Pattern Testers Requested.

Hello everyone, here it is. The first version of the Sock Giraffe I promised a couple weeks ago.
Keep in mind that this pattern has only been tested by me so far. If you are feeling adventurous and are ready to tackle some advanced knitting techniques, please feel free to try it. If you have questions or need clarification, please email me. I usually respond same day. Also don't forget to share your pictures. mybb@comcast.net

Thank you.


Sock Giraffe Pattern
Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn
Yarn 2 (Y2) Self Striping DK weight yarn
1 set Size #2 DP needles
1 12 inch Size #2 Addi Turbo Needle
2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string
Polyester Fiber-fill

Stitch Instructions:
Video Demo for Turkish Cast On.
Stitch Consolidation:
Front Consolidation: Hold these parallel in your left hand with the working yarn on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are on the front needle and the stitches just worked are on the back needle.) Slip all stitches onto a third needle in your right hand beginning with the stitch on the back needle and alternating with the stitches on the front needle. Slip every other stitch until all stitches are on the needle in your right hand.
Back Consolidation: Hold these parallel in your left hand with the working yarn on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are on the front needle and the stitches just worked are on the back needle.) Slip all stitches onto a third needle in your right hand beginning with the stitch on the front needle and alternating with the stitches on the back needle. Slip every other stitch until all stitches are on the needle in your right hand.
PSSO: pass slipped stitch over
KRL: (Knit Right Loop ) insert right needle into right loop of stitch just below next stitch; place it onto left needle and knit it; then work the pattern as instructed. Click Here for Video (scroll down the page to find the video)
KLL: (Knit Left Loop ) insert left needle into loop of stitch just below stitch just worked; and knit it: then resume working the pattern Click Here for Video (scroll down the page to find the video)
Knit enc: sl1 stich from the left needle to the right needle, lift the stitch below the next stitch onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped stitch back onto the left needle and knit the two together.
Purl enc: sl1 stich from the left needle to the right needle, lift the stitch below the next stitch onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped stitch back onto the left needle and purl the two together.

*Weave in loose ends as you go before stuffing with fiber-fill.

Arms (make 2): *With Y1 CO 24 stitches. Round 1: knit, join ends and continue to knit in the round. Round 2: (k4, inc 1, k4) 3 times. (27 stitches) Round 3: knit, Round 4: (k4, inc 1, k5) 3 times, (30 stitches) Round 5: knit Round 6: purl Round 7: knit Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches), Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches) Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off on the purl side of your work. Do not stuff yet. Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the knit side and begin working with the cast on edge. Tie the new working yarn Y2 to the tail left from the cast on. Using the outside loop of each cast on stitch to pick up 24 stitches around the edge. Round 1: knit, Round 2: (k3, k2tog, k3) 3 times (21 stitches) Round 3: knit Round 4: (k2, k2tog, k3) 3 times (18 stitches) Rounds 5-24: knit (If you prefer not to count rows, you can just k360). Stuff with fiber-fill and close the arms using the Back Consolidation method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have all stitches on one needle, turn and p2tog across, leaving you with 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches) and label this arm #1 using a piece of tape. You’ll weave in loose ends once the arm is attached. For Arm #2 repeat from * to * turn and k2tog, again leaving you with 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches) and label. Transfer both arms to your circular needle with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be important when you attach them to the body.

Head: With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast On Method, CO 16 (your first row should have been all purled stitches rather than knitted stitches as in the video you've seen) Row 1: sl1, k14, (1 st remains unworked) turn, Row 2: sl1, p13, (1 st remains unworked) turn, Row 3: sl1, k12, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 4: sl1, p11, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 5: sl1, k10, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 6: sl1, p9,(3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 7: sl1, k8, (4 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 8: sl1, p7, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 9: sl1, k8, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 10: sl1, p9, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 11: sl1, k10, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 12: sl1, p11, p enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 13: sl1, k12, k enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn Row 16: sl1, p14, (you will not p enc here, because you should be at the end of the row) turn, Row 17: sl1, knit across. You should still have a total of 16 stitches and you will now start knitting in the round. Slide your circular needle into place and just continue knitting all stitches. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. Now is a good time to start using your DP needles if you prefer can use two circulars. Once you knit the stitches along the cast on edge, move the yarn tail to the front of your work. It will mark the beginning of each round. Rounds 1-5: knit, cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y1 onto and begin short rows.

