sure that the stitches you just worked are on the back needle.)

Step 2: Insert right hand needle knitwise into the first stich on the front needle. Do not slip the stitch off of the left needle yet.

Step 3: Insert right hand needle knitwise into the first stitch on the back needle.

Step 4: k2tog.

Repeat Steps 2-4 until you have consolidated all stitches.

This is what the wrong side will look like...

...and this is what the right side will look like.

Broken Links

2010-10-24T07:46:00.000-07:00

Well everyone,it seems in my conversion, that I completely forgot about the pages that were on my original website that I do in fact rely on. :( This is me and my sad face. So if you have difficulty with them, email me at mybb@comcast.net about your question and I'll do what I can do help. this is only temporary but I will get all the instructions and PDF files switched over. Thank you for your kind words and your patience.

Anna's Art Coming Soon!

2010-10-18T14:26:00.000-07:00

So I anticipate many "piddly" posts in the next several weeks, until I can get things in order enough to have something workable, Especially since I discovered the need for website revamping so close to the Holiday season, which also happens to be when our website sales are the most active. Crossing my fingers though.

So this post is the future home of Anna's Art! She meticulously paints little masterpeices onto rocks. Yes folks, I said rocks. The are indeed "painted rocks" But what can I say? They are fun.

For this one, Anna first found a rock that had some interesting texture on it. One particular area was encrusted with old cemement or something similar. She used Wood Putty to mold the chimney because we all know that while many rocks are interesting, they do not come with chimneys.

She then lets the shape and texture guide her paintbrush and after several days, the detail is evident. There's always something going on inside, and she paints in such a way that if you could just peak around the corner you might get the full picture.

My favorite part though? Remember the cement crusted on the side that I mentioned earlier? It's now a tree? If any of her work is evidence of how she uses the texture to guide her painting, this is it. I continually put this one on display as one of my favorites, and each time I do, I am amazed at her artistry. Being a knitter and a crafter, painting and schetching has always eluded me. She truely has a gift.

Changes are happening!

2010-10-18T08:28:00.001-07:00

NOTICE If you have seen our products and would like to place an order, please email me at mybb@comcast.net. Many of our products are not around long enough to post online, and those that are will be comeing intermittently over the next year. Yarn may always be purchased, but you will need to contact me so I can let you know what I have in stock.

For those of you who may not know, over the next year I will be working on transitioning this blog into our main website. Maintaining and building a website from scratch can be daunting and time consuming. Not to mention there is just know sense of accomplishment or satisfaction for me. So please bear with us and please let us know if you have suggestions.

For our loyal followers, the "knitting and cooking" idea has not yet come to fruition. Mainly because there was a change in my day job schedule and that just threw everyting out of keyster. I know work 8-4:30 which means that I have had to overhaul my schedule. Since my dad eats around 5, all parties in the home are now left to fin for themselves, and I am riding my bike in the AM to work in the exercise. I haven't given up on the idea but I will be putting it on the back burner.

So please when you see me post some strange things, don't be alarmed. They are merely place holders so that I can start creating pages for product purchasing.

Thank you for you continued patience and support.

2010-10-11T08:36:00.000-07:00

Well folks, it's been a while since I posted. Such a busy Farmer's Market Season this year. There's only one more Saturday left so if you haven't been this year, now is the time.

As the season draws to a close, inspiration hits and just in time to prep for the Christmas market. We will be participating in the Old World Christmas Market again this year at the Rio Grand Ballroom upstairs at the Gateway Mall. So if you're around, come and see us. It starts the day after Thanksgiving and runs through December 4th.

For anyone who wants to place Christmas orders, don't delay. We get pretty busy around this time of year and want everyone to get their special something in time for Christmas.

We've had some new stuff this year. Anna has been busy recycling sweaters and has come up with some darling felted Dinosaur plush toys. Pictures will come later.
I have a series of reversible cable scarf patterns available now as well. We will be selling "green" reusable coffee cup sleeves, hand crafted Christmas tree ornaments, Hand painted yarns, and of course some of our familiar favorites.

For the knitters out there, I am developing a new hat pattern that I just love. This will be a free pattern and will be available here or through Ravelry November 1st if not sooner.

So that's all for now folks, you can look forward to more posts from me during the off season as soon as the holidays are over so thanks for following along.

RIBBED BABEE SOX

2010-08-05T10:46:00.000-07:00

Click Here for a printable Version
Required Materials:
#2 DPNs, #2 Circular Needle (required for Cast-On And Heel Turning)
1 Hank Mybootee Handpainted Sock yarn (210 yrds)
Or for C1-3 & C4-6
2 Hanks Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn (420 yrds)

Gauge 7s x 10r = 1 inch

Makes 7 different sizes!
Infant Shoe Sizes: I1-2 & I3-4
Toddler Shoe Sizes T5-7, T8-10, & T11-13
Children’s Shoe Sizes C1-3 & C4-6

Abbreviations:
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Slide the Slip-knot onto them both. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): Sl 1 st from the Left needle onto the Right needle. Pick up a st below next st on left needle, sl 1 st from right needle back onto left needle, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1 st from the Left needle onto the Right needle. Pick up a st below next st on left needle, sl 1 st from right needle back onto left needle, k2tog
k:knit
p: purl
rem: remain(s)
sl: slip
BO: Bind off
ybwd: Move working yarn to back
CO: Cast On
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
st(s): stitch(es)
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
unwkd: unworked

Instructions:
Using the Turkish Cast On method cast on 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48) stitches (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) wraps. (Don’t forget to purl a row. Slip-knot does not count as a st. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 1/2 of the sts.) Work Short Row Toe through Row 27.

Short Row Toe
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
For I1-2 & I3-4 only, skip to row 22

Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn,
For T5-7 & T8-10 only, skip to Row 20

Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem, turn,
For T11-13 only, skip to row 18

Row 10: sl 1, p until 5 sts rem, turn,
Row 11: sl 1, k until 6 sts rem, turn,
For C1-3 only, skip to row 16

Row 12: sl 1, p until 6 sts rem, turn,
Row 13: sl 1, k until 7 sts rem, turn,
Row 14: sl 1, p until 7 sts rem, p enc, turn, (6 sts rem)
Row 15: s l1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn, (6 sts rem)

Resume C1-3
Row 16: sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc, turn, (5 sts rem)
Row 17: sl1 k until 6sts rem, k enc, turn, (5 sts rem)

Resume T11-13
Row 18: sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc, turn, (4 sts rem)
Row 19: sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc, turn, (4 sts rem)

Resume T5-7 & T8-10
Row 20: sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, turn, (3 sts rem)
Row 21: sl1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, turn, (3 sts rem)

Resume 1-2 & I3-4
Row 22: sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem)
Row 23: sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem)
Row 24: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 st rem)

Row 25: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 st rem)
Row 26: sl1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 27: sl1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn.

Begin working in the round by knitting the 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts from the circular needle.

k6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12). You should now be at the start of each round. Your finished toe should look like this.

Set up for the foot:
Round 1: k5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17), (m1, k2) x 7, m1, k5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17). You should now have 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56)
Round 2: knit

Foot:
K7 (9,9,11,11,13,13), p2, (k2,p2) until 7 (9,9,11,11,13,13) sts rem. k7 (9,9,11,11,13,13)
Work 20 (25,30,35,40,45,50) rounds.

Set up for the heel turning:
k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14). Use circular needle work
1 more foot round until 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts rem. Use DPN to k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14).

You’ll work the heel the same as the toe and just pretend the sts on the circular needle do not exist for now.

Heel:
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn,
For I1-2 & I3-4 only, skip to row 20

Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem, turn,
For T5-7 & T8-10 only, skip to Row 18

Row 10: sl 1, p until 5 sts rem, turn,
Row 11: sl 1, k until 6 sts rem, turn,
For T11-13 only, skip to row 16

Row 12: sl 1, p until 6 sts rem, turn,
Row 13: sl 1, k until 7 sts rem, turn,
Row 14: sl 1, p until 7 sts rem, p enc, turn, (6 sts rem)
Row 15: Sl1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn, (6 sts rem)

Resume T11-13
Row 16: Sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc, turn,(5 sts rem)
Row 17: sl1 k until 6sts rem, k enc, turn,(5 sts rem)

Resume T5-7 & T8-10
Row 18: sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc, turn, (4 sts rem)
Row 19: sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc, turn, (4 sts rem)

Resume 1-2 & I3-4
Row 20: sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, turn,(3 sts rem)
Row 21: sl1, k until 4 sts rem k enc, turn, (3 sts rem)
Row 22: sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem)
Row 23: sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem)
Row 24: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 st rem)
Row 25: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 st rem)
Row 26: sl1, p until 1 st rem, p enc (lifted stitch will come from below the first st on the circular needle), turn,
Row 27: sl1, k until 1 st rem, k enc (lifted stitch will come from below the first st on the circular needle), do not turn,

Work stitches from circular needle in established foot pattern, then k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14).

Next 6 Rounds all sizes:
Work same as rounds of the foot

Cuff:
For I1-2:
Rounds 1-24: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1

For I3-4
Rounds 1-30: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1

For T5-7:
Rounds 1-36: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1

For T8-10:
Rounds 1-42: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1

T11-13:
Rounds 1-48: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1

C1-3:
Rounds 1-54: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
C4-6:
Rounds 1-60: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1

BO all sts. (to obtain a stretchy cuff I recommend the Tubular Bind off or Jeny's Suprisingly Strechy Bind Off). Weave in loose ends and voila!

Reversible Braids Scarf Now Available!

2010-07-21T08:02:00.000-07:00

For those who might be interested, I wanted to let you know that the new scarf pattern is available. I know that it's so hot outside to start thinking about knitting scarves for christmas, but if they are in fact on you list, you'll be pleased at what a quick knit this could be. It only involves an 8 row repeat, and simple 2 x 2 ribbing. Once you memorize it you'll find yourself saying, "one more repeat and then I'll quit" The next thing you know, you'll be halfway done.

Click here to Purchase

My most recent life lesson, and of course, knitting.

2010-05-25T07:30:00.000-07:00

I have come to a recent realization... After years of not being happy with my appearance and my body type, I am at peace. I have been enjoying long walks outside. During which I "smell the roses", I take advantage of every photo op because my camera goes with me everywhere. I am finding beauty everywhere and appreciating the myriad of visual asthetics the world has to offer. I have hobbies, and interests, and by evaluating my thinking errors I am finally starting to become the person I was always meant to be.

So I figured this out: Whatever my body does while I am doing all of these things, is what my body is supposed to look like. Whatever wrinkles or creases appear in my face as a result of my time in the sun sqinting, well they are ok too. Life is too short to not enjoy the things that make us happy with a clear conscience. We can't beat ourselves up over our mistakes, it only contributes to our feeling poorly. So my advice for the summer ahead? Be content with the good things in your life, take action to correct or modify the things that are not good, and be open to anything. I don't mean to neglect responsibilities, but more that in all the hustle and bustle of daily life you take at least 30 minutes doing something for you that makes you happy. Everything else will fall into place and you'll find a new strength in dealing with the challengest hat head your way.

Too preachy? Not my intent. When I figure out something good I just want to share it with people. So here I am sharing with whoever wants to accept.

As for the knitting? Still loving it! Just taught a class at the Wool Cabin on my first Reversible Cables Scarf pattern. Last class is this Friday. My next class will be the Monkee/Bunnee Class so for any locals that are interested in attending you can see the details here.

Also, two new scarf patterns will be available after June 1st. The Mesh Lace Reversible cable scarf, perfect for chilly spring mornings or as a light accessory, and the Floating Reversible Cables Scarf. You can check them out on Ravelry and if you want to be notified when its abailable, just PM me with your email and I'll keep you posted.

Bobbi

Perfect Caramels, More Knitting, and...

2010-04-21T07:56:00.000-07:00

More reversible cable scarves. Once I get going, it's hard for me to stop. This pattern is being tested now and will be available by June 7th in my Etsy store. I expect to have a few more reversible cables designed before the end of the year so stay tuned, you might find something you really like.

In my mission to find the perfect caramel recipe, I think I finally did it. Aren't they pretty? They taste really good too. So here is the recipe which I borrowed from About.com and tweaked a little bit.....

Perfect Caramels

Ingredients:
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk
2 tsp vanilla
1 tsp rum flavor
1 cups light corn syrup
1/2 cup water
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) softened butter, cut into small cubes

Preparation:
1. Prepare a 9x9 pan by lining it with aluminum foil and spraying the foil with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Combine the cream, sweetened condensed milk, vanilla, and run flavor in a small saucepan, and place the saucepan on a burner set to the lowest heat setting. You want the milk and cream to be warm, but do not allow it to boil.

3. In a medium-large saucepan combine the corn syrup, water, and granulated sugar over medium-high heat. Stir the candy until the sugar dissolves, then use a wet pastry brush to wash down the sides of the pan to prevent sugar crystals from forming and making the candy grainy.

4. Insert a candy thermometer and reduce the heat to medium. Allow the mixture to come to a boil and cook until the thermometer reads 250 degrees.

5. Add the softened butter chunks and the warm milk-cream mixture. The temperature should go down about 30 degrees.

6. Continue to cook the caramel, stirring constantly so that the bottom does not scorch. Cook it until the thermometer reads 235-244, and the caramel is a beautiful dark golden brown.

7. Remove the caramel from the heat and immediately pour it into the prepared pan. Do not scrape candy from the bottom of the saucepan. Allow the candy to sit overnight to set up and develop a smooth, silky texture.

8. When you are ready to cut the caramel, place a piece of waxed paper on the counter and lift the caramel from the pan using the foil as handles. Flip the top of the caramel onto the waxed paper and peel the foil layer from the bottom of the caramel.

9. Spray a large knife with nonstick cooking spray. Firmly cut into the caramels, creating 1” squares. Wipe the blade and re-spray as necessary.

10. Wrap the squares in waxed paper. The caramels will gradually spread and lose their square shape if not wrapped soon after cutting. Alternately, you can dip them in chocolate once they are cut.

11. Store the caramels at room temperature for up to two weeks.

....And finally, I enjoyed my first walk home from work of the season. I love it because I find such beautiful things on the way. I knew from last year that I would find some interesting things, and so I brought my camera so that I could share them with you.

Taco Salads, Caramel, Knitting

2010-04-14T10:08:00.001-07:00

Well, it's been a little while since I have written. I have been busy cooking, knitting, and revising patterns. I've also been fighting a spring cold & must say that I think they are worse than winter colds. At least with winter colds, it's cold outside With spring colds, one day is warm, the next day is cold, the day after that is warm and wet and it just seems that mother nature is very indecisive. Oh wait, I live in Utah, thats normal!