Snout: Row 1: (KRL, k1) 8 times, (KLL, k1) 8 times (32 stitches), (begin working short rows) turn, Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st remains unworked) turn, Row 3: sl1, k29, (1 st remains unworked) turn Row 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts remain unworked) turn Row 5: sl1, k27, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 6: sl1, p26, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 7: sl1, k25, (3 sts remain unworked) turn Row 8: sl1, p24, (4 sts remain unworked) turn Row 9: sl1, k23, (4 sts remain unworked) turn Row 10: sl1, p22, (5 sts remain unworked) turn Row 11: sl1, k21, (5 sts remain unworked) turn Row 12: sl1, p20, (6 sts remain unworked) turn Row 13: sl1, k19, (6 sts remain unworked) turn Row 14: sl1, p18, (7 sts remain unworked) turn Row 15: sl1, k17, k enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn Row 16: sl1, p18, p enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn Row 17: sl1, k19, k enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn Row 18: sl1, p20, p enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn Row 19: sl1, k21, k enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn Row 20: sl1, p22, p enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn Row 21: sl1, k23, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn Row 22: sl1, p24, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn Row 23: sl1, k25, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn Row 24: sl1, p26, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn Row 25: sl1, k27, k enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn Row 26: sl1, p28, p enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn Row 27: sl1, k29, k enc, turn, Row 28: sl1, p30, p enc, turn, Row 29: sl1, k31, do not k enc, do not turn. Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y2 onto and resume working in the round. k16 and you should now be at the beginning of each round once again.

Head cont: Round 6: (k2tog tbl) 16 times. k16, (you should 32 stitches total) Round 7: knit Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches) Round 9: knit, Round 10: (k1, k2tog tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 stitches). You will now be working rounds of the neck and body.

Neck: Rounds 1-20: knit, (you can make up to 24 rounds if you want the neck slightly longer, but more than that might cause the little guy to tip over too much) Stuff the neck with fiber fill. Tamper filling until it reaches your desired firmness. Don’t stuff too full and don’t stuff up to the needles or you will end up with fibers in your knitting which are difficult to remove.

Body: Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where you will begin each round from now on. Round 1: (k4, KLL, k4) 3 times (27 stitches) Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, KRL, k9, KRL, k8, KLL, k5 (30 stitches) Round 4: k6. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches to be worked with the stitches on arm #2 so they can be worked together. While holding the body section as if you were going to continue knitting, pick up arm #2 so that you can see the purl side of the final row and place it in front of the stitches of the body section that are to be worked next. Back Consolidate (see instructions above). Now where you would have worked 9 stitches on the body, you have 18. (k2tog tbl) 9 times. Now attach arm #1 in the same manner as arm #2 but t his time use the front consolidation method (See instructions above). k6, Round 5: knit, Round 6: k5, KRL, k10, KLL k10, KLL, k5, (33 stitches) Round 7: knit, Round 8: k5, KRL, k11, KRL, k12, KLL, k5 (36 stitches) Round 9: knit, Round 10: k6, KRL, k12, KLL, k12, KLL, k6 (39 stitches) Round 11: knit, Round 12: k6, KRL, k13, KRL, k14, KLL, k6 (42 stitches) Round 13: knit, Round 14: (k7, KRL) twice, k5, KRL, k4, KLL, k5,(KLL, k7) twice (48 stitches) Round 15: knit, Round 16: (k8, KRL) twice, k6, KRL, k4, KLL, k6,(KLL, k8) twice (54 stitches) Round 17: knit, Round 18: (k9, KRL) twice, k6, KRL, k6, KLL, k6,(KLL, k9) twice (60 stitches). Here’s a good place to switch to your circular needle. Rounds 19-22: knit, (knit a total of 8 rounds here instead of 4 as patterns indicates. I don't want to renumber the rounds yet since this pattern is still in the testing phase and I don't want to cause confusion) Round 23: k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2(54 stitches). Now put this aside so that you can make the legs.