Now that I am feeling better I am getting back into the habit of cooking for my family. This weeks recipe is a total winner. Taco salads with Creamy Tomatillo Salad Dressing. So here's ya do. Prepare salad dressing according to the directions. Cook 2 pounds of taco meat with 3 packs of taco seasoning (for a family of three you can easily get dinner, lunch the next day, and maybe even dinner again). Put one flour tortilla in a frying pan with a little bit of margarine on medium heat. Check regularly until you see the nice golden brown spots, then flip it over with a little bit more margarine. Sprinkle a little shredded cheese on top and allow to melt. Then put tortilla in a bowl and squish down the middle. Voila! You now have a taco salad shell. For the salad, shredded lettuce, shredded cheese, de-seaded diced tomato, and cucumber if you like. You are obviously free to add anything else you think a salad should have but for minimizing time in the kitchen, I chose just these ingredients. The nice thing is that you cut enough of each ingredient that you can eat off of it for two or three days, with minimal mess and it is very satisfying.

So, you've got your shell, your meat, your dressing, and your salad. Put it together any way you like and you are set. The picture does not express the glory that was my taco salad, but what can I say? I was hungry and did not want to fiddle with the camera.

I'm struggling too with making caramels. There is just something special about a home made caramel and after successfully making some last week, I cannot seem to make more. The obsessive part of me has used up three bags of sugar, almost a gallon of heavy whipping cream, all the Captain Morgan's spiced Rum, and three bags of pecan pieces. In defense of the rum, I only had about a cup to begin with. I am going to attempt one more try tonight when I get home, I have the cream, I have the Karo syrup now, and I am very familiar with the "hard ball" stage. Will see how it goes, but if anyone has a good failsafe recipe I would love it.

Now that I have all revisions of the Double Trio Reversible Cable Scarf complete, and its ready for sale, I have become inspired for another scarf idea. The Floating Reversible Cable Scarf.

This scarf features a lace mesh edged with reversible cables. Two more reversible cables appear to "float" in the lace. The end result? Versatility, Variation, and Lush detail without the hassle of a complicated pattern.

I have conquered!

2010-04-01T10:31:00.000-07:00

Some of you may remember my story earlier about my tears and how I think I can battle them. Well I did it. After attending a "Thinking Errors" group session, I experienced a situation at work yesterday that I felt extremely frustrated about. During the group session I learned some key phrases and ideas that helped me cope with this particular situation.

1. An event takes place
2. As a result, I have an emotion.
a. I experience a physical manifestation of that emotion
b. My behavior reflect my reaction to the physical manifestation.

The key to this concept is using what I know about the event and the emotion to switch from negative behaviors to positive ones.

With those things fresh in my mind I had this experience...

1. Former patient called with a unique set of challenges in obtaining his medical records from waaaaayyy back. I asked for assistance from the appropriate department and was denied.
2. I became frustrated. Angry. How could they not do everything in their power to assist this patient? I was bending over backwards, using my resources to help him with this situation. Why couldn't think outside their box to see it my way? I provided them everything they would need to answer his questions, but they would not hear it.
a. I first felt confused. Then after the call, I felt the welling up inside my chest, and my eyes began to turn bloodshot. I could feel the tearduct start to fill.
b. Normally this would be a point where I think to myself, "oh here we go again, these uncontrollable tears that I cannot fight" Which would then be followed by "great, now I'm crying, I'm such a boob, and now everyone else is thinking the same thing" leading to more tears. But instead of this pattern which usually sends me spinning, hurtling out of control at times, I took a deep breath. I paused for a moment. I finished my task and then turned around to process with a coworker.

Do you know what I did? I was able to calm myself, and my eyes cleared up, and my heart stopped pounding and I no longer felt the need to cry.

I feel like this is a momentous growth for me. I truly can fight these tears and these negative thoughts that sometime fight their way into my life.

Now comes the part where I apply this to my knitting.

I'm in the testing phase of a couple of patterns.
1. Honest input is given to me about a pattern, the wording, or the techniques.
2. The old me might have felt hurt, or insulted, or rejected.
a. the old me might have thrown my hands in the air,

b. the old me would have then taken a defensive stance and maybe even vocalized the frustration, or altered my ideas about test knitting to make the next experience better. Which of course is a reasonable reaction to what the old me just percieved.

2. Not this time Me! I did not feel hurt or rejected. I felt excited. This was a chance to better my pattern, to further my business, and achieve my ultimate goal.
a. I smiled

b. I reread the comments, looked at the pattern again. Corrected the issues that were addressed because I agreed with the comments. And sent out not only replies to the specific questions, but the revised patterns.

Overall, not only am I several steps closer to having complete patterns, but I have learned much about writing patterns, and have conquered one of my personal demons as well. YAY ME!

Today is better than yesterday for this reason. Well that and it's my Friday, so I can go home and knit all weekend and make more homemade caramel. So fun! Yes caramel is fave recipe this week. And If I make it and bring it to work then I don't feel so guilty about eating it. LOL

Sock Piggee 1.1

2010-03-19T17:25:00.000-07:00

Click HERE for printable version

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you

Suggested Gauge: 6s x 9r = 1 inch

Finished Measurements: Approximately 5.5 x 5.5

Materials: 35 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) undyed DK weight yarn, 35 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK Weight yarn, 1 set #2 DPNs, 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill, 1 tapestry needle, 1 sewing needle and white thread, straight pins of blocking pins are recommended to assist in attaching the limbs.

Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification. Don't forget to share your project images on Ravelry!

You'll begin this critter by making the ears, eyes, & legs. Then you'll start the body by working from the snout to the tail and attach the ears towards the midway point. Once he's stuffed you'll attach and stuff the legs. To finish, you'll stitch the eyes into place and embroider on his facial features.

Ears (make 2): Using Y1, CO 3
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k1, m1a, knit to end, (4 sts)
Row 3: knit
Row 4: k2, m1a, knit to end, (5 sts)
Row 5: knit
Row 6: Repeat Row 4, (6 sts)
Row 7: knit
Row 8: k3, m1a, knit to end, (7 sts)
Row 9: knit
Row 10: repeat row 8, (8 sts)
Row 11: knit
Row 12: k4, m1a, knit to end, (9 sts)
Row 13: knit
Row 14: repeat row 12 (10)
Row 15: knit
Row 16: k5, m1a, knit to end (11 sts)
Row 17: knit
Row 18: repeat row 16 (12 sts)
Row 19: knit
Row 20: k5, k2tog, knit to end (11 sts)
Row 21: knit
Row 22: repeat row 20 (10 sts)
Row 23: knit
Row 24: k4, k2tog, knit to end, (9 sts)
Row 25: knit
Row 26: repeat row 24 (8 sts)
Row 27: knit. do not BO sts. instead slip them onto a scrap piece of yarn or stitch saver tool for later.

Tail: Using Y1, CO 20
Row 1: purl. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle, thread it though all 20 stitches. Pull tight and work into a curly-Q. Put aside for later

Eyes (make 2): Using Y1, CO 18,
Row 1: sl 1 purlwise, (p2tog) x 8, p1 (10 sts)
Row 2: sl 1 purlwise, (k2tog tbl) x 4, k1, cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle, thread it though all 6 stitches. Pull tight, tie off and put aside for later.

Legs (make 4): Using Y1 and starting approximately 24 inches from the end of the yarn, CO 24, begin working in the round
Rounds 1-4: knit
Round 5: (k1, k2tog) x 8 (16 sts)
Round 6: knit
Round 7: (k2tog) x 8 , (8 sts) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle, thread it though all 6 stitches. Pull tight, tie off and put aside for later.

Snout: Using Y1 and starting approximately 24 inches from the end of the yarn, CO 24, begin working in the round
Rounds 1-5: knit
Round 6: purl
Round 7: knit
Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl) x 8 (16 sts)
Round 9: knit
Round 10: (k2tog tbl) x 8 (8 sts, cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle, thread it though all 6 stitches. Pull tight, tie off.

Body: Using Y2, pick up 24 sts along the cast on edge of the snout. Continue working in the round.
Round 1: knit
Round 2: (k4, m1a) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 3: knit
Round 4: (k5, m1a) x 6 (36 sts)
Round 5: knit
Round 6: (k6, m1a) x 6 (42 sts)
Round 7: knit
Round 8: (k7, m1a) x 6 (48 stt)
Round 9: knit
Round 10: (k8, m1a) x 6 (54 sts)
Round 11: knit
Round 12: (k9, m1a) x 6, (60 sts)
Round 13: knit
Round 14: k10, consolidate the next 8 sts with the stitches on one ear. K8, consolidate the next 8 stitches with the stitches on the remaining ear. k34
Rounds 15-31: knit
Round 32: (k8, k2tog tbl) x 6 (54 sts)
Round 33: knit
Round 34: (k7, k2tog tbl) x 6 (48 sts)
Round 35: knit
Round 36: (k6, k2tog tbl) x 6 (42 sts)
Round 37: knit
Round 38: (k5, k2tog tbl) x 6 (36 sts)
Round 39: knit
Round 40: (k4, k2tog tbl) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 41: knit
Now is a good time weave in the loose ends of the ears and snout. Also stuff the front half of the piggee with fiber fill. Tamper filling into the snout so it's nice and firm and stuff the body till it's almost as firm as you'd like it. You will be filling up more just before you close him up. Also weave
Round 42: (k3, k2tog tbl) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 43: knit
Round 44: (k2, k2tog tbl) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 43: knit
Round 44: (k1, k2tog tbl) x 6 (12 sts)
Finish filling him up until your satisfied but be sure to save a handful of the filling for the legs. cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle, thread it though all 6 stitches. Pull tight, tie off.

Assembly: Arrange the legs on the surface of the belly opposite the ears, by pinning them to the body where you'd like to secure them. Use your tapestry needle and the yarn tail to secure them into place filling with fiber fill as you go. Carefully secure the curly-Q tail to the body and tie off loose ends. Using your needle and thread, tack the eyes into position and weave in and tie off the loose ends. Now you can add the details. Embroider on his nostrils and eye details. Voila! You have now created your very own Sock Piggee.

More thinking errors...

2010-03-18T08:08:00.001-07:00

When I began knitting I had to let go of my perfectionism, my set of rules about how my knitting and my artwork in general should and shouldn't be. I often hear people in my classes say stuff like, "I'm so stupid, I can't beleive I couldn't get that before" or "I have so many projects and no way to finish them all in time, so I just gave up" or "I could never do that! I'm just not creative" Have you ever said something like that? Be honest. This brings me to my latest social Faux Pas.

Tell me if this has happened to you...

I made a comment in casual conversation, and someone who was not a part of it says, "Wait a minute! What?" and I gave a brief answer (because it really wasn't the point of the conversation and it's kind of an interruption to the flow). That someone returned my answer with a "Why....." and when I responded to that with another brief (although incomplete) answer so so that I could continue my conversation, the other person continued to ask "why" this and "why" that. Before I knew it I was frustrated, they were frustrated and all because.... because "why?"

Sometimes with our kids the same thing happens. They naturally inquire about everything, and we as parents, begin our parenting adventures wanting to tell them reasonable answers to everything. This is likely due to the fact, that at some point in our lives we ourselves asked "why" and could not understand "why" we did not get satisfactory answers. But as we continue on to the parenting we sometimes progress from "Well, its because........" to "Because I said so"

C'mon now, I'm betting we all have done that at least once. I think that is a parent thing. And even though we may not litterally all be parents, we have behaved parent like to someone, somewhere, at some time.

There are several possible combinations of thinking errors here in this particular situation. In my particular event this week, I took a negative feeling which resulted from an event last week, I applied it to a situation this week and reacted. OK folks, train wreck! I said something, he said something, I said something else, he said something else, and the next thing I knew, he's telling me its alright (even though I can see that its not) and I'm in tears. And you probably know what happens next right? One of two things, either people are saying to themselves, "Run Away! Run Away!" or "Great here come the waterworks" My response to assuming others are thinking those things? More tears.

"Why am I crying over spilled milk" Was it hormones? Maybe. Was it the time change? Maybe. Why was it so bad? What was the worst thing that could happen? Unfortunately I was not thinking this through during the event, I was thinking of it after work, at home while working on a pattern. Yes there is how it relates to my knitting. I found my knitting enjoyment thwarted by my inability to let it go.

Then I had an epiphany? How did I get from "Oh, I spilled some milk" to "OMG! The sky is falling!!!" (notice the excessive use of exclamation marks in my second thought.) I'm sure you all know that these were not the literal thoughts but just some common thoughts which express the extreme transition. How did I do that? What evidence was there to indicate that spilled milk would lead to the sky falling? Absolutely none. There was no earthquake, there were no other cataclismic events, it's not 2012 or the apacolypes. It's just spilled milk.

The tears went away, I felt like a huge weight had been lifted, my pride was no longer hurt. I had worked my way through thinking error number #6: Catastrophising. I feel liberated, I feel like the next time a situation arises where tears have been present in the past, that there will be no tears.

In looking at this more closely, I realized that I actually suffered from a few thinking errors, one right after another.

1. The person I was dealing with may have been (#5): Mindreading by assuming my motivation was something other than what it actually was.

But I know one thing for sure, once we clarified each of our motivations and why we were misunderstanding each other I still ended up in tears because

A. I went from "spilled milk" to "sky falling". (#6 Catastrophising)
B. From there, I went imediately to (#5: mindreading) "Great now everyone else is thinking...
C. (#9 Labeling) "....I'm a cry baby", more tears. Then
D.(#1: Personalizing) "I always say the wrong thing or put my foot in my mouth so I must be inadequate in one way or another", of course more tears....

I think now you can see the trainwreck ahead and may have even been guilty of this same type of destructive thought processes.

Perhaps someone will read this and reflect on their own work or life. Perhaps not. Perhaps to some I'm being preachy. But more than anything else, I feel a significant personal triumph in my life and my growing into a better person, and just the simple act of putting it into the ether helps me realize that someone, somewhere, at some time, might just benefit from my growth.

Bobbi

2010-03-15T07:33:00.000-07:00

Several things are going through my mind lately. A personal goal of mine has been to feed my family balanced meals for dinner regularly. How does this fit in to my knitting you ask? Well, I need to knit or craft daily for my sanity, and in doing so, I usually end up snacking and always end up sitting around. I decided that to reach my weightloss goals, I need to do something with my eating habits.

So far so good. The toughest part of this goal? How do I get my knitting and crafting in when I'm spending time in the kitchen cooking and cleaning. I have a small family, so fortunately the key has been to cook as little as possible while having substance and of course minimal use of dishes for a quick easy cleanup. I've actually been getting pretty good. Because of this goal, I'm thinking to myself, "I should write a book. 365 days of knitting and cooking. Quick hearty meals that leave plenty of time for a little knitting, and ideal projects that can be done a little at a time." While it's a nice idea, it will likely need to evolve and it will take time to put together. So my first suggestion? What do you eat. How do you balance your meals so that you don't over eat, so you feel satisfied, and you feel good? How do you eat what you want when there are so many good foods, and you feel guilty for every one of them that is put into your mouth? I promise if you start focusing on the tricks I give you here, you will start feeling a difference. I have finally reached a point where despite all my sitting around knitting, the weight is creeping off. In a healthy way, in a long lasting way.

Focus on Variety: Use your palm to measure everything. No don't put food items in your palm. Just visualize. Have three things on your plate. Protein, Starchy Carb, Vegetable. 1 palm size of each item. Don't focus on the fat content yet (you need fat to digest properly) Obviously you don't want to use a tub of lard or a cup of margarine. But If your starchy carb is a roll, put butter on it. Think It might be difficult to measure some items in 'palm sizes'? 1/2 - 3/4 cup is about right. Use a measuring cup. No scale, no precise measures, just your palm and a measuring cup. Try it for a week or two, see how different you feel. And if you have a tough day at work and need something comforting, have it. Whatever it is. And don't beat yourself up. Just get back to the basic plan tomorrow, or the next day or the day after that. Even if you try it for a few days, you will be doing something different and deserve a pat on the back.

Now that I have given you the first trick, I will be posting other tips that help me save time and plan meals accordingly. If anyone has questions that they want to ask or need more detail about what starchy carbs are, feel free to ask. I am now 6 pounds lighter than I was at the beginning of the year and plan to continue losing. So bear with me, focus on baby steps and really understanding them, and you will notice a difference.

Another thing I want to share.... Thinking errors. What is a thinking error?

"Thinking errors are irrational patterns of thinking that cause you to feel bad, and sometimes to act in self-defeating ways."

How does this relate to knitting you ask? More than you possibly know. There are many traits of my personality that I can see translated in my knitting. And in knitting, I have had to let some go and embrace others. Knitting has literally saved my life and continues to help me grow as an individual.

So #5 of the 10 Most Common Thinking errors is Mind-Reading. I like to live the "golden rule". But I have to remember that my "golden rule" is not necessarily like your "golden rule" Just becuase I think a certain way and my actions are motivated by how I think, does not mean that others think and behave the same way.

Do you suffer from this thinking error (be honest)? Do you critisize your knitting? Do you feel discouraged when it doesn't look right? Don't be. Just because you critisize it does not mean that others will. Don't assume that just because your unhappy with it, that others will also be unhappy with it. Most people will just be amazed that you not only had the patience to knit something fabulous, but they will also be amazed that you could turn a piece string into something more useful or purely asthetic (whatever the case may be).

So don't be hard on yourself because you think others will be hard on you. If you want to expect certain things of yourself in your knitting simply to challenge yourself, go ahead. Just don't be so critical that you rip out hours of work, because of a minor flaw.

One last thing. Apply this concept in reverse. Don't feel dissappointed when others don't live by your "golden rule." Remember that they don't think like you so their behaviors my not be like yours. This does not mean that they thinking any less of you, it simply means that they are thinking differenly than you.

You can take whatever you want from this post. I know that my goal this week is to minimize any dissatisfaction I may feel this week with myself or my knitting, and that if I focus a little extra attention to this particular thinking error, I may just learn something about myself.

As usual, thank you for bearing with me and happy knitting!!!

MYBOOTEE BABEE CHULLO

2010-03-12T13:41:00.000-08:00

Mybootee Babee Chullo
(Earflap Hat)
Click HERE for a printable version

Traducido por Nerea martínez ( Juntitos)

Required Materials:

Small: 100 yards Mybootee DK
Medium: 110 yards Mybootee DK
Large: 125 yards Mybootee DK
1 set DP needles size 5
1 16 inch circular needle size 5
*or size needed to obtain gauge. If you are a tight knitter start with a size 6, if you are a loose knitter, start with a size 4.

Small (fits 14-16 inch head circumference)
Medium (fits 16-18 inch head circumference)
Large (fits 18-20 inch head circuference)

Pattern:
Gauge: 6s x 8r = 1 inch2

Earflaps (make 2):
Starting with your DP needles, CO 4. Start with a purl row and work stockinette stitch for first three rows,
RS Row 4: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1, turn,
WS Row 5: purl, turn,
Repeat rows 4 & 5 until you have 26 (30, 34) stitches.

Put the 1st earflap onto a stitch holder tool and cut yarn. For the 2nd earflap only and while using your circular needle, repeat earflap intstructions but work RS Row 4 once more giving you 28(32, 36) stitches. Do not turn. Begin working in the round from here. Using the backward loop cast on, make 11 (13, 15) stitches. Pick up your first earflap with the stockinette pattern facing you and work row 4 of the earflap once more giving you 28 (32, 36) stitches. This time make 17 (21, 25) stitches now you have both earflaps on your circular needle and the new stitches, for a total of 84(98,112) place marker because this will be the start of each round.

Rounds 1-5: k28 (32, 36) work 1x1 ribbing until next earflap, k28 (32, 36) again, work 1x1 ribbing until marker.
Knit all stitches for 20 (24, 28) rows.
Decreasing rounds

Large: Work Rounds 1-26
Medium: Work Rounds 5-26
Small: Work Rounds 9-26
Round 1: k14, k2tog, until end of round (105 sts)
Round 2: knit
Round 3: k13, k2tog, until end of round, (98 sts)
Round 4: knit
Round 5: k12, k2tog, until end of round (91 sts)
Round 6: knit
Round 7: k11, k2tog until end of round (84 sts)
Round 8: knit
Round 9: k10, k2tog, until end of round (77 sts)
Round 10: knit
Round 11: k9, k2tog, until end of round (70 sts)
Round 12: knit
Round 13: k8, k2tog, until end of round (63 sts)
Round 14: knit
Round 15: k7, k2tog, until end of round (56 sts)
Round 16: knit
Round 17: k6, k2tog, until end of round (49 sts)
Round 18: knit
Round 19: k5, k2tog, until end of round (42 sts)
Round 20: knit
Round 21: (k4, k2tog) until end of round (35 sts)
Round 22: knit
Round 23: (k3, k2tog) until end of round (28 sts)
Round 24: (k2, k2tog) until end of round (21 sts)
Round 25: (k1, k2tog) until end of round (14 sts)
Round 26: (k2tog) x 7. Cut yarn and use a tapestry needle to gather last seven stitches tightly together. Weave in loose ends. Cut 12 lengths of yarn approximately 24-36 inches in length. Thread half of them through each earflap, braid and tie of ends.

Embellish any way you wish and put on your favorite baby’s head.

If you have become a fan of the previous version you can still access it here :Old version

Tabbee Pattern Idea

2010-03-12T10:24:00.000-08:00

This is for you Faye.....

I'd like to find out what you think of this face or if you like the other face better? The pattern is almost ready except that I needed to get your input on this guy. I know that I have communicated with you directly in the past but cannot for the life of me track it down.

Anyone else who may be reading this, I would also valur your input as well. I really wasn't satisfied with the other tabbee. Just didn't look right to me. So I sat down and redesigned the face in the effort of making him look more catlike. I like the new guy. I'll likely use the head on a pattern at a later date if the overall input encourages me to use the original head. Thank you for all your help.

I think Tabbee is liking his new look. Great ideas so far. Keep em coming!

Double Trio Reversible Cable Scarf

2010-03-09T09:48:00.000-08:00

Hello Everyone,

After the Hard drive foobar of last week, I have completed the first of my new patterns. Its now available in my Etsy Store and will be available at The Wool Cabin shortly. I am now currently putting finishing touches on my Sock Tabbee Pattern and will make the announcement as soon as it's ready

It's so soft and lucious and Berocco Vintage Wool has the best drape. I highly recommend it as a reasonably priced higher quality yarn. It can be purchased at The Wool Cabin and Unwind. It may be available at some other local yarn stores, but these are the two I'm aware of.

A tough lesson....

2010-03-03T15:53:00.000-08:00

Well folks,

I want to encourage each and every one of you to back up your data. Oh! did I mention back up your data? One more thing. Back up your data.

Are you detecting a theme? With much regret on my part, I am sad to report that there will be a delay on the release of my new Tabby Cat pattern. The last time I backed up my data was in May after my portable hard drive decided it was done. I did salvage many of my business e-resources, but much to my dismay, many of the newest images and patterns, are very likely gone forever. My advice? Listen to that little voice inside that says, "Wow, that was close, I should........ before ..........happens." We have intuition for a reason everyone. We should listen to it regularly and much more closely.

It has been only 24 hours since I last saw my new portable hard drive (the one with all the backed up data as well as all the new.) Now there is a slight chance that it will turn up, but I have to be realistic and assume that its gone for ever, and someone has themselves a new 500 GB hard drive with much of my sensitive personal information on it. Doh!! What can I do? FYI, its a pink Western Digital (just in case anyone finds one ;)

This is where my intuition enters the story. Just last week, I left it at work. Expected it to be there and it wasn't. I checked all the usual places that the other secretary would use to hide it. At least I thought I did. Of course it was not in the usual places. After looking one last time, I found it in a place that it had never been put before. That's when I said to myself, "Wow, that was close. I should really back up my data before something happens and I loose it all. If I lost the data, I would be up a creek"

Well here I am up that very creek.

So I just want to encourage everyone to get a move on and quit procrastinating, and listen to that little voice inside. Back up your data and trust what your intuition tells you. It might just save you a bit of time and effort.

Now that I have rambled a bit I have to get busy working on kit packaging. Updated packaging is part of what is now missing. But first I want to let everyone know that I will be making a third Tabby and I'm 98% sure I can have the new pattern ready by 3/17. Thank you for hanging in there and again I apologize for the delay.

I dream of spinning...

2010-01-18T05:42:00.000-08:00

Last night I dreamt of spinning. Which is not suprising due to the fact that the pound of superwash merino/nylon roving that I purchased about a year ago has been calling my name lately. Not only that but also in response to the calling, I dyed up a batch a week or so ago and spun it up into a nice two ply worsted weight yarn. After spining it up on my homemade drop spindle, I could hardly weight to spin up some more. This time I tried one of my more popular colorways: Elaine. So far so good. I'll share the pics soon in my Ravelry stash, but here is a pic of the first batch. For all you local knitters out there who have also been bitten by the spinning bug, you can look forward to seeing some hand dyed roving at the 2010 Salt Lake City Art & Craft Market!

Another updated fav!!!

2009-12-30T06:29:00.000-08:00

This is Anne. I decided that with all the beautiful designer fabrics out there, she needed a newer look.

Features fabrics by Riley Blake

My own hand painted yarn in the Hannah colorway.

All clothing can be removed for washing and she is stuffed with polyester fiber fill for an extra spongy feel.

Same great design, new look!

The Heavens opened up and the angels began to sing....

2009-12-29T06:38:00.000-08:00

People often ask me, "why do you do it that way?" or "Wouldn't it be easier if.....?" And my answer is always something like "Because that is the way I learned it first." So let me ask all of you out there, isn't that how it often is where your knitting is concerned? I mean, don't we tackle the challenge of learning a technique and stick with it because we initially put so much effort into learning it in the first place?

Guess what folks! We don't have to. I came across the a new cast on technique at Knitty.com today. And that was when the Heavens opened up and the angels began to sing. I have posted the link to the right in the "knitting techniques" section. I remember learning the Provisional Cast On because I was entranced by the possibility of knitting from both sides of the cast on. Then after attempting to teach this technique to someone who just could not get the hang of it no matter how many times she tried (bless her heart), I took the concept and came up with a modified version, which I later found out already had a name, the Turkish Cast On.
Once you get the hang of a Turkish Cast On, you realize concept is so simple. As was the case with me. I thought I might never use any other type of cast on for my own personal knitting. However I still find it a challenge to teach to people. I think it may be possible that this new technique might be easier for many to understand so I can't wait to start working with it. See if I can hone my teaching skills a bit to help others find that easy cast on that may have thus far eluded them. Click here if you want to check it out! I'd love to hear what you think. Thanks again knitty.com!

New Pattern Coming Soon!

2009-12-23T07:23:00.000-08:00

I would like to introduce the newest member of our little sock animal family. Inspired by the Build-A-Bear Orange Tabby (which has been discontinued). I will be working this pattern up and will have it available for purchase as of January 1st through ravelry. Of course this guy does not have to be a Orange Tabby or even a Tabby for that matter, but I will be adjusting his ears to be a little smaller for the final version.

I was once young and naive in thinking that writing patterns was really no big deal. Well now I'm not so naive (and definately not so young). I have learned so much this past couple of years, and realize there are many aspects to writing patterns that I never even considered. I appreciate all the support that I have gotten and want to continue sharing most of my patterns royalty free and at no charge. However some of the more developed patterns I will have to start collecting a small fee. I do want to apologize in advance for this and let everyone know that it was a very tough decision for me to come to. I hope for your continued interest, inspiration, and feedback.

Thank you

SOCK TURTLE 1.1

2009-12-22T12:00:00.001-08:00

Gauge: 6s x 9r = 1 inch
Exact gauge is not essential for this project, but be sure to knit with smaller needles than your yarn recommends.

Materials: 40 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) undyed DK weight yarn, 40 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK Weight yarn, 1 set #2 (2.75 mm) DPNs, 12 in #2 (2.75 mm) circular needle. 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill, 1 tapestry needle.

CLICK HERE FOR PRINTABLE COPY

Stitch Instructions
k - knit; p - purl; st(s) - stitch(es); CO - Cast On; sl - slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle; ybwd - Move working yarn to back; DPN(s) - Double pointed needle(s); rem - remain(s), remaining; yfwd - Bring working yarn in front; BO - Bind off; unwkd - unworked
Turkish Cast on - Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with a scap peice of yarn (double thickness) below it (if you have an extra #2 circ any length, you can use it instead). Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment) - Sl 1 st from the Left needle onto the Right needle. Pick up a st below next st on left needle, sl 1 st from right needle back onto left needle, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment) - sl 1 st from the Left needle onto the Right needle. Pick up a st below next st on left needle, sl 1 st from right needle back onto left needle, k2tog
Consolidate - Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. Hold them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a 3rd needle knit-wise into the 1st st on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the 1st st on the back needle. k2tog.
k2tog - insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together.
RS -The right side of your work that appears mostly as stockinette st.
Short Rows - A technique that adds shape by partially knitting a row. There will be unwkd sts left over when you turn back to knit the other way. Do not sl unwkd sts from left-hand needle to right-hand needle.

INTRODUCTION
The majority of this project is knitted in the round, but there are sections that are knitted flat such as when short row shaping is required. The size of the finished item can be easily adjusted by using larger yarn and larger needles. However, this pattern has been designed with our accompanying kits in mind so individual results will vary. To obtain the best results, Mybootee DK or Mybootee Sock Piggee/Turtle Kits are recommended. Please contact us if you have any questions or need clarification.