Legs (make 2): *With Y1 CO 24 stitches. Round 1: knit, join ends and continue to knit in the round. Round 2: (k4, inc 1, k4) 3 times. (27 stitches) Round 3: knit, Round 4: (k4, inc 1, k5) 3 times, (30 stitches) Round 5: knit Round 6: purl Round 7: knit Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches), Round 9: (k1, k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches) Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight and tie off on the purl side of your work. Do not stuff yet. Turn your work around so you that you are looking at the knit side and begin working with the cast on edge. Tie the new working yarn Y2 to the tail left from the cast on. Using the outside loop of each cast on stitch to pick up 24 stitches around the edge. Round 1: knit, Round 2: (k3, k2tog, k3) 3 times (21 stitches) Round 3: knit Round 4: (k2, k2tog, k3) 3 times (18 stitches) Rounds 5-24: knit (If you prefer not to count rows, you can just k360). Stuff with fiber-fill and close the arms using the Back Consolidation method (see stitch instructions), * you should now have all stitches on one needle, turn and p2tog across, leaving you with 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches) and label this leg #1 using a piece of tape. You’ll weave in loose ends once the arm is attached. For Leg #2 repeat from * to * turn and k2tog, again leaving you with 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come undone (approximately 6 inches) and label. Transfer this leg to the needle with Leg #1 on it, being sure that the purl side of the final row is facing you. This will be important when you attach them to the body.

Body cont.: Round 24: k17, add Leg #2, k2, add Leg #1, k17, Round 25: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48 stitches) Round 26: knit, Round 27: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times. (42 stitches) Round 28: knit, Round 29: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 (36 stitches) Round 30: knit Round 31: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion of the body until firm. Round 32: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches) Round 33: knit, Round 34: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches) Round 35: knit, Round 36: (k1, k2tog,) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the all stitches, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step since its closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Ear #1: Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn, Rows 2-3: knit, turn, Row 4: k3, KLL, k3, turn, (7 stitches), Row 5: knit, turn, Row 6: k4, KLL, k3, turn, (8 stitches), Row 7: knit, turn, Row 8: k4, KLL, k4, turn, (9 stitches), Row 9: knit, turn, Row 10: k5, KLL, k4, turn, (10 stitches), Rows 11-14: knit, turn, Rows 15-23: sl1, k1, PSSO, first stitch, knit to end. You should now have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.

Ear #2: Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn, Rows 2-3: knit, turn, Row 4: k3, KRL, k3, turn, (7 stitches), Row 5: knit, turn, Row 6: k3, KRL, k4, turn, (8 stitches), Row 7: knit, turn, Row 8: k4, KRL, k4, turn, (9 stitches), Row 9: knit, turn, Row 10: k4, KRL, k5, turn, (10 stitches), Rows 11-14: knit, turn, Rows 15-23: sl1, k1, PSSO, first stitch, knit to end. You should now have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.

Horns (make 2): With Y1, CO 4 and knit an I-cord for 24 stitches. The next step doules your stitches. *KFB in each stitch until you have 8 and then knit all stitches once*. Repeat this step until you have 16 stitches and have knitted them once. Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread a tapestry needle and slip each stitch from the knitting needle onto the tapestry needle. Pull tight and thread the tail through all stitches a couple more times pulling tight each time to be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off the tail, thread it down through the bulb on top of the horn, down through the shaft of the horn and out the other end. Use this to attach the horn to the head at top where you began working the encroachment during the head shaping. They will be spaced approximately ¾ inch apart and there will be a small space between the horns and the ears as well. Tie off any remaining ends.

Finishing: For the tail, cut three 12-24 inch strands of yarn, thread them through the back of the giraffe on the row just above where you began decreasing to finish him off. Braid and tie off so that it looks kind of like a little broom. Now embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first sock giraffe.