INSTRUCTIONS:
This little guy is knitted from the belly up. You will attach the limbs & head as you make them, then finish off with the shell.

BELLY
Use DPNs to work in the round.
Round 1: With Y2 CO 60, join ends and begin knitting in the round being careful not to twist sts when joining.
*Round 2 & all even rounds: knit all sts.
Odd Rounds: Decrease evenly by 10 sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 30 sts rem.

*Odd Rounds: Decrease evenly by 6 sts.
All even Rounds: knit all sts*
Repeat from * to * until 12 sts rem.
Final Round: (k2tog) 6 times, (6 sts rem). Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and using a tapestry needle, thread it through all the sts removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight & tie off on the purl side of the work. Don’t worry if it does not lay flat of if it looks kind of small, this will go away once you stuff him.

To set up for the limbs, use the circular needle to pick up 60 sts along the cast on edge of the belly with RS facing you. Knit all 60 sts once then put to the side & begin limbs.

TAIL
Use DPNs & your favorite cast on method & Y1 to CO 4 sts
Round 1: knit all sts once
*Even Rounds: Increase evenly by 2 sts.
Odd Rounds: knit all sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 12 sts rem.

Consolidate the sts (see stitch instructions). 6 sts rem. Cut yarn & leave approx 6 in to prevent sts coming undone during the attachment step.

To attach tail, pick up the belly and with the RS facing you, and locate first 6 sts on the left-hand needle. Align them with the 6 sts of the tail, and consolidate them. Do not continue knitting, put to the side. You'll make the next two legs, then you'll attach them (starting with the next 6 sts of the belly).

LEGS (make 2)
Using Y1 and the Turkish Cast-On Technique (see stitch instructions) CO 24. The slip-knot does not count as one of your stitches, Don’t forget to purl a row. Work short rows on two DPNs with only 12 sts
Row 1: sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn, Row 2: sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn, Row 3: sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 7: sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 8: sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl 1, p until end of row, do not p enc
Row 11: sl 1, k until end of row, do not k enc. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short rows. If you used a circular needle for the cast on knit all of the sts on it. If you used scrap yarn, slip all the sts onto DPNs then knit them all. This is where each round will begin for now.

Rounds 1-5: knit all 24 sts. Divide sts evenly between two needles. Don't worry if it's not exactly symmetrical, this will resolve when you stuff it with fiberfill.

*Even rounds: To decrease each round by 4 sts, k2tog at each end of each needle.
Odd rounds: knit all sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 12 sts rem. Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches desired firmness, consolidate the sts (see st instructions). 6 sts rem. Cut yarn & leave approx 6 in to prevent sts coming undone during attachment. Place 1st leg onto a piece of scrap yarn or st saver tool until you finish the 2nd leg.

To attach the 1st leg,* align the next 6 sts of the belly, with the 6 sts of the 1st leg & consolidate.* K12. Repeat from * to * for the second leg. Do not continue knitting. Put to the side. You'll make the head next, then you'll attach it (starting with the next 6 sts of the belly).

HEAD
Pay special attention to the shaping for this piece or it will be crooked. Using Y1 and the Turkish Cast On Technique (see stitch instructions) CO 32. The slip-knot does not count as one of your stitches, Don’t forget to purl a row. Work short rows on two DPNs with only 16 sts
Row 1: sl 1, k until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 2: sl 1, p until 1 st rem, turn,
Row 3: sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 4: sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, turn,
Row 5: sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 6: sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, turn,
Row 7: sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn,
Row 8: sl 1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl 1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl 1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: sl 1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: sl 1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: sl 1, p until end of row, do not p enc
Row 15: sl 1, k until end of row, do not k enc. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short rows. If you used a circular needle for the cast on knit all of the sts on it. If you used scrap yarn, slip all the sts onto DPNs then knit them all. This is where each round will begin for now. Don't worry if it's not exactly symmetrical, this will resolve when you stuff it with fiberfill.

Rounds 1-5: knit all 32 sts.
Round 6: (k1, k2tog, k1) 4 times, k16
Round 7: knit all 28 sts.
Round 8: k2, k2tog x 4, k18
Round 9: knit all 24 sts.
Round 10: k2tog, k4, k2tog, (k3, k2tog, k3) twice
Round 11: knit all 20 sts
Round 12: k6, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) x3, k2tog.
Round 13: knit all 16 sts
Round 14: k7, k2tog x 4, k1
Round 15: knit all 12 sts. Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches desired firmness, consolidate the stitches (see stitch instructions). Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches.

To attach the head, align the next 6 sts of the belly, with the 6 sts of the head & consolidate.

Repeat LEG instructions for the rem legs and attach them in the same way you did before. Whew! Now you've made it through the hardest part. k3. This is where each round starts from here until you finish. This is also the best time to weave in all loose ends. The nice thing is that you can weave them in on the WS of the belly and then just leave them there. There is no need to cut the excess because it will just be included with the stuffing. Also you can now use any combination of #2 needles that is comfortable for you to work with.

SHELL
Rounds 1-2: purl all 60 sts
Rounds 3-14: knit all 60 sts

*Odd Rounds: decrease evenly by 6 sts.
Even Rounds: knit all sts.*
Repeat from * to * until 30 sts rem. Take a moment to stuff the bottom half of the body but don’t stuff too full. You will be stuffing more before you close the top.

Remaining Rounds: Decrease evenly by 6 sts until 6 sts rem. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining stitches. Do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill until your desired firmness, then pull tight, tie off, & weave in loose end.

FINISHING
Use the black yarn or DMC floss to embroider on the facial features.
I start with a chain stitch for the mouth, then I make the nostrils, followed by the eyes, and eyebrows. It takes a little practice to get the embroidery to look right, if you have not already had experience with it. If you prefer not to embroider, you can use buttons or safety eyes. Another option would be to use a needle and thread to sew on felt eyes.

2009-12-22T11:44:00.000-08:00

Sorry for the inconvenience but my blog formatting is wacky today and I don't have any time to fix it. Please download the PDF version 2009 Sock Hippo Pattern Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification.Don’t forget to share your images with us on Ravelry!You'll begin this critter by making the legs and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make a tail, the ears, and the horns and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.Legs (make 4):With Y1 CO 24 stitches. Do not turn. You’ll be knitting in the round by working from the first stitch you casted on.Round 1: knitRound 2: (k8, inc 1,) 3 times. (27 stitches)Round 3: knitRound 4: (k9, inc 1,) 3 times, (30 stitches)Round 5: knitRound 6: purlRound 7: knitRound 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches),Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches)Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off.Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the knit side and begin working with the cast on edge. Switch to Y2 and pick up 24 stitches along the cast on edge.Round 1: knitRound 2: (k6, k2tog,) 3 times (21 stitches)Round 3: knitRound 4: (k5, k2tog,) 3 times (18 stitches)Rounds 5-8: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill and close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches). Transfer all legs to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.Head:With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast-On Method, wrap yarn counter clockwise from left to right 16 times. This gives you 32 stitches, but you will work short rows on only 16 for now.Row 1: sl1, k14, (1 st remains unworked) turn,Row 2: sl1, p13, (1 st remains unworked) turn,Row 3: sl1, k12, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 4: sl1, p11, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 5: sl1, k10, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 6: sl1, p9, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 7: sl1, k8, (4 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 8: sl1, p7, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 9: sl1, k8, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 10: sl1, p9, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 11: sl1, k10, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 12: sl1, p11, p enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn,Row 13: sl1, k12, k enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turnRow 14: sl1, purl accross, (you will not p enc here, because you should be at the end of the row) turn,Row 15: sl1, knit across.Begin working rounds now. Slide your circular needle into place and just continue knitting the stitches along the cast on edge. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. (Now is a good time to start using your DP needles or if you prefer can use two circulars). Once you knit the stitches along the cast on edge, move the yarn tail to the front of your work. It will mark the beginning of each round.Rounds 1-5: knit, Snout:Row 1: This step doubles the next 16 stitches. Begin short rows again only working 16 stitches with Y1. (inc 1, k1) 8 times (k1, inc 1) 8 times (32 stitches), turn, (I use a backward loop cast on or a “inc 1”. if you can’t decide on a good increase method, you can KFB all 16 stitches for your first time through this pattern.)Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 3: sl1, k29, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 6: sl1, p26, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 7: sl1, k25, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 8: sl1, p24, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 9: sl1, k23, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 10: sl1, p22, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 11: sl1, k21, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 12: sl1, p20, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 13: sl1, k19, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 14: sl1, p18, (7 sts remain unworked) turnRow 15: sl1, k17, k enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 16: sl1, p18, p enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turnRow 17: sl1, k19, k enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 18: sl1, p20, p enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turnRow 19: sl1, k21, k enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 20: sl1, p22, p enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turnRow 21: sl1, k23, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 22: sl1, p24, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turnRow 23: sl1, k25, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 24: sl1, p26, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turnRow 25: sl1, k27, k enc, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 26: sl1, p28, p enc, (1 st remains unworked) turnRow 27: sl1, k29, k enc, turnRow 28: sl1, p30, p enc, turnRow 29: sl1, k31, do not k enc, do not turn. Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y2 onto and resume working in the round by knitting the next 16 stitches. You should now be at the beginning of each round once again.Head cont:…Round 6: (k2tog) 16 times. k16, (you should have 32 stitches total)Round 7: knit 9:Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches)Round 9: knitRound 10: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 stitches). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.rounds 11-12: knit.Body:Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on.Round 1: (k4, inc 1, k4) 3 times (27 stitches)Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, Inc 1, k9, Inc 1, k8, Inc 1, k5 (30 stitches)Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together.While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting. Pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row. Hold the body needle and the leg needle parallel so that the body is farthest away from you and the leg is in the front. Consolidate (see instructions below) the next 9 stitches of the body with the 9 stitches of the leg. Now attach a second leg in the same manner as the first, k6 to finish off the roundRound 5: knitRound 6: k5, inc 1, knit to last 5, inc 1, k5 (32 stitches)Round 7: knitRound 8: k5, inc 1, k10, inc1, k2, inc1, k10, inc 1, k5 (36 stitches)Round 9: knitRound 10: k6, inc 1, k to last 6, inc 1, k6 (38 stitches)Round 11: knitRound 12: k6, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k2, inc 1, k12, inc 1, k6 (42 stitches)Round 13: knitRound 14: (k7, inc 1) twice, k5, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k5,(inc 1, k7) twice (48 stitches)Round 15: knitRound 16: (k8, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k4, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k8) twice (54 stitches)Round 17: knitRound 18: (k9, inc 1) twice, k6, inc 1, k6, inc 1, k6,(inc 1, k9) twice (60 stitches). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle.Rounds 19-26: knit,Round 27: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice, (54 stitches)Round 28: knit,Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 stitches)Round 30: k13. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions below) for one leg only. k4, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k13,Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 stitches)Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 stitches)Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.Ears (make 2):Row 1: Using Y2 CO 18 stitches, turn,Row 2: sl1, p2tog 8 times, p1, turn,Row 3: sl1, k2tog 4 times, k1, do not turn, cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the 6 remaining stitches pull tight. Fold the ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom edge together. Secure each ear to the top of the head along the line where you began to work the encroachment stitch earlier.Finishing: Embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first Sock Hippo. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.© 2008 Mybootee Boutique

2009 Babee Sox

2009-12-15T06:33:00.000-08:00

Ribbed Babee Sox

Click HERE if you still need the old version.

Required Materials:
#2 DPNs, #2 Circular Needle
(required for Cast-On And Heel Turning)
1 Hank Mybootee Handpainted Sock yarn
(210 yrds)
Or for C1-3 & C4-6
2 Hanks Mybootee Handpainted Sock Yarn
(420 yrds)

Gauge 7s x 10r = 1 inch

Makes 7 different sizes!
Infant Shoe Sizes: I1-2 & I3-4
Toddler Shoe Sizes T5-7, T8-10, &
T11-13
Children’s Shoe Sizes C1-3 & C4-6

Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have comments or need clarification.
*Note: Sizes are designed to fit chubby little feet. If you child has narrow or slender feet, you may want to size down.

Start Here
Using the Turkish Cast On method cast on (24, 28, 36, 42, 50, 54, 56) stitches (12/14/18/21/25/27/28) wraps. Work Short Row Toe until you complete Row 27.
Short Row Toe
*Unless otherwise stated, simply turn your work at the end of each row.
Row 1: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 2: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 3: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 4: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 5: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd
For I1-2 & I3-4 only, skip to row 22
Row 6: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 7: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd
For T5-7 & T8-10 only, skip to Row 20
Row 8: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem unwkd
Row 9: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem unwkd
For T11-13 only, skip to row 18
Row 10: yfwd, sl 1, p until 5 sts rem unwkd
Row 11: ybwd, sl 1, k until 6 sts rem unwkd
For C1-3 only, skip to row 16
Row 12: yfwd, sl 1, p until 6 sts rem unwkd
Row 13: ybwd, sl 1, k until 7 sts rem unwkd
Row 14: yfwd, sl 1, p until 7 sts rem p enc
(6 sts rem unwkd
Row 15: ybwd, s l1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Resume C1-3
Row 16: yfwd, sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc(5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: ybwd, sl1 k until 6sts rem, k enc(5 sts rem unwkd)
Resume T11-13
Row 18: yfwd, sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc(4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: ybwd, sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc(4 sts rem unwkd)
Resume T5-7 & T8-10
Row 20: yfwd, sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc(3 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 21: ybwd, sl1, k until 4 sts rem k enc(3 sts rem
unwkd)
Resume 1-2 & I3-4
Row 22: yfwd, sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc(2 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 23: ybwd, sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc(2 sts rem
unwkd)
Row 24: yfwd, sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 25: ybwd, sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 26: yfwd, sl1, p across, do not p enc,
Row 27: ybwd, sl1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn

Begin working in the round by knitting the 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts from the circular needle.

K6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13). You should now be at the start of each round. Your finished toe should look like this.

Set up for the foot:
Round 1: k5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17), (m1, k2) x 7, m1, k5
(7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17). You should now have 32 (36, 40,
44, 48, 52, 56)
Round 2: knit
Foot: Work rounds of the foot as follows….
For I1-2:
Rounds 3-26 k7, p2, (k2, p2) until 7 sts rem, k7
For I3-4
Rounds, 3-32 k9, p2, (k2, pc) until 9 sts rem, k9
For T5-7
Rounds, 3-38, k9, p2, (k2, pc) until 9 sts rem, k9
For T8-10
Rounds 3-44 k11, p2, (k2, p2) until 11 sts rem, k11
For T11-13
Rounds 3-50 k11, p2, (k2, p2) until 11 sts rem, k11
For C1-3
Rounds 3-56 k13, p2, (k2, p2) until 13 sts rem, k13
For C4-6
Rounds 3-62 k13, p2, (k2, p2) until 13 sts rem, k13

Set up for the heal turning:
k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14). Use circular needle work

one more foot round until 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts rem. Use DPN to k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14).

You’ll work the heel the same as the foot and just pretend the sts on the circular needle do not exist for now. *Unless otherwise stated, simply turn your work at the end of each row.

Row 1: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 2: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 3: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 4: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 5: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 6: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 7: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd
For I1-2 & I3-4 only, skip to row 20
Row 8: yfwd, Sl 1, p until 4 sts rem unwkd
Row 9: ybwd, Sl 1, k until 5 sts rem unwkd
For T5-7 & T8-10 only, skip to Row 18
Row 10: yfwd, sl 1, p until 5 sts rem unwkd
Row 11: ybwd, sl 1, k until 6 sts rem unwkd
For T11-13 only, skip to row 16
Row 12: yfwd, sl 1, p until 6 sts rem unwkd
Row 13: ybwd, sl 1, k until 7 sts rem unwkd
Row 14: yfwd, sl 1, p until 7 sts rem, p enc,
(6 sts rem unwkd
Row 15: ybwd, s l1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, (6 sts
rem unwkd)
Resume T11-13
Row 16: yfwd, sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc(5 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 17: ybwd, sl1 k until 6sts rem, k enc(5 sts
rem unwkd)
Resume T5-7 & T8-10
Row 18: yfwd, sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc(4 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 19: ybwd, sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc(4 sts
rem unwkd)
Resume 1-2 & I3-4
Row 20: yfwd, sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc(3 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 21: ybwd, sl1, k until 4 sts rem k enc(3 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 22: yfwd, sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc(2 sts
rem unwkd)
Row 23: ybwd, sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc(2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 24: yfwd, sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 25: ybwd, sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc(1 st rem
unwkd)
Row 26: yfwd, sl1, p until 1 st rem, p enc (lifted stitch will come from below the first st on the circular needle)
Row 27: ybwd, sl1, k until 1 st rem, k enc (lifted stitch will
come from below the first st on the circular needle)

Work stitches from circular needle in established foot pattern, k8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14).

Next 6 Rounds all sizes:
Work same as rounds of the foot

Cuff:
For I1-2:
Rounds 1-24: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1
For I3-4
Rounds 1-30: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
For T5-7:
Rounds 1-36: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
For T8-10:
Rounds 1-42: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1
T11-13:
Rounds 1-48: p1, (k2, p2) until 1 st rem, p1
C1-3:
Rounds 1-54: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1
C4-6:
Rounds 1-60: k1, (p2, k2) until 1 st rem, k1

BO using the Tubular bind off method to obtain a stretchy cuff, weave in loose ends and voila!

Sock Monkee 2.1

2009-12-14T08:31:00.000-08:00

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you

Click here for v2.0
Click here for a printable version

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inchMaterials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set 2.75 mm #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch 2.75 mm #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 1 skein black DMC floss or 2-3 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, 1 skein red DMC floss or 2-3 yards of red sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

If you need clarification, email us at mybb@comcast.net Don’t forget to share your images with us on Ravelry!

Stitch Instructions
k:knit
ybwd: Move working yarn to back
p:purl
DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining
st(s):stitch(es )
CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front
BO: Bind off unwkd:u n wo rk e d sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps.) yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up 1 st below next st, k2tog.
Consolidation: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog. m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase stitch if you prefer) k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.) I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire. KFB: knit next st, do not slide off the left needle yet. Instead ybwd, insert right needle purl-wise into the back loop of the same stitch and knit. You now have two sts where you once had one.

For this project you'll make the limbs first then you will begin the head & work from the top down attaching them at intervals. Once the body is complete, you'll make the eyes/ears/tail & attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features & you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.

Legs (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), CO 20 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on only 10 sts
Row 1: Sl 1, k unti l1 st remains unwkd, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unwkd, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unwkd, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Now is a good time to remove the slip knot. Slide the circular needle in a leftward direction to put into working position and knit those stitches.
Rounds 1-14: Knit all 20 sts. Switch to Y2
Rounds 15-44: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill & close using the Consolidation Method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have 10 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches. Transfer each leg to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.

Tail: With Y1, and your favorite cast on method, CO 4, do not turn, knit an I-Cord for about 14 rounds.
Switch to Y2, continue knitting until tail measures about 2 inches longer than the legs. No need to consolidate these 4
stitches, just cut yarn and transfer to your spare needle or scrap yarn.

Arms: (make 2): With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast On method (see stitch instructions), cast on 16 sts. *The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on only 8 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 6: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs and continue knitting in the round.
Rounds 1-10: Knit all 16 sts. Switch to Y2
Rounds 11-34: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill & Consolidation (see stitch instructions) sts. * you should now have 8 live stitches. Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches. Transfer to spare needle, scrap of yarn, or stitch saver tool with the purl side of the final row facing you.

Head: With Y1 & using the Turkish Cast-On Method, cast on 40 stitches. Work short rows on only 20 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 19: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Slide the circular needle into place as you did for the legs, k20, switch to Y2. You’ll begin knitting in the round by knitting all 40 stitches. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work, also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. Start knitting the stitches from the circular needle. Now bring your yarn tail forward, to mark the start of each round.
Rounds 1-14: knit all 40 sts. Switch to Y1

Snout: This part is worked the same as the top of the head, in short rows across only two needles with only 20 sts. I f you are using 4 double points, slip the last 20 stitches worked on your circular needle for ease. And work the next 20 with three needles. If you are using two circulars, you will simply work short rows on one circular needle.
Row 1: k 2, KFB 4 times, k until the last six stitches of the round, KFB 4 times, k2, turn, (28 sts)
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 10: Sl 1 p until 5 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 12: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 13: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 14: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 15: Sl 1, k until 8 sts remain, k enc, turn, (7 sts remain unworked)
Row 16: Sl 1, p until 7 sts remain, p enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 17: Sl 1, k until 7 sts remain, k enc, turn, (6 sts remain unworked)
Row 18: Sl 1, p until 6 sts remain, p enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 19: Sl 1, k until 6 sts remain, k enc, turn, (5 sts remain unworked)
Row 20: Sl 1, p until 5 sts remain, p enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 21: Sl 1, k until 5 sts remain, k enc, turn, (4 sts remain unworked)
Row 22: Sl 1, p until 4 sts remain, p enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 23: Sl 1, k until 4 sts remain, k enc, turn, (3 sts remain unworked)
Row 24: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 25: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 26: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 27: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc (slipped stitch is Y1, lifted stitch is Y2,) turn, (1 sts remain unworked)
Row 28: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 29: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn. Switch to Y2. Begin knitting in the round. K10 stitches and you should now be at the back of the head for the beginning of each round from now on. Work with all sts from now on.

Head continued:
Round 15: k12, k2tog four times, k8, k2tog 4 times, k12 (40 sts)
Round 16: knit
Round 17: k8, k2tog twice, k16, k2tog twice, k8 (36 sts)
Rounds 18: knit
Round 19: k7, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k7 (30 stitches)
Round 20: knit
Round 21: k6, k2tog twice, (k2, k2tog) 3 times, k2tog, k6 (24 stitches). Now you should have what looks like a really short fat sock with a white heel and white toe.
Rounds 22 & 23: Knit

Body: Round 24: k4, KFB, k14, KFB, k4 (26 stitches)
Round 25: k4, KFB, k6, KFB, k2, KFB, k6, KFB, k4 (30 stitches)
Round 26: knit
Round 27: k4, consolidate the next 8 sts with the sts on 1 arm. To do this, hold the body section in your left hand and place the first arm in front of the body section with the purl side of final row facing you. Consolidate (see instructions) sts, k6, consolidate the next arm with the next 8 sts, k4
Round 28: knit
Round 29: k5, KFB, k18, KFB, k5 (32 stitches)
Round 30: k5, KFB, k8, KFB, k2, KFB, k8, KFB, k5 (36 stitches)
Round 31: knit
Round 32: k6, KFB, k22, KFB, k6 (38 stitches)
Round 33: k6, KFB, k10, KFB, k2, KFB, k10, KFB, k6 (42 stitches)
Round 34: knit
Round 35: k7, KFB, k26, KFB, k7 (44 stitches)
Round 36: k7, KFB, k12, KFB, k2, KFB, k12, KFB, k7 (48 stitches)
Round 37: knit
Round 38: k8, KFB, k13, KFB, k2, KFB, k13, KFB, k8 (52 stitches)
Rounds 39 – 59: knit
Round 60: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k24, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog. You should have 2 sts left before the end of the round. Now attach the tail using the consolidation method (see instructions), which you used earlier with the arms. This puts you 2 sts into the next round. (46 stitches)
Round 61: knit 44.
Round 62: (k2, k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2) twice, k2, (40 stitches)
Switch to Y1
Round 63: k10. Now you’ll consolidate the legs the same way you did earlier (see instructions) for one leg only, and attach a second leg in the same manner, k10
Round 64: knit
Round 65: k4, (k2tog, k8) three times, k2tog, k4 (36 stitches)
Round 66: knit
Round 67: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 68: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches)
Round 69: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 70: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches)
Round 71: k2tog 6 times, cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches but do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Eyes: Using Y1, CO 16 sts, join ends and knit in the round,
Round 1: knit,
Round 2: [k2tog] 8 times,
Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail and using a tapestry needle thread it through the stitches, removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight enough to close any gap, then pass the needle from front to back through the center of the eye. Now pass the needle through the head at the point where you’d like the eyes to be centered. This tacks the eye into place a little so that you can stitch it into place with a needle and thread.

Ears (Monkee Only): Using Y2 and the Turkish Cast On Method (see stitch instructions), CO 24, turn
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st remains unworked, turn,
Row 3: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 4: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 5: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain unworked, turn,
Row 6: Sl 1, p until 3 sts remain, p enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 7: Sl 1, k until 3 sts remain, k enc, turn, (2 sts remain unworked)
Row 8: Sl 1, p until 2 sts remain, p enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 9: Sl 1, k until 2 sts remain, k enc, turn, (1 st remains unworked)
Row 10: Sl 1, p across, do not p enc, turn,
Row 11: Sl 1, k across, do not k enc, do not turn, begin working in the round.
Rounds 1-3: knit,

Divide stitches evenly onto two DP needles, Stuff the ears with a little poly fill and consolidate as you did for the legs and arms. You now have 12 live stitches. Cut yarn to leave about 12 inches of yarn to secure the ears to the head along the column of stitches that lead from the edge of the snout to the top of the head. There should be about 14 and you can just stitch them into place as evenly as possible. *I like to work with two sts at a time. Run the through the first two stitches on the ear, then through the first two sts on the head. Then just repeat this and tie off.*

Cut the yarn leaving enough length that you can use it to secure the ear to the head. At the top of the head you’ll see two subtle lines that formed along the increase decrease lines. Secure each ear along these lines.

Finishing: Use a Basic Chain stitch to embroider on the mouth, eyebrows, and nostrils. Secure the Eyes into place with a needle and matching thread and finish off with a Star Stitch finishes off the eyes and voila! You have your very own Sock Monkee 2.1!

New Ornament

2009-12-07T09:26:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone!

I wanna thank everyone who came out to see us at the Old World Christmas Market this year and helped us make the event a success. Look for us again next year. We made some new friends this year at the market as well as caught up with some old ones. One of our new friends is Beverly at Beverly Hill's Bakery. I have to say that I don't eat pie crust but hers is the best I've had. My fav is the Triple Berry Pie. Just the right amount of sweet and tart and in warm with a little vanilla bean ice cream.....ok enough said. I might have to go get another one this weekend.

I want to introduce everyone to our latest little ornament. This little guy has been very popular and is currently only available through special order. Wait a minute, I guess if you've been to my website, you would probably have to say that about everything we have except the hand painted yarn. Too busy, what else can I say? Well here he is!

...and this is my favorite part!

SOCK GIRAFFE 1.2

2009-11-19T11:10:00.000-08:00

PREVIOUS VERSIONS AVAILABLE 2009 Version : 2010 Version

Note: This pattern has been tested with Mybootee DK Yarn and was designed with our kits in mind. Please try other yarns at your own discretion. Thank you

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Note: Gauge is not critical with this project. The most imortant part is that for whatever yarn you choose, yardage may vary and you want a smaller needle than what your yarn suggests.

Materials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string, Polyester Fiber-fill,

Email us at mybb@comcast.net if you have questions or need clarification. Don’t forget to share your images with us on Ravelry!

Stitch Instructions
k:knit - ybwd: Move working yarn to back - p:purl - DPN(s): Double pointed needle(s)
rem: remain(s), remaining - st(s): stitch(es) - CO: Cast On
yfwd: Bring working yarn in front - BO: Bind off - unwkd: unworked
sl: slip st purl-wise from left needle to right needle.
Turkish Cast on: Tie a slip-knot in the yarn, hold DPN horizontally with the circular needle below it. Place the slip-knot onto both needles & tighten with working yarn hanging down. Wrap yarn counterclockwise towards the right until you have half the number of wraps as CO sts (pattern says “CO 32”, you should have 16 wraps). Bring yfwd between the two needles. Slide circular needle towards the right, positioning the nylon cable in the bottom half of loops with the tips dangling. Insert a third needle purl-wise into the first loop & purl a stitch & slide it off the left needle as you would do with regular sts. Repeat this step for the appropriate number of loops on the left needle. You now have the proper number of stitches. Half on 1 needle and half on the other.
p enc (purl encroachment): sl 1, pick up st just below next st, lift onto the left hand needle. p2tog
k enc (knit encroachment): sl 1, pick up st just below next st, lift onto the left hand needle, k2tog.
Consolidate: Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. While holding them horizontal & parallel to each other, insert a third needle knit-wise into the first stitch on your front needle then insert the needle knit-wise into the first stitch on the back needle. k2tog.
m1(a): make a backward loop and place it on the right hand needle with the working yarn pointing away from you (You may substitute your favorite increase stitch if you prefer)
k2tog tbl: insert right needle into two stitches purl-wise through the back loop of each stitch, knit them together. (You may substitute k2tog if you prefer, I use this method simply for ease.)
I-Cord: Cast on 4 sts using DPNs. Knit, do not turn, slide the sts back to the beginning of the needle and k the row again. Continue in this manner until you have a short length of knitting, pull down on the cord and the gap at the back will close. Continue until the cord is the length you desire.

DIRECTIONS
You'll begin this critter by making the legs and putting them aside for later. Then you will begin the head and work from the top down attaching the legs at intervals. Once the body is complete you will make a tail, the ears, and the horns and attach them. The final step will be to embroider on his facial features and you are free to embellish him as you wish. Enjoy.

Legs (make 4): Begin hooves with Y1, CO 24 sts. Join ends and work in the round from the top down.
Round 1: knit all 24 sts
Round 2: (k8, m1,) 3 times. (27 sts)
Round 3: knit all 24 sts
Round 4: (k9, m1,) 3 times, (30 sts)
Round 5: knit all 30 sts
Round 6: purl all 30 sts
Round 7: knit all 30 sts
Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 sts),
Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 sts)
Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 sts) cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off.

With Y2 and pick up 24 stitches along the cast on edge of the hoof so you can work towards the top of each leg.
Round 1: knit all 24 sts
Round 2: (k6, k2tog,) 3 times (21 sts)
Round 3: knit all 21 sts
Round 4: (k5, k2tog,) 3 times (18 sts)

Rounds 5-24: knit all 18 sts. Stuff with fiber-fill & Consolidate (see stitch instructions) sts. (9 sts). Cut yarn leaving approximately 6 inches of length & 9 live sts.

Transfer all legs to a spare needle, scrap of yarn (double thickness), or a stitch saver tool as they are completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be helpful when you attach them to the body.
Head: With Y2 & the Turkish Cast On method (see st instructions), CO 32 sts. *Don’t forget to purl a row. The slip knot does not count as one of your stitches. Work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 16 sts.
Row 1: sl1, k until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 2: sl1, p until 1 st rem unwkd
Row 3: sl1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 4: sl1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd
Row 5: sl1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 6: sl1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd
Row 7: sl1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd
Row 8: sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 9: sl1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 10: sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 11: sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 12: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 13: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 14: sl1, purl across, Do not p enc because you are at the end of the row.
Row 15: sl1, knit across. Do not k enc because you are at the end of the row. Do not turn because you are at the end of the short rows. Remove the slip knot. Knit the 16 sts from the circular needle.

Rounds 1-4: knit all 32 sts
Round 5: knit 16 sts, switch to your circular needle to knit the rem16 sts.

Snout: Switch to Y1 & work short rows on 2 DPNs with only 16 sts. Ignore the sts on the circular needle for now.
Row 1: (k1, m1) x 7, k2, (m1, k1) x 7 (30 sts),
Row 2: sl1, p until 1 st rem unwkd, turn,
Row 3: sl1, k until 1 st rem unwkd, turn,
Row 4: sl1, p until 2 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 5: sl1, k until 2 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 6: sl1, p until 3 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 7: sl1, k until 3 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 8: sl1, p until 4 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 9: sl1, k until 4 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 10: sl1, p until 5 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 11: sl1, k until 5 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 12: sl1, p until 6 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 13: sl1, k until 6 sts rem unwkd, turn,
Row 14: sl1, p until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn, (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 15: sl1, k until 7 sts rem, k enc, turn (6 sts rem unwkd)
Row 16: sl1, p until 6 sts rem, p enc, turn (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 17: sl1, k until 6 sts rem, k enc, turn (5 sts rem unwkd)
Row 18: sl1, p until 5 sts rem, p enc, turn (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 19: sl1, k until 5 sts rem, k enc, turn, (4 sts rem unwkd)
Row 20: sl1, p until 4 sts rem, p enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 21: sl1, k until 4 sts rem, k enc, turn, (3 sts rem unwkd)
Row 22: sl1, p until 3 sts rem, p enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 23: sl1, k until 3 sts rem, k enc, turn, (2 sts rem unwkd)
Row 24: sl1, p until 2 sts rem, p enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 25: sl1, k until 2 sts rem, k enc, turn, (1 sts rem unwkd)
Row 26: sl1, p until 1 st rem, p enc (lifted st comes from below the first st on circular needle), turn,
Row 27: sl1, k until 1 st rem, k enc (lifted st comes from below the first st on circular needle), Do not turn, because you are at the end of the short rows.
Round 6: Switch to Y2 & resume working in the round by knitting the next 16 stitches. You should now be at the beginning of each round once again. Head cont…:
Round 7: (k2tog) x 7, k2, (k2tog) x 7 (you should have 32 sts total)
Rounds 8 & 10: knit all 32 sts,
Round 9: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 sts)
Round 11: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 sts). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.

Rounds 12-31: knit all 24 sts,
Stuff the head & neck with fiber-fill. Tamper filling until it reaches your desired firmness. Don’t stuff too full and don’t stuff up to the needles or you will end up with fibers in your knitting which are difficult to remove.

Body: Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on.
Round 1: (k4, m1, k4) 3 times (27)
Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, Inc 1, k9, Inc 1, k8, Inc 1, k5 (30 sts)
Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together.

While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting. Pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row. Hold the body needle and the leg needle parallel so that the body is farthest away from you and the leg is in the front. Consolidate (see instruction) the next 9 stitches of the body with the 9 stitches of the leg. Now attach a second leg in the same manner as the first, k6 to finish off the round

Round 5, knit all 30 sts,
Round 6: k5, m1, knit to last 5, m1, k5 (32 sts)
Round 7: knit all 32 sts,
Round 8: k5, m1, k10, m1, k2, m1, k10, m1, k5 (36 sts)
Round 9: knit all 36 sts
Round 10: k6, m1, k to last 6, m1, k6 (38 sts)
Round 11: knit all 38 sts,
Round 12: k6, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1, k6 (42 sts)
Round 13: knit all 42 sts,
Round 14: (k7, m1) twice, k5, m1, k4, m1, k5, (m1, k7) twice (48 sts)
Round 15: knit all 48 sts,
Round 16: (k8, m1) twice, k6, m1, k4, m1, k6, (m1, k8) twice (54 sts)
Round 17: knit all 54 sts,
Round 18: (k9, m1) twice, k6, m1, k6, m1, k6,(m1, k9) twice (60 sts). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle.

Rounds 19-26: knit all 60 sts,
Round 27: (k2, k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice,(54 sts)
Round 28: knit all 54 sts,
Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 sts)
Round 30: k13. Now you’ll consolidate (see instructions) one leg only. k4, attach the rem leg same way, k13,
Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 sts)
Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 sts)
Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 sts), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm.
Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 sts)
Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches)
Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 sts) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Ears (make 2):
Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn,
Rows 2-3: work 2 rows of garter stitch, turn,
Row 4-5: k2, m1, knit to end,
Row 6: knit to end,
Rows 7-9: repeat rows 4-6. You should have 10 sts
Rows 10-14: knit to end, turn,
Rows 15-23: SSK, knit to end. You should now have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.Horns (make 2): With Y1, CO 4 and knit an I-cord for 24 stitches. The next step doubles your stitches. K1, m1 until you have 8 and then knit all 8 sts once around. K1, m1 until you have 16 sts and then knit all 16 sts once around. Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, slip each stitch onto the tail. Pull tight and thread it through all stitches a couple more times pulling tight each time to be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off, thread it down through the bulb on top of the horn, down through the shaft of the horn and out the other end. Use this to attach the horn to the head at top where you began working the encroachment during the head shaping. They will be spaced approximately ¾ inch apart and there will be a small space between the horns and the ears as well. Tie off any remaining ends.
Finishing: For the tail, cut three 12-24 inch strands of yarn, thread them through a couple of stitches on the back of the giraffe on the row just above where you began decreasing to finish him off. Braid and tie off so that it looks kind of like a little broom. Now embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first sock giraffe. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.

Busy, busy, busy...

2009-11-10T07:51:00.000-08:00

Well folks, It's been a while since I posted, but now that the 2009 Farmer's Market has come to a close and I've had a moment to breath, I can update everyone on what I have been up to lately.

After taking a week off to make my halloween costume, I have been a busy bee making items for the 2009 Old World Christmas Market which will be held this year at the Rio Grand Ballroom at the Gatway Mall from 11/21-11/29. Should be a good show. I've been putting finishing touches on Mini Mitten ornaments and Mini Felted Purse ornaments. But, in the midst of that, as luck would have it, inspiration takes over.

I've been working on these all summer on the side, and will have them ready for the Christmas show. The nice thing too is that I was able to send them home with my business partner and she can give them a little something special that I am unable to do. Can't wait to see the rest of the ones she has!

This little Pincusion ornament measures about 2.5 inches and is the first in my sudden fascination with designer fabric and its many uses. Each one will either be On-Of-A-Kind or very limited edition. This one happens to be the only one and I have it listed in my etsy store.

After making little pincushions I thought that Little Pear Pincushion ornaments would be really cute. Decided just to do little pears in a variety of color schemes. I have several of them to sew together tonight. Woo Hoo!

These little guys will be perfect for the fiber enthusiast. To celebrate another happy year of knitting! And I can't help but say that they are stinking cute. Each mini skein measures about 2.5 inches. The little labels are legible and real. I just love em.!

Last but not least, this is last nights little creation! I love the look of a fabric fortune cookie. This is the prototype, but the general idea will be the same. Can't wait to get a batch of these made too.

When life hands you compliments....

2009-09-24T10:54:00.000-07:00

Make lemonaid??? Not sure if that applies here but I just wanted to share something sappy with with everyone. We are way too hard on ourselves. We expect so much or our selves at times and sometimes what we expect is unreasonable. So when someone gives you a compliment, be gracious, say "Thank You" and then believe it.

It seems sometimes in the hustle and bustle of daily living, that we don't always feel appreciated or respected. So we have to relish the compliments we get, not discount them. Take every compliment that is offered as being sincere and listen to the input of others. No I don't mean to derive all your self worth from others opinions of you but instead, listen to what they have to say. They may have an unbiased point of view. So my advice for today, tomorrow, the next day, and so on? Be true to yourself. Find a way to express "you" in everything you do and when life hands you compliments.....reward yourself because "you done good!"

OOOHHH! Jogless stripes!

2009-09-21T07:03:00.001-07:00

I am quite tickled about the jogless stripes concept. It's so simple, and see how it really works. I'm sure as I practice this technique more, I will get better. But so far, so good.

I can hopefully post a link to the blog that solved this problem for me. I'm just waiting for the owner's OK.

I taught my first Sock Hippo class this past Friday. It went pretty good. I have to refine my teaching technique a bit but overall I am pleased with the result. Second session is Friday and I'll have a better opportunity to see how I should refine my process. I had fun though.

Farmer's Market this year has been a little slower than usual, but still fun. It keeps me busy. After the market on Saturday, I cleaned off the back patio so that my dad and I could Dye cotton Sunday.

All I can say is WOW! He tye dyed two shirts, and I dyed lots of cotton yarn. I am eager to see how it turnes out. The process for dying cotton is much more involved and takes a longer time period than the wool. Its no wonder there is a shortage of hand dyed cottons. Perhaps when I have more time I can go into detail but for now, lets just say I feel accomplished and will post pics as soon as I have them.

Thank you all again for reading the ramblings of a madwoman and stay tuned....

It's Monday!!!! Woo Hoo!!!

2009-09-14T06:47:00.000-07:00

Actually I'm not that excited about Monday. Not because I don't like my day job, but that I can't stay home and work on all the exciting ideas I have spinning around in my head right now. :( I'm sure we can all feel that pain.

It's OK though. I had a productive weekend and whipped out a few more oven mitts for the market and my Etsy store. (Someday soon I may be able to update my website.) So here they are. I had a lot of fun making them and actually have several more to make. I do feel like I'm living in a crafters pig sty though. Everywhere I look there are fabric and yarn scraps, and I clean it up regularly but I make a mess just as soon as I do it. I bet we can all feel that pain too! I am eager to finish the oven mitts because then the supplies can be put away and there will be new mess to deal with, LOL.

The first stocking is almost done. I'm currently knitting the solid band and after playing with graphpaper and names, decided against knitting the names. I just don't have enough stitches to knit them in to look good. I did however come up with an idea to use ribbon to embroider them in. That will be fun. I really do wish I could figure out how to make a frayed ribbon so that there is some texture as well to the names. I think that could be fun as well. Thought about cutting 1 inch strips, carefully putting a very thin line of fray check down the middle and trowing them into the washer several times to get the fray. I could trim it up afterward so that it looks nice then using that as the ribbon. But we will see as we get to that point. Thank you to all my readers who read on my ramblings.... Will post tomorrow hopefully about what I come up with tonight after work.

Today's Journey

2009-09-10T06:58:00.001-07:00

A couple weeks ago I recieved a custom order request for three of my "non traditional" Fair Isle Christmas stockings with the names of each family member. After dyeing and drying the yarn, I finally began the knitting. I originally thought it would take two weeks per stocking, but after working the toe and the first pattern repeat I realize it will be done much quicker. Woo Hoo!!!

The next item of business....How do I add the names so that it doesn't interfere with the patterning. I came up with three ideas. 1. knit the names vertically along the back edge of the stocking on blocks of color where the patterning isn't worked anyway. Problem with this idea, I'd have to put it on both sides of the stocking because I don't know how they will be hung. 2. Use fabric applique to stitch each individual letter into place vertically down the front side. Problem with this idea is again, would have to do them on both sides. And the fabric would have to be just right. Perhaps felt? Haven't totally discounted this idea yet. 3. Just replace one of the pattern repeats with the name fo the family member. This seems like a winner but since I've begun composing this blog entry I have actually worked out some of the details and may still need to decide. Any ideas would be fab and much appreciated.

As for my little doggie that I posted earlier this week, I think I'm going to put little jewels or the like around the collar. When I pinned the collar in place, there were little holes left from the fabric adhesive. And since the pin baubles actually looked kind of cute, I think that will add just the right amount of something special. As if the little cutie isn't already really stinkin' cute!!!

I will keep you updated on my progress.

2009-09-08T08:45:00.001-07:00

Mybootee Sock Monkee 2.0 has inspired me to create another little critter which will remain unnamed for the time being. I believe this "secret" project will be fantastic, but I find it hard sometimes to express what's in my head with physical mediums. I will however share my latest stop in this continual journey.

After making about 100 different foldable fans, I got to thinking, "What else can I make using these great fabrics?" So I started making oven mitts. I know, kinda cheesy, but it takes a special kind of person to appreciate a unique oven mitt. And I'm sure everyone reading this knows, there are many special kinds of people in this world, who am I to decide that the ones who like unique oven mitts are any less special than those who don't. Here's my fave. Its sold already, but I will be working on a couple more that are very similar and perhaps sets of potholders and oven mitts of my more popular designs.

There is something appealing about green and brown together. I'm also trying to find a way to couple browns with other colors. They just seem eye catching to me.

Next in my journey... This little guy. He is completely hand stitched because he measures H=3.5 in, W=5 in, L=5.5 in. I found a pattern for a larger version of this little dog, and scaled it down. I immediately thought he'd make a cute pincushion. We shall see what becomes of him.

When it rains it pours cont......

2009-07-28T12:19:00.000-07:00

Well everyone, I have had so much fun with this new project, and because I will be dying yarn for the next two weeks and unable to do much else, I have just been making fans galore! I picked out a bunch of new fabrics and have decided that no two will be exactly alike. I even made sure to get some purple ones made per a loyal readers request. I hope you like them.

When it rains it pours.....

2009-07-22T09:46:00.000-07:00

I want to encourage everyone to go with the flow when inspiration hits. You may have an idea and you may think it's silly or that you don't have the means. But take it from me inspiration comes from the strangest places. When I think of something I want to accomplish or a project that I'd like to work on, I immerse myself in it. I try different things, I even go to the hardware store and browse the aisles until something jumps out at me. So here is my latest development. A fan that collapses to fit in my pocket or my purse. And just in time because it is one hot tamale out there!

2009-07-15T07:47:00.001-07:00

Hello everyone,

After starting the Farmer's market and having so many rainy days this summer, the creative juices are finally flowing. This years Christmas ornaments will be.....

2009-05-16T16:27:00.000-07:00

Well its official! Not only have we been blogging for one year, but we will be participating in the 2009 Salt Lake City Art and Craft Market. Woo Hoo! We are busying ourself with preparation for this event with some new additions as well as some of our old faves. We hope to see our supporters out this year like in years past and can't wait to chat with you all this year to see what you've been up too. For those of you who are not from around here, we look forward to hearing more of your comments and input as well as welcome your your support. Lets all have another year of good knitting shall we?

2009-03-10T07:06:00.001-07:00

Hello everyone,

It's been a little while since I posted last. And this time I am sad to report that I don't have any pics to share just yet. But I had to post an update. Its been too long.

So after dying a yarn order for Unwind the past two weeks, and backing up my WD Passport to DVD's before it crashes, I finally feel like I'm getting organized. With the Farmer's Market applications due the first of April, I feel like I have so much to do right now. I have to finish my tomato pincushions, get more photos of my goods for the application, and get more things knitted. Oh but wait, its really important that I have fun with this too. Thought I was going to be able to attend the Annual Sock Knitting Machine Conference in Tacoma Washington this year, but will have to postpone the trip till a little later this summer. Must go though, because I already mentioned it to my daughter and she will "just die" if we can't go. With the Farmer's market fees due in June, I just won't be able to save enough money. So cross your fingers for me because I really need a vacation. Sigh.

I have been focusing some attention this year into my photography. Here is one of two images that I am fairly proud of. Believe it or not there is indeed a pink fire hydrant in Salt Lake City. (There is also a backyard fence made of skis but that is for another time.)

Here is my next image. I have recently discovered a thing called "depth of field" and even though I have taken photography classes in the past, this concept has eluded me until now. So aperature, F-stop, what? That's kind of what I said. Put simply, I can now have the item of focus sharp while everything else is softer and somewhat out of focus. This gives my photography more depth and no more using photoshop to achieve this. Woo Hoo! I feel like I have finally taken some very simple yet interesting shots this year and I think I'm on my way to calendar worthy images. If nothing else I will have some cute postcards this year.

Now that I have rambled on, I feel like I can focus again and I appreciate everyone reading this and tolerating the ramblings. I will post some of my pics soon so stay tuned.....

2009-01-28T06:17:00.000-08:00

So this is a group effort by home crafters all over the country to raise awareness of the new lead laws going into affect February 10, 2009.

Imagine if you will, the local farmer's market where you can find fresh locally grown fruit, regional flavors and oh yeah, pick up that gift for the baby shower you have later on. Oh wait, you can't buy a shower gift anymore at the farmer's market because, the new lead laws have made unique, hand crafted childrens items next to extinct. You'll just have to go to Walmart or Toys R Us to get a mass produced plastic toy. But wait weren't those the toys that had dangerous lead levels in them to begin with? What now?

OK this may be an exaggeration, but the threat to hand made children's items is real. The new lead laws are written in such a way that it is almost impossible to decipher exactly what group of items the legislators are targeting. The law encompases, ALL children's items. This includes toys, clothes, & anything designed to be used PRIMARILY by children 12 and under. Also because there are several different compliance issues that need to be met under the new law, it is almost impossible to decide where one issue applies and where others do not. To make matters worse, we have been receiving inconsistent information regarding our concerns.

I'm sure the Consumer Product Safety Commission had certain targets in mind when working with legislators to develop this law, but clearly those ideas were not accurately translated into the actual law.

Many of us have argued grammar, and other symantics, but ideally, some consistent answers to what we can and can't do is needed. If you love hand made, please support our cause. Contact your local government officials. Donate your legal expertise if you have it. We will appreciate any help that you might be willing to offer. Many of us can work with the new laws the way they are but that will mean a scarcity of children's goods. Unfortunately for some this will mean the end of what they do and what they love.

Please help us Save Handmade!

2009-01-20T10:06:00.000-08:00

OK folks, I finally did it. I finished my Sock Froggee Pattern. You can click the link to the right for a PDF version. Good Luck, and please, please contact me if you have any questions or need clarification.

I do recommend that only advanced knitters attempt this pattern, or if you have completed one of my other patterns then you should be ok.

New Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act

2009-01-14T16:36:00.000-08:00

Hello, everyone, I am asking you all to take a moment to support my cause. The new Consumer Protection Improvement Act which will go into effect on 2/10/09 could be problematic for crafters like myself. It basically will require any and all toy and children's clothes manufacturers to have certification that our products do not contain hazardous amounts of lead or other harmful items. For those of us who spend a lot of time trying to create something that is not mass produced and safe for our own children, this could lead to some major problems.

I am still fairly new to my own business, but I do feel that this is a hit for small business everywhere. There are several other small yet more established businesses which will undoubtedly be able to deal with the new laws, however, the increased cost will likely drive prices up. For many it is a lively hood. There is a lot of media on this situation and I have been reasearching what I can do to help. From everything Ive seen, the large toy companies will not be seriously affected by this but for us smaller entities, we cannot afford the cost for testing and will have to remove our items for public sale. It also could mean that charity knitting for children will also be illegal.

Ive read the letter with the proposed changes and I feel that they are reasonable and would encompass what I do so I voted in agreement with the idea. As the Act is worded now, there is no exclusion for items that have already been tested an found in compliance and no exclusion for items that scientifically have no lead. I am asking those of you who are willing to vote your support. If our cause makes it to the top ten (out of hundreds I'm sure) then we will have the opportunity as soon as possible to allow crafters like myself to continue doing what we love. You may not have kids, but if you can support this cause it would mean a great deal to me as well as many others. Thank you for taking a moment to read what I have to say and I hope you will cast your vote.

Hopefully I didn't ramble, I am a little concerned about this because half of our inventory is for children under 12.

Bobbi Padgett

Oh Wow.

2009-01-12T06:49:00.000-08:00

2008 taxes are done and now I have a moment to think. That might not be a good thing. It occurred to me this weekend that I only have 6 month until the 2009 Salt Lake City Art And Craft Market, and I don't think I will be able to do all that I want to do. I have many things that I need to focus on this year since it is now the third year that we will (hopefully) be participating. So I decided to do something fun for myself.
Here it is. I spent all weekend playing with my homemade drop spindle and learning how to spin. I definately still need some work but overall, I feel accomplished and I think I can now prepare for the market season with a new outlook. This next year I would like to add crochet sock animal kits, and handpainted rovings. We shall see how it goes.

The cutest thing ever!

2008-12-29T06:16:00.000-08:00

OK folks, I just had to share. Isn't this just the cutest thing you've ever seen? I took this the day I was sitting in my parlor as the window guys were completing the installation of the new windows. Just a side note, they are fabulous! The windows for being so clean, and the window guys for NOT taking their time. We had minimal spells cold in the house and minimal messes. Overall, I am pleased by a job well done.

Just started my best friends hooded scarf today. I figured I should get it done or it would be another year and another winter gone by where she has a cold head. I dyed the yarn last winter and just have been too busy to make it. Well Jessie, now its a priority. You shall have it within two weeks.

I will have progress photos on my Ravelry and will post the finished pics here when its done.

Also on the agenda, a coworker wants Mosey's for her 15 year old. And yes she wants them to be lime green. Woo hoo! So will be dying more in this color for those. I also decided that this color would be perfect for some Mybootee Sock Froggees. So I'll also be working through the pattern once more to put on the finishing touches, and then will be able to post so keep an eye out for that.

Updated at last

2008-12-27T09:26:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone. I finally have been forced to sit down and stop knitting. I know, I know I had to stop knitting. Working on the Psych unit as a unit clerk and having not only general clerical duties but also having to deal with all the other services in the hospital and being the general "go to girl" puts a lot of pressure on me for 8 continuous hours. Knitting is the only release I have so I knit all the time. It has paid off though. Once the creative juices get flowing there is no stopping me. As I sit here in the living room with the new windows getting installed and my room (and knitting stuff) in the shambles, I decided I better update everyone as to what has had me so busy this holiday season.

First I participated this year in the Old World Christmas Market in Downtown Salt Lake City. It was a great experience for me and I can't wait till next year. Now I have a feel for what people are looking for at this venue and will be working busily on creating a better presentation for my wares.

Once this was done, I focused my attention onto my christmas gifts.

My dad loved his special gift. Even though he bought one online after I specifically told him not to because, Santa might just bring him what he asked for. I decided that he needed night cap to go with his night shirt just for the fun of having one. I think this might have to be next years Christmas card.

My 12 year old loved her Moseys I made one pair in lime green and one pair in brown and she has been wearing them around the house and prancing about in her new boots too! This year was a good year for giving what would be appreciated. Yeah Me!

2008-11-06T07:26:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone! I wanted to post info about my latest project. I decided that I wanted to finishe some projects that have been halfway done all summer. Here is the first one.

This scarf was made from some different colored silks I had sitting around and left over from the 2008 Farmer's Market. I was very suprised at how nice it turned out and how soft.

This guy has been sitting around all summer with not head or arms and I finally got him done Monday Night. I tried something new here and attached the arms and ears using my stitch consolidation method. I think it worked pretty well and will be trying it again in the future. I also feel perhaps another animal coming on soon.

Before getting too engrossed in another animal kit though, I have to work through this pattern a few more times. It has been tested and it seemed to work well, but I have a few things I'd like to rework before publishing him. He's been sitting around all summer with all but a hand and two feet, and I just had a ball making them last night.

Just in time for the Holidays!

2008-11-06T07:12:00.000-08:00

Well folks, it's been a little while since I have posted, but I wanted to make sure I kept people informed of where I'll be for the holiday season.

November 14-15:
St. Ambrose Holiday Boutique
2315 Redondo Avenue (approx. 1995 South)
Saturday 10-7 & Sunday 8-3

November 28-December 6:
http://oldworldchristmasmarket.net/default.aspx
Hours: 11am – 7pm, Closed Sunday
Special Holiday Gallery Stroll Hours 11am- 9pm - Friday, December 5th

I hope to see everyone there.

2008-09-29T08:49:00.000-07:00

3 weeks left of the Salt Lake Farmer's Market. If you haven't yet had a chance to get there and do some Christmas shopping, now's the time to do it. If the weather gets nasty, most vendors won't participate so don't waste any time. There's a lot of unique and affordable stuff and with the Holidays just around the corner, orders are coming in fast.

For the fans of my patterns, I wanted to provide some great news! I will be starting to convert many of them into crochet patterns as well. So keep checking for those updates to come in the next several months.

Also, I love to hear your suggestions so keep em coming!

Thank you
Bobbi

2008-09-18T06:18:00.000-07:00

Well folks, It's been a little while since I have been able to blog about my adventures. I have been super busy with the Salt Lake Art and Craft Market and filling orders, I have hardly had any time to breath. Now as the Market enters its final 4 weeks, things are starting to settle down a little. I just wanted to share that I appreciate all the local support we have received this year as well as our non local support.

I have been working on a side project which I have finally finished it. I will post pictures soon.

We will be adding many new products to our website this winter so please check back to see if something strikes your fancy.

Thanks again for all the support!

Bobbi

ALS Benefit

2008-08-16T13:24:00.001-07:00

Hello everyone,

I will be donating two Mybootee Sock Monkee 2.0 kits to The Yarn Giveaway hosted by Working Mom Knits to help her raise money for ALS.

For every $5.00 you donate, you get one entry into the contest to win yarn while helping to support a good cause.

Let's help the Martha Dorsche Family in their fight against ALS. Be sure to send a message to mommyofdennis@yahoo.com to be entered in the drawing.

So much to do, So little time.

2008-07-26T15:14:00.000-07:00

Well folks, it seems like I need to really be keeping tabs on my progress for those you eagerly awaiting patterns. Each new animal I make leads me to the next. So please bear with me I will make sure to share these fun patterns with. So heres what's on the agenda and the timetable....

SLC farmer's market every Saturday from 8-1
August 3: Make giraffe preorder, make Rainbow Mini Monkee also for preorder. Ship froggee kits for testing phase. Update and publish the Basic Toe Up Sock Pattern, Dye yarn.
August 10: Dye yarn,
August 11: Stay at work late
August 17: Dye yarn
August 22: 2 hour toe up sock class at Unwind with 1-2 hour Q&A aftewards. Publish tested froggee pattern.
August 24: Dye yarn
August 26: Stay at work late again

Please check back regularly. Feel free to contact me. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have questions or need more help with any of my patterns. Happy knitting and I'll keep you all posted.

Thank You
Bobbi

2008-07-21T06:41:00.000-07:00

Heres my new little guy. What a ham, don't you think? We had a nice little photo session last evening and just could not decide on one pose.

Keep posted, the pattern will be available for testing very soon!

Completed Test Giraffes

2008-07-04T09:01:00.000-07:00

Here he is! The first of the test giraffes, submitted by Evelyn. He is so cute, I just want to hold him. Thanks again Evelyn!

Here's #2 submitted by Molly! Thanks so much.

#3 & #4 Submitted by Katherine. Great variation on the ears and horns. Thank you

New pattern coming soon!

2008-06-18T08:27:00.000-07:00

Hello all!

Well, it's official, we never left the Farmer's Market Last year. Our first day back was just what I needed and it was a screaming success! After setting up our booth Anna said to me, "It's like we never left." I had no idea how much like that it was. About 1/2 hour after setting up or booth we got busy. We stayed busy, and at noon when the sun was at its highest, we stopped to breath. Overall, we were very pleased with the turnout and can't wait till this Saturday. If you live near by, you should definately attend the market. It's a great atmosphere and very inviting.

I have just completed my newest creation and I must just say....I love him. The pattern will be available hopefully within the next couple weeks. I have to make a few to be sure the pattern reads well. But as soon as I am satisfied with it, I'll share it with the world. Soon to follow will be a Hippo pattern. So stay tuned.....

Killing Two Birds With One Stone

2008-06-02T07:31:00.000-07:00

Well, I finally did it. I completed two new skills all in the same weekend. First I tried out a new dying technique and second, I made my first pair of socks on my Beautiful Legare 47 sock knitter. Woo Hoo!!!

As for the technique, I knitted two panels, 60 stitches wide and 155 rows long on my flat bed knitting machine. I then dyed them side by side with the same pattern so that I would have two of the same socks. After they dried, I unravelled them and wound them into center pull balls with my wool winder and was ready to go!

Not bad for my first pair of socks on the circular knitting machine. Since I have never worked from a pattern, I am pretty proud of myself. They are so warm and cozy. The only thing is I knitted what I thought to be the right amount of rows for the foot of the first sock and ended up with way too much foot length. Figured that I would unravel and knit the toe by hand. I should have done the same thing with the other sock because I knitted a smaller gauge than the machine did so my socks were about half an inch different in size.

After all is said and done I learned a couple things from this experience. One of those things being that I should knit about 5 rows, after making the cuff of the sock before I start the heel for a better fit. the second thing is that I think I like the cuff to be longer so I will knit more rows for that and put some spandex in them at the top fof the cuff.

Also, does anyone know that foot model? She is great! ;)

Halelujah!.... Halelujah, halelujah!

2008-05-28T06:17:00.000-07:00

Isn't this the most beautiful cinnamon roll you have ever seen? (Sigh)Another day at the daily grind. One more day to go this week, and I can get back to creating. The one thing that helps me get my day off to a good start is this beautiful cinnamon roll. I am also soothed by thoughts of the silk I dyed two weeks ago and how smooth it feels against my cheek. I can't wait to get it all ready for the market three weeks from now. I decided I would make a scarf for my daughter who happens to be enthralled by lime green and orange. So I have orange silk drying on the patio and I am using the lime green to start. Will post a pic as soon as its done. I think she will like it, she is always stealing mine and is like so many other females, she loves soft things and is just as compelled to put them up against her cheek to slip away in to euphoria for a few moments to enjoy it. Like mother, like daughter...

Indiana Jones and the......(what was the rest?)

2008-05-25T16:21:00.000-07:00

Ok folks! Just got home from seeing Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull. It was great. I laughed....I cried.... No actually I didn't cry but I did enjoy myself and it will be a welcome edition to the special edition DVD set that is sure to hit stores this Christmas. And am I the only one who has a hard time saying the name of this movie?

I don't want to spoil it for anyone so I won't go into details, but Crystal Skull had all of the typical Indie traits. A hat issue, a snake issue, sticky situations, and plenty of bad guys. There was also a bit more humor than we have come to expect from the earlier film, but it wasn't overly cheesy. While watching the first three films on the Sci-Fi channel last weekend I did notice how cheesy the fights were. Particularly in Raiders of the Lost Ark when Indie is fighting the burly German while Marion is stuck in the cockpit. And watching the little spin that Indie does each time the German thug hits him I just couldn't help but laugh hystarically. You will be pleased to know that the fight scenes in this last installment aren't quite as bad. Over all I would recommend it.

After seeing this film though, I can't help but wonder is Shia Lebeof going to be the next Indie, or is this it? And as a side note. I have to say that I think he's the next John Cusack. It will be interesting to see the progression of his career. I guess every generation has to have a geeky cutie right?

It's Official!!!!

2008-05-22T06:29:00.000-07:00

OK everyone! It's Official! We are going to be in the 2008 Salt Lake City Farmer's Market/Art and Craft Market. The dates run Saturdays from June 14th through October 18th. If anyone finds themselves in Salt Lake City during the summer, this is a wonderful activity. It's close to downtown, and you can pick up fresh produce, crafts, as well as other unique souvenirs.

Hope to see you there!
Bobbi

Introducing the newest member of the Mybootee family!

2008-05-18T22:07:00.000-07:00

Sock Turtle Pattern © 2008 Mybootee Boutique
Finished measurements are approximately 5.5 inches wide x 5.5 inches long
Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Materials: One set US Size 2 dp knitting needles, 1 12 inch Addi Turbo needle (or other circular needle) DK Yarn 1 35 yards (Y1)(I use self striping), DK Yarn 2 30 yards (Y2)(I use cream colored), 1 tapestry needle, Black DMC Floss, Polyester fiber-fill

Abbreviations:
st=stitch, k=knit, p=perl, k enc=knit encroachment, p enc=perl encroachment,k2tog=knit 2 together p2tog=perl 2 together

Technique Instructions;
Purl encroachment: sl1 stich from the left needle to the right needle, lift the stitch below the next stitch onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped stitch back onto the left needle and purl the two together.
Knit encroachment: sl1 stich from the left needle to the right needle, lift the stitch below the next stitch onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped stitch back onto the left needle and knit the two together.
Consolidate stitches : Divide stitches evenly onto two needles. Hold these in your left hand with the working yarn on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are on the front needle and the stitches just worked are on the back needle.) You will now slip all stitches onto a third needle in your right hand beginning with the stitch on the back needle and alternating with the stitchs on the front needle. All stitches are now on the needle in your right hand.
*For detailed images on techniques and instructions click here

Belly:

Row 1: With Y2,CO 60, join ends and begin knitting in the round. Row 2: knit, Row 3: (k2, k2tog, k2) 10 times (50 stitches remain), Row 4: knit, Row 5: (k1, k2tog, k2) 10 times (40 stitches remain), Row 6: knit, Row 7: (k1, k2tog, k1) 10 times (30 stitches remain) Row 8: knit, Row 9: (k1, k2tog, k2) 6 times (24 stitches remain) Row 10: knit, Row 11: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times (18 stitches remain), Row 12: knit, Row 13: (k1, k2tog) 6 times, (12 stitches remain) Row 14: (k2tog) 6 times, k1 (7 stitches remain). Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and using a tapestry needle, thread it through all the stitches removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Pull tight and tie off on the purl side of the work. Don’t worry if it does not lay flat. That will resolve with this next step.

To set up for attaching the limbs, head, & tail, turn your work around and begin working with the cast on edge. Hold the piece in your hand with the knit side facing you. Tie the new working yarn to the tail left from the cast on. Use your Addi turbo needle and the outside loop of each cast on stitch to pick up 59 stitches around the edge. Pick up one additional stitch using any loop of the space remaining to total 60 stitches.
Round 1: knit, Round 2: Use the DP needles to make the next pieces and you will be adding them on as you complete this row, so set this aside for now.

Tail

Row 1: Using Y1 and the Provisional Cast On Technique, CO 6 stitches, turn, Row 2: p6 turn, Row 3: sl1, k4, turn, Row 4: sl1, p3, turn, Row 5: sl2, k2, turn, Row 6: sl1, p1, p enc, turn, Row 7: sl1, k2, k enc, turn, Row 8: sl1, p4, do not p enc, turn, Row 9: sl1, k5, do not knit enc, do not turn. (Begin knitting in the round, you may need to tug on the tail of yarn that remains from the cast on, because it will loosen up as you work. I like to weave mine in and out of the next few rows so that I can use it later on) Pick up 6 stitches along the cast on edge. Round 1-4: knit. k3 in preparation for the next step. Consolidate stitches (see technique instructions). P2tog, for entire row and turn as if you were going to work another row. You should finish with 6 stitches and you are now ready to attach it to the body. Do not remove it from the needle.

Pick up the belly section holding it with the knitted side facing you as if you were going to resume knitting. In fact, you will be, but don’t do it yet. Now hold the tail in front of the belly section and align both needles parallel to each other as you did before and consolidate stitches again. Cut Y1 leaving enough to weave in loose ends or tie off. (I like to tie off all the ends before finishing the body section all at once but you may tie them off as you go. This is where I use the yarn tail that I wove into the piece earlier.) Round 2 (belly): k1 with Y2 and set aside for now to complete the first leg.

Legs (make 2 for now)

* Row 1: Using Y1 and the Provisional Cast On Technique, CO 12, turn, Row 1: 12, turn, Row 2: (begin short rows) sl1, k10, turn, Row 3: sl1, p9, turn, Row 4: sl1, k8, turn, Row 5: sl1, p7, turn, Row 6: sl1, k6, turn, Row 7: sl1, p5, p enc, turn, Row 8: sl1, k6, k enc, turn, Row 9: sl1, p7, p enc, turn, Row 10: sl1, k8, k enc, turn, Row 11: sl1, p10, do not p enc, turn, Row 12: sl1, k11,do not k enc, do not turn, . (Begin knitting in the round, you may need to tug on the tail of yarn that remains from the cast on, because it will loosen up as you work. I like to weave mine in and out of the next few rows so that I can use it later on) Pick up 12 stitches along the cast on edge. Round 1-5: knit, Round 6: (k2, k2tog, k2) 4 times (20 stitches), Round 7: knit, Round 8: (k1, k2tog, k2) 4 times (16 stitches), Row 24: knit, Row 25: (k1, k2tog, k1) 4 times, (12 stiches) Row 26: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches your desired firmness,Consolidate stitches (see technique instructions). P2tog, for entire row and turn as if you were going to work another row. You should finish with 6 stitches and you are now ready to attach it to the body. Do not remove it from the needle. Pick up the belly section holding it with the knitted side facing you as if you were going to resume knitting. In fact, you will be, but don’t do it yet. Now hold the tail in front of the belly section and align both needles parallel to each other as you did before and consolidate stitches again. Cut Y1 leaving enough to weave in loose ends or tie off. (I like to tie off all the ends before finishing the body section all at once but you may tie them off as you go. This is where I use the yarn tail that I wove into the piece earlier.) * Round 2 (belly): k10 with Y2 and set aside for now to complete the 2nd leg. Leg 2: Repeat from * to * Round 2 (belly): k1 with Y2 and set aside for now to complete the head.

Head:

Using Y1 and the Provisional Cast On Technique, CO 16, turn, Row 1: p16, turn, Row 2: (begin short rows) sl1, k14, turn, Row 3: sl1, p13, turn, Row 4: sl1, k12, turn, Row 5: sl1, p11, turn, Row 6: sl1, k10, turn, Row 7: sl1, p9, turn, Row 8: sl1, k8, turn, Row 9: sl1, p7, p enc, turn, Row 10: sl1, k8, k enc, turn, Row 11: sl1, p9, p enc, turn, Row 12: sl1, k10, k enc, turn, Row 13: sl1, p11, p enc, turn, Row 14: sl1, k12, k enc, turn, Row 15: sl1, p14, do not p enc, turn, Row 16: sl1, k15, do not k enc, do not turn, Row 17-20: . (Begin knitting in the round, you may need to tug on the tail of yarn that remains from the cast on, because it will loosen up as you work. I like to weave mine in and out of the next few rows so that I can use it later on) pick up 16 stitches along the cast on edge, Round 1-5: knit, Round 6:(k1, k2tog, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches left) Round 7: knit, Round 8: k1 (k2tog, k1) 4 times, k15, (24 stitches left) Roound 9: knit, Round 10: (k4, k2tog) 4 times, (20 stitches left), Round 11: knit, Round 12: (k2tog, k3) 4 times, (16 stitches left) Round 13: knit, Round 14: (k2tog, k2) 4 times, you should now have 12 stitches. k4, Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches your desired firmness, consolidate stitches. P2tog, for entire row and turn as if you were going to work another row. Pick up the belly section holding it with the knitted side facing you as if you were going to resume knitting as you did for the tail. Now hold the leg in front of the belly section and align both needles parallel to each other as before and consolidate stitches again. Cut Y1 leaving enough to weave in loose ends or tie off. (I like to tie off all the ends before finishing the body section all at once but you may tie them off as you go. This is where I use the yarn tail that I wove into the piece earlier.) * Round 2 (belly): k1 with Y2 and set aside for now to complete the 3rd leg.

Legs (make 2)

* Row 1: Using Y1 and the Provisional Cast On Technique, CO 12, turn, Row 1: 12, turn, Row 2: (begin short rows) sl1, k10, turn, Row 3: sl1, p9, turn, Row 4: sl1, k8, turn, Row 5: sl1, p7, turn, Row 6: sl1, k6, turn, Row 7: sl1, p5, p enc, turn, Row 8: sl1, k6, k enc, turn, Row 9: sl1, p7, p enc, turn, Row 10: sl1, k8, k enc, turn, Row 11: sl1, p10, do not p enc, turn, Row 12: sl1, k11,do not k enc, do not turn, . (Begin knitting in the round, you may need to tug on the tail of yarn that remains from the cast on, because it will loosen up as you work. I like to weave mine in and out of the next few rows so that I can use it later on) Pick up 12 stitches along the cast on edge. Round 1-5: knit, Round 6: (k2, k2tog, k2) 4 times (20 stitches), Round 7: knit, Round 8: (k1, k2tog, k2) 4 times (16 stitches), Row 24: knit, Row 25: (k1, k2tog, k1) 4 times, (12 stiches) Row 26: knit. Stuff with fiber-fill until it reaches your desired firmness, consolidate stitches. P2tog, for entire row and turn as if you were going to work another row. Pick up the belly section holding it with the knitted side facing you as if you were going to resume knitting as you did for the tail. Now hold the leg in front of the belly section and align both needles parallel to each other as before and consolidate stitches again. Cut Y1 leaving enough to weave in loose ends or tie off. (I like to tie off all the ends before finishing the body section all at once but you may tie them off as you go. This is where I use the yarn tail that I wove into the piece earlier.)* Round 2 (belly): knit with Y2 until only 7 stitches remain unworked and set aside for now to complete the 4th leg. Leg 2: Repeat from * to * Round 2 (belly): k4 with Y2 until you reach the midway point of the tail and you are now ready to complete the body by working rounds.

Body:

Round 3-4: purl, Round 5-14: k60 Round 15: (k4, k2tog, k4) 6 times (54 stitches) Round 16: knit, Round 17: (k3, k2tog, k4) 6 times (48 stitches) Round 18: knit Round 19: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times (42 stitches) Round 20: knit Round 21: (k3, k2tog, k2) 6 times (36 stitches) Round 22: knit Round 23: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times (30 stitches). Take a moment to stuff the bottom half of the body but don’t stuff too full. You will be stuffing more before you close the top. Round 24: knit Round 25: (k2, k2tog, k1) 6 times (24 stitches) Round 26: knit Round 27: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times (18 stitches) Round 28: knit Round 29: (k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches). Round 30: knit. Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining stitches removing them from the knitting needles as you go. Do not pull tight. Finish stuffing with fiber-fill until your desired firmness, pull tight and tie off.

Last but not least, embroider facial features on your little guy and Ta Da! You now have an authentic Mybootee Sock Turtle. Don't forget to email me your images so we can share them with everyone!

mybb@comcast.net

Welcome!

2008-05-15T08:17:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Mybootee Knits. We have created this blog in the hopes that we can bring all of the Mybootee Creations together in one place for all to see. Post your comments! Post your tips! And send us your pictures so that we may share with everyone. At Mybootee Boutique we will never charge you for a pattern or expect you to join a mailing list. We do this because we know that every knitter is unique and therefore, everything we knit, even if its from the same pattern can have a look all its own. We look forward to seeing your creations!
Thank You
Bobbi